tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-74128466478185395222024-03-27T23:06:51.899-07:00Robert's ProjectsMy various projects that may be of interest to others.<b>
Dedicated to my brother Stan, Apr 16, 1955- Dec 4, 2010</b>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger49125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7412846647818539522.post-88939835865436629312017-07-31T14:35:00.000-07:002019-04-26T04:26:07.639-07:00Aus Jena Jenapol Interphako Polarisationsmikroskope Shearing Interference Microscope<div class="MsoNormal">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkKYcRZ1bF5nDVR6j9IUC-tAmXgKhrxArva6WWve_2POpG5mTKGCKWWnNi_dAgnuDDKElEBbdkzeGfK7O1jUZrIkV84EZv9SBH6C1setl8LROyl4UtPPaJMYVg5Bhfhg2aoNWvd3Ldhz4/s1600/Jenapol.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="404" data-original-width="716" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkKYcRZ1bF5nDVR6j9IUC-tAmXgKhrxArva6WWve_2POpG5mTKGCKWWnNi_dAgnuDDKElEBbdkzeGfK7O1jUZrIkV84EZv9SBH6C1setl8LROyl4UtPPaJMYVg5Bhfhg2aoNWvd3Ldhz4/s320/Jenapol.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The Aus Jena
Jenapol shearing interference microscope is a rare instrument that was built in
the 1980’s in what was then East Germany.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>At the time we purchased ours, we were told that there were only about
10 of these in the United States, and we had two of them.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Shearing
interference microscopes work by splitting the image and then recombining the
two images slightly out of phase.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
two images can be both spatially offset, and offset in phase as desired.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For evaluation of polymer optical waveguides,
we typically offset the two images 50 microns in the horizontal direction.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We then adjusted the optics to produce
fringes with a period of approximately 25 microns. The spacing of the period is
not critical, since the observed offset in the fringes changes
proportionally.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We therefore adjusted
the fringe period to best observe the details we were most interested in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The fringe spacing can also be adjusted to
infinity, and produce dark and light areas representing variations in
refractive index. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<!--StartFragment-->
<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12.0pt;"> An optical waveguide viewed under an ordinary microscope
reveals little information about itself.
Below is an image of a multimode 1x2 splitter. </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHT6pRNyfKRtLc7YZWR0XRM-knceQR9WC4fVHsnhkSSZdPwssFmFNPab8QdEdTBOOq_uBOyCd76scMs672dkc390oLmg470NIK1lVU68o9ZRt60Xx2dAOeBmpuUCTEYqL58Nnr9xcGv58/s1600/1x2MM+splitter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="274" data-original-width="715" height="122" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHT6pRNyfKRtLc7YZWR0XRM-knceQR9WC4fVHsnhkSSZdPwssFmFNPab8QdEdTBOOq_uBOyCd76scMs672dkc390oLmg470NIK1lVU68o9ZRt60Xx2dAOeBmpuUCTEYqL58Nnr9xcGv58/s320/1x2MM+splitter.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span>The dimensions can be accurately measured, and any defects
can be observed, but no information regarding the performance characteristics
of the waveguide can be detected.<!--EndFragment--><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3UXX-EpNiN_pp5jkcXWrnso-wZt0YWnixejd5tDTqeXjns_lw_QxZuRzI6swr4MdFws2cWsaG4Ji1xx6OUmMS7sNrRtK1nzqMtbV9y4N6Gzoaznuu356A4_q1AnAiPwgZLFb_sDQQNWM/s1600/fringes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="179" data-original-width="469" height="122" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3UXX-EpNiN_pp5jkcXWrnso-wZt0YWnixejd5tDTqeXjns_lw_QxZuRzI6swr4MdFws2cWsaG4Ji1xx6OUmMS7sNrRtK1nzqMtbV9y4N6Gzoaznuu356A4_q1AnAiPwgZLFb_sDQQNWM/s320/fringes.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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the Jenapol, a considerable amount of formerly invisible information is
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Equally useful, the variations
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</span>This was very useful in our research to develop planar waveguides with a
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Below are two waveguides that appeared the same under a
conventional microscope: The left image has fringes with a round profile while
the right has a flat top profile. These profiles provide an accurate indication
of how the waveguide will operate without having to actually test the
waveguide.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The waveguides were
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When features are too
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Another application
for the Jenapol is identifying stresses inside a transparent material.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The following photos are of a glass fiber
inserted into a polymer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Under a
conventional microscope, it looked perfect. However, the Jenapol revealed
considerable distortion caused by the fiber adhesive diffusing into the
polymer.<o:p></o:p></div>
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</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Interference picture of a singlemode fiber. The fiber is surrounded by index matching fluid to reduce distortions created by the round fiber cladding. To completely eliminate the distortions, an index fluid perfectly matched to the index of the fiber clad must be used.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVzVoAGf-KI8DYx0es5aR_AqXWKbs-MEurzGA8-tGZa8TjiCrLxHt370ElvfH4Xsme0aK3zt4BqD6ADZE7FEma8oWpH-dwZcjbc3kHMD0ituPxgK2DOh-StQmjt7qRMfM1mNhBgX4ybeg/s1600/2+core+fringe+1+visible.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1409" data-original-width="1600" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVzVoAGf-KI8DYx0es5aR_AqXWKbs-MEurzGA8-tGZa8TjiCrLxHt370ElvfH4Xsme0aK3zt4BqD6ADZE7FEma8oWpH-dwZcjbc3kHMD0ituPxgK2DOh-StQmjt7qRMfM1mNhBgX4ybeg/s320/2+core+fringe+1+visible.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Same fiber without interference.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXq3osNkGWFNGx8-g0TjzgJ6wM5KhDNMtuFPROzSEnbYWF6DNyMxsguFeWklnrV2zqaBhVmBwaTXxy3fbrMzrD5JvRdM146HPLzHkFraOfBmzlz9BH9NiWPbOoouT6bYgpjrVrhMNFm1k/s1600/2+core+1+visible.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1300" data-original-width="1600" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXq3osNkGWFNGx8-g0TjzgJ6wM5KhDNMtuFPROzSEnbYWF6DNyMxsguFeWklnrV2zqaBhVmBwaTXxy3fbrMzrD5JvRdM146HPLzHkFraOfBmzlz9BH9NiWPbOoouT6bYgpjrVrhMNFm1k/s320/2+core+1+visible.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The shearing interference microscope can be a
great asset to photonics R&D in ways that were probably not envisioned by
the microscope’s designer over 30 years ago. <o:p></o:p><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjcmbFRWa1vPYcCVRhi5tplZepYZU2Jn0aAcVEzQku0PkE0l-mRWinXEFTKp_EZjRtkjY2tH464crmfuQpWDFct4KIwpYEPGn-v7pBFTKiRXlk7AS6EQqmRXF2JurbSyaNBT5b1kwsW5c/s1600/Cyclops.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjcmbFRWa1vPYcCVRhi5tplZepYZU2Jn0aAcVEzQku0PkE0l-mRWinXEFTKp_EZjRtkjY2tH464crmfuQpWDFct4KIwpYEPGn-v7pBFTKiRXlk7AS6EQqmRXF2JurbSyaNBT5b1kwsW5c/s400/Cyclops.jpg" width="225" /></a></div>
I restored a Jenapol for my personal lab, and developed a great appreciation for the fine engineering and workmanship that went into these microscopes. This Jenapol had been used as a parts donor, and had a few missing and broken pieces. The eyepiece assembly was gone, so I machined a monocular eyepiece tube that uses readily available WILD eyepieces. Unlike many other microscopes, there are features that can only be used while viewing through the eyepiece, and are not visible through the camera port. In addition, the optics required at the camera port are not the same as the eyepiece port. At the camera port, I am using a Kodak universal microscope adapter with a homemade 7mm to C mount adapter made from a Zeiss microscope part. However while this assembly fits on the eyepiece port, the optics are completely wrong, and it does not work. The WILD eyepiece works well, but the adapter tube length is critical. Otherwise the internal crosshair is out of focus.<br />
Later I found a Nikon binocular assembly and discovered that Jena eyepieces fit it perfectly. I machined an adapter to attach the Nikon part to the microscope. The modification performs as well as the original part. The monocular assembly is still useful for installing a camera, or using my Nikon eyepiece micrometer.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpWuPEdU-_2iBgCsHZJ3_Jdru6PKRXHEBvk5-Ta8g2uqgLoK5La3kYZ9CVD2CrtgUpJ9nelHBeCq8YwcrC0cLIrG5rs91x4RDBgjyFhj5CYfcSqETJ4yZl7NhlKNuzrVnduGcvLWLNIQc/s1600/20171007_132237.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1396" data-original-width="1600" height="279" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpWuPEdU-_2iBgCsHZJ3_Jdru6PKRXHEBvk5-Ta8g2uqgLoK5La3kYZ9CVD2CrtgUpJ9nelHBeCq8YwcrC0cLIrG5rs91x4RDBgjyFhj5CYfcSqETJ4yZl7NhlKNuzrVnduGcvLWLNIQc/s320/20171007_132237.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGw4NzTi1_Rma1YXBjyMTURNHCCLx4l3Me1bMZHP-sDRAdVmZYjm1DHwO60rKvrnQa-ZBFNBJ7I-cvHo4VBnnYg3sVW4nF_9J8Ix3nQqsLqZi98sDQzVUkBSh8frzDDzmcb_lUVH6mLfQ/s1600/20171007_144307.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1171" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGw4NzTi1_Rma1YXBjyMTURNHCCLx4l3Me1bMZHP-sDRAdVmZYjm1DHwO60rKvrnQa-ZBFNBJ7I-cvHo4VBnnYg3sVW4nF_9J8Ix3nQqsLqZi98sDQzVUkBSh8frzDDzmcb_lUVH6mLfQ/s320/20171007_144307.jpg" width="234" /></a></div>
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The next thing I did was eliminate the unreliable and expensive mercury arc light source. Here I used an inexpensive automotive HID headlamp conversion kit. At only 55 watts, it matches the brightness of the 250 watt mercury lamp. I believe that the smaller arc length in the HID lamp allows for more efficient coupling of the light. Here is a picture of the light projected onto a cardboard box. At this level of beam expansion, the intensity is brighter than noontime sunshine.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjubC5LSMrurKJA1wZatcVwvgeh9VL19w_KRo4KXtmdx9rOTPnTVDPP4-Q0Xq4je4djHJhdL-uj8GIQGNj-c3aD_tUSWjymYmYV1ibI4ov_JOk8bEWurHR3E3pYkE-2joCJBHaTVb7t2Rc/s1600/Light+source+cardboard+box.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1416" data-original-width="1591" height="284" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjubC5LSMrurKJA1wZatcVwvgeh9VL19w_KRo4KXtmdx9rOTPnTVDPP4-Q0Xq4je4djHJhdL-uj8GIQGNj-c3aD_tUSWjymYmYV1ibI4ov_JOk8bEWurHR3E3pYkE-2joCJBHaTVb7t2Rc/s320/Light+source+cardboard+box.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
The lamp runs on 12 volts, and allowed me to replace the large mercury are power supply with this compact 12 volt, 20 amp supply, which I bolted to the lamp housing.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjRhzOmY9ETQdNwwjMOwpfI70fv3j9m9ZcpD4EAeE7UnbHo_nohGQCwkjue1Ir3pX5ZXHSJ4dro6ANAPt1qor6x5lsZUKCep0klDJMw0MVRRRpbDyp4f7xlj8obKxJg9n4-TzmUgooraA/s1600/Lamp+power+supply.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjRhzOmY9ETQdNwwjMOwpfI70fv3j9m9ZcpD4EAeE7UnbHo_nohGQCwkjue1Ir3pX5ZXHSJ4dro6ANAPt1qor6x5lsZUKCep0klDJMw0MVRRRpbDyp4f7xlj8obKxJg9n4-TzmUgooraA/s320/Lamp+power+supply.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
The broadband HID lamp works well with my 551nm filter and polarizer.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga3fdQ-8g89NtOEFQ6ckk166O4z9-iOmWGENh2ZT8mDqSBjf1f4i_V2tKtcZUI9hjOIr7dIpv01lURCEkckrNyr8lwGFQ4RjWWxlMs-E5MLsmZ7s70PrPuy8yo_l1VBVj_oGPxp7CIQ5s/s1600/green+filter+light.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga3fdQ-8g89NtOEFQ6ckk166O4z9-iOmWGENh2ZT8mDqSBjf1f4i_V2tKtcZUI9hjOIr7dIpv01lURCEkckrNyr8lwGFQ4RjWWxlMs-E5MLsmZ7s70PrPuy8yo_l1VBVj_oGPxp7CIQ5s/s320/green+filter+light.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-uCRVgLg5trHhHtrJw6O5M9zom295frEfVEVj0dlUl3eDBG7CqNPITwdpjy5caAVA9WVgn2Wb4DfzyaXiMju-r8Qz79mUpv7Ncn9ZOGr43iYRZoS5OVkwOXblC5HNd9CZp65po9cGDHc/s1600/Eyepiece+camera+adapter+assembled.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="805" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-uCRVgLg5trHhHtrJw6O5M9zom295frEfVEVj0dlUl3eDBG7CqNPITwdpjy5caAVA9WVgn2Wb4DfzyaXiMju-r8Qz79mUpv7Ncn9ZOGr43iYRZoS5OVkwOXblC5HNd9CZp65po9cGDHc/s320/Eyepiece+camera+adapter+assembled.jpg" width="161" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8JXEVl1zXKbHen9qirnWiGqXgYokvmVRtxKS4010pAzQWds88SK4y4dy_NRNkqr4P9sZxvwZXxtQgak9pNEKWSn75qhvC6_RlRXofdOpeXtQmhZg_XtOVsaR80JEt55Vi9BulL5b-Gg0/s1600/Monocular+eyepiece1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1173" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8JXEVl1zXKbHen9qirnWiGqXgYokvmVRtxKS4010pAzQWds88SK4y4dy_NRNkqr4P9sZxvwZXxtQgak9pNEKWSn75qhvC6_RlRXofdOpeXtQmhZg_XtOVsaR80JEt55Vi9BulL5b-Gg0/s320/Monocular+eyepiece1.jpg" width="234" /></a>My monocular eyepiece can be fitted with either WILD eyepieces or a WILD c-mount camera adapter. This is very useful, for when the Jenapol was conceived, readily available electronic vision systems did not yet exist. As a result, most Jenapol operations are done using the eyepieces, and the camera port is merely for taking photographs. Unlike many microscopes, the camera port and eyepiece port take unique optical paths, and some features, like the polarizartion analyzer, are not viewable through the camera port. Additionally, the camera port and eyepiece port have different focal lengths, and are not interchangeable. Therefore, one cannot simply take the camera from the camera port and put it on the eyepiece port, even though it will fit. It will be completely out of focus. <br />
<br />
I designed my monocular eyepiece to be in focus using either a WILD eyepiece or camera adapter. Now I can put a camera on either port if I desire. At right: Eyepiece tube with modified WILD camera adapter. Below: Exploded view of the camera adapter.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGdR36-eOHKl8ZfrgYvrKeFHmuZBn2Tiq9J6eOcxSMIatOeBOxGQChyMs85gh73tuUfi8fn8_1wYjqzWSht0FMXCAnEH42GwLA1snuF7jMMmiGqZYloMXXwzHqhgdB8BXkmxMrlZyasXA/s1600/Eyepiece+camera+adapter+exploded.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGdR36-eOHKl8ZfrgYvrKeFHmuZBn2Tiq9J6eOcxSMIatOeBOxGQChyMs85gh73tuUfi8fn8_1wYjqzWSht0FMXCAnEH42GwLA1snuF7jMMmiGqZYloMXXwzHqhgdB8BXkmxMrlZyasXA/s320/Eyepiece+camera+adapter+exploded.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The modified Kodak Universal Adapter: This works extremely well, with a highly uniform image.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA1jum2WOYIO1ZlbkAP0y6QY3E9me7Kn5QAdvIvWeVkAGcpLVu-nn0wkfqE9pfC1RalaArgaBfUHOZseSuWwJeN9MmZ_I-h1h2GfnT6E9nNuXuDGPvEuXqckqcBB15AG46nMhbd6fo_q0/s1600/Kodak+adapter+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="961" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA1jum2WOYIO1ZlbkAP0y6QY3E9me7Kn5QAdvIvWeVkAGcpLVu-nn0wkfqE9pfC1RalaArgaBfUHOZseSuWwJeN9MmZ_I-h1h2GfnT6E9nNuXuDGPvEuXqckqcBB15AG46nMhbd6fo_q0/s320/Kodak+adapter+2.jpg" width="192" /></a></div>
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Many parts of this microscope were seized up, for the grease Aus Jena used appears to turn solid after 30+ years. The lamp adjustment shaft seized and snapped off, and I had to make a repair. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzjuXEqsY0e6YcetWWpnrhWZo9LXTCWaYWNgtLGdxXo-G7wWtipcFNPYaK8dnS1iWGXTf97QAB3eOoYC1PIidn0RyxVwNvAiLN_14p6aMh9M8niqbW6LFuCzOuS20DakU1DyYUj74cdXY/s1600/Snapped+bolt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzjuXEqsY0e6YcetWWpnrhWZo9LXTCWaYWNgtLGdxXo-G7wWtipcFNPYaK8dnS1iWGXTf97QAB3eOoYC1PIidn0RyxVwNvAiLN_14p6aMh9M8niqbW6LFuCzOuS20DakU1DyYUj74cdXY/s320/Snapped+bolt.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
I found this easily accomplished by drilling and tapping the shaft, and then using a 3mm screw to replace the broken portion. This is as strong as the original part.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyYOSIlZQ8kY7_da5idwh1vZVBdN7GTN00-gOOVROr4d2oVknP32hBNbdpNKwHuI2G34er82Xo2vm3BOJm9ilZWGwT1D3mwnOhcAmCHNHE4GynQqb0IDtLVDm8khJ-zfOKk3G3xSRraVc/s1600/Snapped+bolt+repair.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyYOSIlZQ8kY7_da5idwh1vZVBdN7GTN00-gOOVROr4d2oVknP32hBNbdpNKwHuI2G34er82Xo2vm3BOJm9ilZWGwT1D3mwnOhcAmCHNHE4GynQqb0IDtLVDm8khJ-zfOKk3G3xSRraVc/s320/Snapped+bolt+repair.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
I have written an English language instruction manual for the Interphako, and I am working on lamp conversion instructions and a maintenance & repair manual. </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
I have also translated a very useful book published by Jena on interference microscopy.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
If there is any interest in these topics, please contact me.</div>
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Jenapol Instruction and Operation Manual translated to English. My user manual is more than a simple translation. It is enhanced by combining several sources of information, plus knowledge gained from my 30 years of experience in using this microscope. As a result, it is far superior and more informative then the original manual. </div>
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Price for both books is $60. </div>
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Interference Microscopy Principles and Applications translated into English.</div>
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A friend gave me a 1948 Trans-Oceanic radio. It was in poor condition on the outside, and while it looked good inside, the radio did not work. While I have considerable experience with conventional tube radios, the battery Zenith stymied me at first. Troubleshooting these is complicated by several things. Here is my list of what makes a Trans-Oceanic more difficult.<br />
<br />
1: 1.2 volt tube filaments do not exhibit a visible glow. This is by far the easiest thing to check on an conventional radio.<br />
2: The tube filaments are in a series string. You must have a complete set of tubes to do any troubleshooting, and removal of an individual tube to isolate a problem is not possible. In fact, removing and replacing a tube may blow the filament if the capacitors are still charged.<br />
3: Being directly heated tubes, the filament circuit must also create the proper grid bias voltages. Being directly heated and series string makes this even more complicated.<br />
4: Since the tubes operate as such low voltages and currents, supplying proper voltages to the tubes is critical. They are much more intolerant of low heater voltages than conventional tubes, especially if the tubes are weak.<br />
5: The above difficulties are compounded by the added complexity of the shortwave circuits and the AC/DC/Battery power supply.<br />
<br />
To gain a better understanding of the radio, and to better appreciate the fine engineering that went into it, I decided to study it and create separate schematics for each major circuit.<br />
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Here is the B+ supply: Included in this schematic are the plate and grid bias circuits powered by the B+ supply. Only the components needed to deliver the B+ voltages to the tubes are highlighted. There is a high B+ of 90 volts, and a low B+ of 76 volts. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGFm6YsDvhON3ReoLo2TylcCkR4jon33yKXvYRQyM5lAN49kGdhG42uF81Q2jqzOx9PhLbMIZ7MzoqYKn9v9tTLwDPBfgfZDrV7J8lvT_SG5O5LVUX-26DhMJYUDXGhkcE82dC_TonMs4/s1600/B+supply.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="468" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGFm6YsDvhON3ReoLo2TylcCkR4jon33yKXvYRQyM5lAN49kGdhG42uF81Q2jqzOx9PhLbMIZ7MzoqYKn9v9tTLwDPBfgfZDrV7J8lvT_SG5O5LVUX-26DhMJYUDXGhkcE82dC_TonMs4/s640/B+supply.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The filament circuit. Included are the grid bias circuits, including the grid biases derived from the AGC circuit. Included are the filament voltages you will see at each tube when using a 10.5 volt source. </div>
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<img border="0" height="468" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit_Ft-rQQ9Th33mAXDZVnixRiPHOkPR5rXxAUllOzqGtKiSzUPux02o6P0-Z2bhVEbSoA5tRwAN_CFlgKwHZiZKOBkrbvOmttzODrhgq5JT2ig7SvoNfwddNng0aweSoGSKHOLO1Y3kOo/s640/filament+bias+agc.jpg" width="640" />Here is the AGC circuit by itself. The AGC controls the gain of the mixer tube in the Broadcast position only. In any of the shortwave bands, the mixer operates at a fixed gain. The band switch is shown in the Broadcast position. </div>
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The RF, IF and Audio signal circuits, stripped down the the bare minimum to illustrate how the signal passes through the radio. Only the Broadcast position is shown.</div>
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The Oscillator circuit is by far the most complicated, and the most intolerant of weak tubes, batteries or other components. I believe all troubleshooting should be done using batteries or a very good bench top power supply. The radio's AC supply should be used sparingly, and only after replacing the capacitors, and adding Zener diodes to protect the tubes. The original AC supply simply is not very good. In addition, it is not the safest, for there is no isolation from the mains. A shock hazard is present, especially if there are leaky capacitors. </div>
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Please note that the tuner has its own isolated ground circuit. The paper capacitors in my radio were leaky and the tuner ground was elevated a few volts above the chassis ground. </div>
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Here is the Oscillator in Broadcast mode.</div>
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The Oscillator in SW mode. The other SW positions are similar. </div>
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The complete circuit:</div>
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The separated circuits are good for illustrating that many components are part of multiple circuits. The IF transformers, for example, carry not only signals, but also B+ voltages and AGC voltages. Here, the signal paths are given priority over the other functions. </div>
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The case restoration:</div>
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The cabinet looked like a mouse chewed on it. Not only was the vinyl coated cloth gone, some of the wood was chewed too. </div>
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I patched the chewed areas with nylon cloth and JB Weld epoxy. After the epoxy cured, I trimmed the cloth and sanded the patches. </div>
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After the epoxy cured, I painted everything with satin finish black paint. The patches are now only visible under close inspection. The most noticeable difference is that the texture of the patches does not match the original finish. But it looks good. </div>
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The radio is an excellent performer on batteries, and just OK using the AC supply. When on AC, the filament voltage is less than 10 volts, and the B+ is greater than 90 volts. The low filament voltage is enough to make a noticeable difference in the gain of the tubes. Occasionally, the oscillator quits when using shortwave and the AC supply. It is very sensitive to changes in voltage.<br />
I tested the radio at various line voltages, and here is what I found:<br />
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Minimum reliable working voltage on shortwave bands: 124.5
vac</b></div>
<b>
</b><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Voltage at which shortwave does not work at all:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>121.2 vac</b></div>
<b>
</b><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>A and B supplies at 124.5 vac:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>9.7vdc, 94.5vdc (high B) and 88.8vdc (low B)</b></div>
<b>
</b><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>A and B supplies at 121.2 vac:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>9.43vdc, 93vdc (high B) and 86.5vdc (low B)</b></div>
<b>
</b><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<b>
</b><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Voltages on 1LA4 tube:</b></div>
<b>
</b><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<b>
</b><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>On batteries:<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>At
124.5vac<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></b></div>
<b>
</b><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<b>
</b><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>1: 6.2vdc (1.55v cathode voltage)<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>1:
5.7vdc (1.4v cathode voltage)</b></div>
<b>
</b><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>2:90.1vdc<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>2:
89.9vdc</b></div>
<b>
</b><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>3: 81.1vdc<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>3:
80.8vdc</b></div>
<b>
</b><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>4: 1.3 vdc (-5.4v relative to cathode center)<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>4:
4.6vdc (zero relative to cathode)</b></div>
<b>
</b><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>5: 53.9vdc<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>5:
52.7vdc</b></div>
<b>
</b><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>6: 4.65vdc<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>6:
4.3vdc</b></div>
<b>
</b><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>7: 4.65vdc<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>7:
4.3vdc</b></div>
<b>
</b><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>8: 4.65vdc<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>8:
4.3vdc</b></div>
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In the above test, the oscillator is not working on the shortwave bands when using the AC supply. Oscillator operation can be verified by looking at pin 4 of the tube. If the oscillator is working, pin 4 is negative compared to the cathode voltage. When the oscillator quits, the voltage on pin 4 rises to equal the cathode voltage.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7412846647818539522.post-89082241860999917962016-01-22T12:11:00.000-08:002016-01-27T05:34:55.836-08:00My precision alignment tools for aligining optical waveguides<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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One of my jobs is assembling polymer optical waveguides in packages which will then connect accurately to MT format fiber optic ferrules. Below is one example. I installed 4 waveguides on this board with ferrules to connect to ribbon fibers with MT ferrules. A ribbon fiber is installed on one of them. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsNpDMBP2jlXWMIzVAzSZtuRrT9JcrqWBV7u1a_fPVGK4rRRWShURFwc86ZLIrjZXy5zkI8dmntADxt-_tz-CUkjQYMFZFDBUUZW9cN-2fd2l69_Yt8cP3xrQV7SZzn4Vw9ixMco0JaA4/s1600/NEC1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="307" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsNpDMBP2jlXWMIzVAzSZtuRrT9JcrqWBV7u1a_fPVGK4rRRWShURFwc86ZLIrjZXy5zkI8dmntADxt-_tz-CUkjQYMFZFDBUUZW9cN-2fd2l69_Yt8cP3xrQV7SZzn4Vw9ixMco0JaA4/s400/NEC1.jpg" width="400" /> </a></div>
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I often make small waveguides with fibers connected on both sides. Below are some of those wave guides. They are 10mm long, but will be trimmed to 8mm when complete. The extra 2mm aids in assembly and alignment.</div>
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<img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipX8Le7gNC8RLB9O4QwzYaMNnYcIPT2GD-vtZciH_54hn5SnjvBrdO4x58mpeh1t3s5KySx85n-Uus_PGcJpT4MaErG2H18zLeocUwxHn-gsh1DkV744P6iExg4Y1STtJzLm9lDueuvwY/s320/20150617_150721.jpg" width="299" /></div>
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To work efficiently, the waveguides must be accurately aligned between the pins to ±1 micron. In large volumes, we laser cut the parts to fit with micron precision. However, in small volumes, it is more cost effective to cut them manually, and then align them under a microscope. In the picture below you can see the waveguides inside the plastic sheet. I designed an alignment tool to position the waveguides and hold them while the epoxy cures. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMOjXBwmNGeljbxlntdbIqIKcV522zo3pNN5lecH-l1nqq_F5EV34RdjKgnRufgjDjQQy0QMp8NRKR7AcBazjP7UO9aiSzOAaG4laO596ROhIszfrX_StSkBWj6DjceLq2CPp5iRsWL7o/s1600/Alignment+closeup2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0dpt6fPBgywkvV8Ub9WF09vE_K3E6csWR0LDI7Gb_Agh0tMr7Jehls-fhm0LgYZh8XCyWSn-NGtIdf4ksWFQY1S1CiJ08olcWj96MGU4Gtmv-kcISlr9oIKzmje0uTFZSlDWVcakiJkY/s400/Alignment+closeup2.jpg" width="400" /> </a></div>
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The tool works by gripping the waveguide film with a pair of sharp points which are then moved to position the film accurately. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidTffZVcrPPWAewTgdev0u5w8312KSdMR3POYIrWKmiUKwcyLysW2E0mMGfoQoDXBNYw7hrYFWkIDjWJgIgXiqISQ3Ilx6OU7e9dZV85_1YiBb9hPBLbsIsxnj-i_nVU3xlaTfZ5NVvII/s1600/Alignment+closeup.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidTffZVcrPPWAewTgdev0u5w8312KSdMR3POYIrWKmiUKwcyLysW2E0mMGfoQoDXBNYw7hrYFWkIDjWJgIgXiqISQ3Ilx6OU7e9dZV85_1YiBb9hPBLbsIsxnj-i_nVU3xlaTfZ5NVvII/s400/Alignment+closeup.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
After the epoxy is cured, the pins are removed and the ends of the waveguides are trimmed and polished on machines<a href="http://robertsprojects.blogspot.com/2014/03/my-fiber-optic-polishing-machine.html" target="_blank"> I modified to better suit my requirements</a>.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgowUXPR6HD6jlD_DY-GDARDYxO3AKRt22ejgMCSIQevxn9v142PrD67oGUI6TXOgYoF___mWf9gy33K_TeDpAUnj0QhO4ucUwQ5ezlk2AcRmwqbd7Xj_CjQaRgCyO1UG0rsAJgA5pXofI/s1600/ferrule.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="187" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgowUXPR6HD6jlD_DY-GDARDYxO3AKRt22ejgMCSIQevxn9v142PrD67oGUI6TXOgYoF___mWf9gy33K_TeDpAUnj0QhO4ucUwQ5ezlk2AcRmwqbd7Xj_CjQaRgCyO1UG0rsAJgA5pXofI/s400/ferrule.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
Here is a close-up view of the end of the waveguides. This is from a part that I connected fibers to using an MT ferrule. I epoxied the parts together and then separated them after testing was complete. The circles were created by the fibers, and serve as proof that the alignment was good.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5p_t1yLXsi6KiLFCpacg6iBfGxHEIs0zbM3fpoYXjxMNYdy3qodQAaebTFMrA5bg1I2f6Aq6T_Kh_neySWpkeBkizx1h_A4VsGkWYhc-c9s2zfmFuQMPV5Or7LHlvNJ774rSeKQQwYNU/s1600/proof+of+good+alignment.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5p_t1yLXsi6KiLFCpacg6iBfGxHEIs0zbM3fpoYXjxMNYdy3qodQAaebTFMrA5bg1I2f6Aq6T_Kh_neySWpkeBkizx1h_A4VsGkWYhc-c9s2zfmFuQMPV5Or7LHlvNJ774rSeKQQwYNU/s400/proof+of+good+alignment.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here is the tool. In the first picture, the clamp is lowered to hold the waveguide assembly in place, and in the second picture the clamp is raised so that the finished part may be removed.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI6_ljy2wy8DS9TSubAA47vRQ0VNPy3_RaCriBw72TiijKuUClbcg_d-9SnZvO8VlYaO9-OKgfk6WyrcjcOtPtD85aeaOJzRsOvowhuhy_eJqMaLUyG9xDyZHkSfR26wzZkDKl-rp4_BU/s1600/DSCN4108.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI6_ljy2wy8DS9TSubAA47vRQ0VNPy3_RaCriBw72TiijKuUClbcg_d-9SnZvO8VlYaO9-OKgfk6WyrcjcOtPtD85aeaOJzRsOvowhuhy_eJqMaLUyG9xDyZHkSfR26wzZkDKl-rp4_BU/s400/DSCN4108.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The tool has 4 adjustments. The two knobs on the sides move the points in and out to grip or release the film, while the two micrometer knobs are used to position the film in between the pins.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGzsbyikSaGKcJf7SaYaO0Jzb9c6zP_N0_ppsyCgLVH2sRIfwNhOgrY1KQbaUOl8VEObVNRWpTWvBtdjEP0loUEU0Ir9boBgu14TpdStyRXi5gyPNQEK6wArMdjzpBxaWR5ebGdVm_8Lg/s1600/20150618_134130.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGzsbyikSaGKcJf7SaYaO0Jzb9c6zP_N0_ppsyCgLVH2sRIfwNhOgrY1KQbaUOl8VEObVNRWpTWvBtdjEP0loUEU0Ir9boBgu14TpdStyRXi5gyPNQEK6wArMdjzpBxaWR5ebGdVm_8Lg/s400/20150618_134130.jpg" width="400" /> </a></div>
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Alignment is done visually using a Wild macroscope equipped with a translation stage with digital readouts. With care, accuracy of ±1 micron can be achieved.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSxnjhP2ehMvVfw8Nwhq6q71EBX36nmiKezWx1r9XxhkGR6RwbFo8Nd0BOBX7q_7x7jatZH8JLT8ro4M9oku0n__Betsb7l-2PbHaaRsmesgksxlWGioYKwe7_d4voeU-CF0DF-QWH-vE/s1600/macroscope1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSxnjhP2ehMvVfw8Nwhq6q71EBX36nmiKezWx1r9XxhkGR6RwbFo8Nd0BOBX7q_7x7jatZH8JLT8ro4M9oku0n__Betsb7l-2PbHaaRsmesgksxlWGioYKwe7_d4voeU-CF0DF-QWH-vE/s400/macroscope1.JPG" width="298" /> </a></div>
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The alignment tools fit in a base designed to hold the tools accurately, even when removed and replaced. This permits a higher volume of parts to be assembled, as multiple tools can be placed under the microscope, aligned, and then removed while the epoxy cures.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgff7QCUXvO9FUqNqUyfIPVU-41v_-Ob4DKpTwAv4Uy_yY43gKmzSXCZCqNhJl-9junbUIyviX_Wvx1FMFQWHiIf3n-HLQpbXywKGgaqCgDCau9EotQ28cfBGWBunK17s3XQi2aZB2b-t0/s1600/20150617_171232.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgff7QCUXvO9FUqNqUyfIPVU-41v_-Ob4DKpTwAv4Uy_yY43gKmzSXCZCqNhJl-9junbUIyviX_Wvx1FMFQWHiIf3n-HLQpbXywKGgaqCgDCau9EotQ28cfBGWBunK17s3XQi2aZB2b-t0/s400/20150617_171232.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Daily throughput is increased by making multiple copies of the tools, which are easy to reproduce. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjugatlk2LBNG61eRsbzLK7TETi3GEQ1BEWPTq1NSol3a-FD62DK_5JJGImFYnBoNMtyY8dLTavDqdWJuZeOWaDThrdN2s-Qg3jBd4NkOYTgDUc-1T1cM0gOGew1dwXdX1Sn0hL4i9zumc/s1600/DSCN4107.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjugatlk2LBNG61eRsbzLK7TETi3GEQ1BEWPTq1NSol3a-FD62DK_5JJGImFYnBoNMtyY8dLTavDqdWJuZeOWaDThrdN2s-Qg3jBd4NkOYTgDUc-1T1cM0gOGew1dwXdX1Sn0hL4i9zumc/s400/DSCN4107.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
These are a good example of the accuracy that is possible on a modified Harbor Freight (Seig) Mini Mill. Each bottom plate has 18 counter bored 4-40 holes, and the parts attached to the bottom plates have threaded 4-40 holes. All of the parts are accurate to within ±.025mm, and are interchangeable. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg15VFGTSjX3moGRk-2CLecqVdVViiYTaZINRlI_4ZaBTkFB4giyPEuObh542zEnm8XE3eNwTbuGS6CnYt5_DRp7AtrQcHTtJw8CVlkt_B9AI3SV_4W7TQGQST7oXrA3blnvcMLcq3YVYM/s1600/IMG_5693.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg15VFGTSjX3moGRk-2CLecqVdVViiYTaZINRlI_4ZaBTkFB4giyPEuObh542zEnm8XE3eNwTbuGS6CnYt5_DRp7AtrQcHTtJw8CVlkt_B9AI3SV_4W7TQGQST7oXrA3blnvcMLcq3YVYM/s400/IMG_5693.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The <a href="http://robertsprojects.blogspot.com/2010/02/mini-mill-modifications-shumatech-dro.html" target="_blank">modified Harbor Freight Mini Mill</a>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_HlBd-KP7KViMw5B6ZIqzK-QFbqeS0hSW5Z_BryY21HSTlERtTx0fnEoHswsocwChhQBzWst3elphtole4WOy6C68zvIwV2C4RuenwbVXVCNA85EMBoJOanBjGJGMVys5CpW0zOfmyfs/s1600/IMG_0209.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_HlBd-KP7KViMw5B6ZIqzK-QFbqeS0hSW5Z_BryY21HSTlERtTx0fnEoHswsocwChhQBzWst3elphtole4WOy6C68zvIwV2C4RuenwbVXVCNA85EMBoJOanBjGJGMVys5CpW0zOfmyfs/s320/IMG_0209.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
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I developed another set of tools to align optical waveguides to VCSELS and detectors. Here is an array of 4 detectors coupled to a polymer waveguide with a mirror on the end. This technique uses a unique active alignment scheme that did not require the circuit to be powered up.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1k9-T-Sob2B59mQF2K6xUF7gc99O6GnWNTlehM3_MkJSoikhm22Ey_gSw7YKA7uVP7DO8BQIyDApxs2DIK__3RnAg4MFDKCAgA1QHz7EDZ1Hqf_OrREWqg46t32MhgrEx2NMC3pMllMU/s1600/DSCN3275.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1k9-T-Sob2B59mQF2K6xUF7gc99O6GnWNTlehM3_MkJSoikhm22Ey_gSw7YKA7uVP7DO8BQIyDApxs2DIK__3RnAg4MFDKCAgA1QHz7EDZ1Hqf_OrREWqg46t32MhgrEx2NMC3pMllMU/s320/DSCN3275.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSU1k3cUiBud93eqeyQTDVhInAKNsgxvjzdtV_2Xy9PXQYe8EjnuyEW3sbOlcygNQpl_KnPYs0a4cna7Jt-qDkDdFnGqKXiClAqJ01whVGFg6h1N4Ep8B2oFU_AnyE65EmOQRbYRYSwu8/s1600/DSCN2693.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSU1k3cUiBud93eqeyQTDVhInAKNsgxvjzdtV_2Xy9PXQYe8EjnuyEW3sbOlcygNQpl_KnPYs0a4cna7Jt-qDkDdFnGqKXiClAqJ01whVGFg6h1N4Ep8B2oFU_AnyE65EmOQRbYRYSwu8/s320/DSCN2693.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7412846647818539522.post-19919927044260499652015-12-02T10:38:00.000-08:002015-12-04T16:53:47.189-08:00My Robotic Arm<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi42LXhX4ckxsRpkAWTYW200DHJaj5-lg3SEcVtpgNwNFaLjGyLx3aCV6NhtlgStU8EsFfGTpJlktGBzdrb4ylIGC104DtJHS4e3L15yiR8X3-fj0vcqcnH2RWn6O6b-nGeDZZea1qS-U8/s1600/complete+arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="172" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi42LXhX4ckxsRpkAWTYW200DHJaj5-lg3SEcVtpgNwNFaLjGyLx3aCV6NhtlgStU8EsFfGTpJlktGBzdrb4ylIGC104DtJHS4e3L15yiR8X3-fj0vcqcnH2RWn6O6b-nGeDZZea1qS-U8/s400/complete+arm.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I designed and built a robotic arm for a friend who had built a clever telepresence robot based on a Roomba vacuum. His software development was brilliant, but he lacked the facilities to construct the mechanical parts, like the arm. A primary requirement for the arm is for it to be lightweight, for the Roomba lacked the weight and power to maneuver with a heavy arm. It was also critical that as much of the mass as possible was located close to the center of gravity so that the lightweight robot did not lose its balance. Therefore, I located all of the heavy servos in the shoulder, and made the wrist and claw as light as possible. Strong Kevlar strings transmit the motion from the servos to the joints.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWmKkqwHXLnJnDh1zR6XLI2H0KMI7mgs-wDVY3tCEB6ieyqZ8hFEi1bgQ9YCHpYEnjFJHsKD65MOOOKvpC83JdQ81srGyeucvAKnY3jfVMnXAWKoXP7_UfwLCGsJvqvhCO9uij9NuDjLc/s1600/shoulder6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWmKkqwHXLnJnDh1zR6XLI2H0KMI7mgs-wDVY3tCEB6ieyqZ8hFEi1bgQ9YCHpYEnjFJHsKD65MOOOKvpC83JdQ81srGyeucvAKnY3jfVMnXAWKoXP7_UfwLCGsJvqvhCO9uij9NuDjLc/s320/shoulder6.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The shoulder: 5 servos and several pulleys packed tightly together.<br />
Servo 1: (large one center left)<br />
Arm shoulder joint up/down<br />
Servo 2: (large one top left)<br />
Elbow joint up/down.<br />
Servo 3: (small one bottom right)<br />
Claw open/close<br />
Servo 4: (small one above Servo 3)<br />
Wrist clockwise/counterclockwise.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVlAPH0BBsjIIG_NoBPx-c8dWmWmgHwXZQhYbMPrJtOV1UT6maDENcAX0k6GTvRFC0Xcij_LGtMFyZIk3xQXJoz2CktLcwWEqk18EbUrAkWEf0Cjpz_osVNfA9Ec4qvOwBoEKBEllmcmo/s1600/Robot++hand.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="167" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVlAPH0BBsjIIG_NoBPx-c8dWmWmgHwXZQhYbMPrJtOV1UT6maDENcAX0k6GTvRFC0Xcij_LGtMFyZIk3xQXJoz2CktLcwWEqk18EbUrAkWEf0Cjpz_osVNfA9Ec4qvOwBoEKBEllmcmo/s320/Robot++hand.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The wrist and claw. Everything possible was done to reduce its weight. The aluminum parts were lightened by by milling large holes in them, and by keeping the parts count low. The hinge halves and the wrist housing are one piece. The wrist pulley and lever are also one piece.<br />
This was made on my Harbor Freight mill using a rotary table, since turning this piece on a lathe would not be possible.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIBn_z0lKpuVP5SO9V1fw2V_sTvtDRMl24n8EDZi3LM5NYGBXGExw_xmOa9AGdkOjcauObvq6vNQLUiw4vnwJWDiWTaPZtZiN0UrZ4jCdaeQcsNVb3Qx23LCcvxkmjqYilaBPjPX1HBCY/s1600/claw+pulley+3+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="185" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIBn_z0lKpuVP5SO9V1fw2V_sTvtDRMl24n8EDZi3LM5NYGBXGExw_xmOa9AGdkOjcauObvq6vNQLUiw4vnwJWDiWTaPZtZiN0UrZ4jCdaeQcsNVb3Qx23LCcvxkmjqYilaBPjPX1HBCY/s320/claw+pulley+3+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
This pulley/lever combination opens and closes the claw using a stiff wire which passes through the hollow wrist axle.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHMS1-c6wb5yHpSBweWAiLgQJwY1w28sQ6GvBCCOFiWX1sP5RttdaqiJkL32S0Z151zC4Z_LCCbGzlQChZnG_U2hWW_nzLB76Ru20PoSt47-lbjP2X-PzyAp7n0EYdzR6v9uIsxczgH9Y/s1600/wrist+pulley+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHMS1-c6wb5yHpSBweWAiLgQJwY1w28sQ6GvBCCOFiWX1sP5RttdaqiJkL32S0Z151zC4Z_LCCbGzlQChZnG_U2hWW_nzLB76Ru20PoSt47-lbjP2X-PzyAp7n0EYdzR6v9uIsxczgH9Y/s320/wrist+pulley+1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The wrist is rotated by a pulley driven by one of the Kevlar strings. This string pair, and the claw string pair run through the lower PVC pipe. There are pulleys in the hinged pipe joints to ensure that the string tension and position remains constant throughout the range of elbow movement. <br />
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The wrist pulley is held to the wrist axle by a wire pin to make removal for servicing easy.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD4Uf3Z94TGaZHLeSedRp50g5uUxRTc294ExqXZZq1gRBeHGh5AJ1A3tsg0oEEr8MCRd9spw8g5xZ5sbC83vEiZf7vi2Jr8tDsJLGeuli1LtPXPHRikURlJFESxIFm0dlO6DN-hiwybRQ/s1600/wrist+pulley.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="171" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD4Uf3Z94TGaZHLeSedRp50g5uUxRTc294ExqXZZq1gRBeHGh5AJ1A3tsg0oEEr8MCRd9spw8g5xZ5sbC83vEiZf7vi2Jr8tDsJLGeuli1LtPXPHRikURlJFESxIFm0dlO6DN-hiwybRQ/s200/wrist+pulley.jpg" width="200" /></a>The new robotic hand was far smaller and lighter than the original hand, which had its servo coupled directly to the claw. The original hand did not have an articulated wrist. Since the original arm was being left on the robot, I copied the style by also using a pair of 1/2 inch PVC pipes for the "bones"<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLNpGKjdCgj_B3hYP4dVjFx81hMY1_P5SNZtfYzkcjmRcfOyx5j4rugV5zbCCuN_jg5sFCDQD3RVstjvCYzxg_1d_5DY3sJXuOalQYmGYNcK0I4jyMlrGlUJj9Cg94hLpAnLYmja4SL8Y/s1600/old+and+new+claw.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLNpGKjdCgj_B3hYP4dVjFx81hMY1_P5SNZtfYzkcjmRcfOyx5j4rugV5zbCCuN_jg5sFCDQD3RVstjvCYzxg_1d_5DY3sJXuOalQYmGYNcK0I4jyMlrGlUJj9Cg94hLpAnLYmja4SL8Y/s320/old+and+new+claw.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The lower elbow joint has 3 pulleys inside a very small space. One bronze pulley guides the wrist strings, and the other bronze pulley guides the claw strings. The center pulley is locked to the outer half of the joint, and carries the string which is attached to the elbow assist spring. Top left in picture: The center pulley being turned from 1/2 inch diameter steel stock. Top center: the steel pulley and one bronze pulley. There was not enough space for a V groove in the bronze pulley, but since the bronze pulley extends into the relief cut in the sides of the steel pulley, the string stays on the pulley, and does not get caught in the space between them. Note that the center of the steel pulley is threaded. This pulley does not turn relative to the outer half of the elbow joint. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyKlIyfOFQ82ts8RP0iVgVTbseNrT7Q7di3usZCIYIX1xL54ASVGlkf6zLAWvXtdgkqwuA2nVgEzo9EQW2a5JCjLnp6hV-QKBkoFZ5vs3LXcCJDSIcWKuwxiuJ0XqajMEHvlqAJ20LtLY/s1600/Lower+Elbow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="313" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyKlIyfOFQ82ts8RP0iVgVTbseNrT7Q7di3usZCIYIX1xL54ASVGlkf6zLAWvXtdgkqwuA2nVgEzo9EQW2a5JCjLnp6hV-QKBkoFZ5vs3LXcCJDSIcWKuwxiuJ0XqajMEHvlqAJ20LtLY/s400/Lower+Elbow.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The upper elbow joint is a completely different design, for its sole purpose is to move the elbow. The pulley in this one was machined as one piece with the hinge half, and designed to take the large amount of torque required to actuate the elbow while having a lever arm length of only 3/8 inch. The joint has a huge mechanical disadvantage of about 20:1. As a result, about 20 foot pounds of torque is required for the arm to lift a 1 pound weight. This was a consequence of choosing styling over engineering. I wanted to create an arm which moved without any external mechanisms visible. However, it also met my requirement that the weight be kept very low. The arm worked well, and met its design goal of being able to lift a cup of water. Designing an arm which could lift more weight would have been pointless, because the robot would have lost its balance if it tried to lift more weight.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5lGl8fUhTnIzEB-3EuqXBd20GiXC8-Gbp6xo3W-2NjEEmjzW3kx1oAECqO23pFjUGGG3x0iHAzYb2si7Zxsw-yZo6Cwz6IJEmKCrig0PzZh9Qgjhzk6WTdOF5oaVMTVamGo3PlZ48trg/s1600/UpperElbow1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5lGl8fUhTnIzEB-3EuqXBd20GiXC8-Gbp6xo3W-2NjEEmjzW3kx1oAECqO23pFjUGGG3x0iHAzYb2si7Zxsw-yZo6Cwz6IJEmKCrig0PzZh9Qgjhzk6WTdOF5oaVMTVamGo3PlZ48trg/s320/UpperElbow1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The string was tensioned by turning this nut. The string had to be kept very tight for proper operation. That was easy to do with the Kevlar string. I used multiple strings to achieve a tensile strength of about 200 pounds. Manually moving the arm would not break the string.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJhHRcf-SQoQc8fk2HRP5wPFdB-H-P04ZE6dAaZ5hJJlKH7tK3bJfGYPMTg0KkxloIlgfTVSa-86oETECcbrmOSVS7lJdqJpgs98HEPJdud0j4FdgGat-IBDPTOVxjSPupZDT7RO6NBfU/s1600/upper+elbow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="177" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJhHRcf-SQoQc8fk2HRP5wPFdB-H-P04ZE6dAaZ5hJJlKH7tK3bJfGYPMTg0KkxloIlgfTVSa-86oETECcbrmOSVS7lJdqJpgs98HEPJdud0j4FdgGat-IBDPTOVxjSPupZDT7RO6NBfU/s320/upper+elbow.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The underside, or "armpit" or the arm. There is very little wasted space. Note how closely packed the shoulder rack and pinion is. The end of the rack is contoured to clear the curved end of the shoulder servo. It appears that there is no room for it to move, but it can move to its full travel limits. This gives the arm about 10 degrees of left/right motion. I chose this range of motion to keep the design simple. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSLntuVga3p6i7_oW2eJ6Juo4BLnf1lSUIDrqx17EFwzQEJYnw_A0jtx3XQa_cVD0bG1PU3tdIlb50Vk1CODFIllmfhji0amUV1NVMbIu9L_CFcwQMcI3tnqXKOMhUyplBpS83zcZeqv4/s1600/shoulder8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSLntuVga3p6i7_oW2eJ6Juo4BLnf1lSUIDrqx17EFwzQEJYnw_A0jtx3XQa_cVD0bG1PU3tdIlb50Vk1CODFIllmfhji0amUV1NVMbIu9L_CFcwQMcI3tnqXKOMhUyplBpS83zcZeqv4/s320/shoulder8.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh965iuekCZtvfBXfsrzyV3aT2IgEfAVMjJ5KnPxA43IGkD40rwqh1bn2piVyawnnP3SRHJRecs4DCWS3D5FcyhSSIoCZayo_Gt6sKhtkh61W2ffh06WBZGQZFk6YYkcahAtjlz6EUe-a4/s1600/shoulder10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh965iuekCZtvfBXfsrzyV3aT2IgEfAVMjJ5KnPxA43IGkD40rwqh1bn2piVyawnnP3SRHJRecs4DCWS3D5FcyhSSIoCZayo_Gt6sKhtkh61W2ffh06WBZGQZFk6YYkcahAtjlz6EUe-a4/s320/shoulder10.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This photo shows how the 10 degrees of movement was easily done. The arm can move that much while retaining a simple belt drive for the up/down movement, and all the servos can be mounted in the same frame. This is only slightly more complex than not having any left/right movement at all. A lightweight, compact design was more important than having a larger range of movement. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisH6atuozBy74ufVGjI0QHeS1ACp4_QK1EIGIbij_fudC_appHbkyy1yV2VEyqPqrdGq_e6MW3GJiyZwPszIVkhm5kMqc-v99EG7u-pRcIV9XeiliPWbDOTHkRMaS9xk3Ol1wXjeGMPko/s1600/shoulder+axle1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisH6atuozBy74ufVGjI0QHeS1ACp4_QK1EIGIbij_fudC_appHbkyy1yV2VEyqPqrdGq_e6MW3GJiyZwPszIVkhm5kMqc-v99EG7u-pRcIV9XeiliPWbDOTHkRMaS9xk3Ol1wXjeGMPko/s320/shoulder+axle1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Bottom view of the belt drive. The servo pulley is also custom made. The splines in the servo pulley were filed by hand. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj55T1qJa9NRsyYdIxZExNlEdnFsiksom1nTbQRFzhB0_qfFIzM4_tYMvn6IZgFv970CY30tsXyqhtPyY70FOm5VNoD9LIlDJBG6KMKU_6WiPRfHFN5hnmC9jZpcxL7WPoEqJb6QF8nd-k/s1600/belt+drive.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj55T1qJa9NRsyYdIxZExNlEdnFsiksom1nTbQRFzhB0_qfFIzM4_tYMvn6IZgFv970CY30tsXyqhtPyY70FOm5VNoD9LIlDJBG6KMKU_6WiPRfHFN5hnmC9jZpcxL7WPoEqJb6QF8nd-k/s320/belt+drive.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUMQmLTt4eCo42qN0YKP5WHXD7x3hRMbT3cKDYgn6S5JoO-SkZr-f3hJwSwyntdiaG0BIsM_6lyD1TX2RBmGYqMGbFjYBXbafJhXmHaAfkEFPeRaEqrargGKpfY5JUsJKJv4VdldtWTkE/s1600/shoulder7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUMQmLTt4eCo42qN0YKP5WHXD7x3hRMbT3cKDYgn6S5JoO-SkZr-f3hJwSwyntdiaG0BIsM_6lyD1TX2RBmGYqMGbFjYBXbafJhXmHaAfkEFPeRaEqrargGKpfY5JUsJKJv4VdldtWTkE/s320/shoulder7.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The robot I bult the arm for is called MAYA, and it is the brainchild of Ben Hylak, who came up with the idea of hacking a Roomba robot and using it as the motive power for a low cost telepresence robot. It is Ben's telepresence robot concept and software development that is the reason for the national recognition he has received and his subsequent invitation to the White House. My arm merely went along for the ride. While I have never received, nor expect to receive an invitation to the White House, at least I can say that something I had a part in making was a guest of the President!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLWcuX2rUfe8y557OyON1J2q4m8w3Q3gssCfk8Xy8tTqG1bXmxgOkXkurdkbHM8iv59oI-6pgibOf3aiPHk49Jf-E-ayFVYJ826qy5blUPnl2ttbPYnt2zHm0aNQ6mpY-7EByNsabkjpw/s1600/20120209_sben_1024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLWcuX2rUfe8y557OyON1J2q4m8w3Q3gssCfk8Xy8tTqG1bXmxgOkXkurdkbHM8iv59oI-6pgibOf3aiPHk49Jf-E-ayFVYJ826qy5blUPnl2ttbPYnt2zHm0aNQ6mpY-7EByNsabkjpw/s400/20120209_sben_1024.jpg" width="235" /></a></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7412846647818539522.post-21883642263288770262015-11-10T12:25:00.000-08:002015-11-10T12:25:05.646-08:00Stancor Ultralinear Amplifier<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The Stancor original Williamson and Williamson Ultralinear amplifiers were kits marketed by Stancor to showcase the performance of their transformers. They used a separate power supply chassis connected by a 4 conductor cable. A pair of these makes a great sounding stereo power amplifier. The Ultralinear is much preferred because the power output is much greater. 25 watts vs. 8 watts. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9YW4BiDsy1JFlUU9Mptxirngf7ZkPYL_V2P6SDabWuZl1siBzm9Ye_IPy7Y_Plnc3_z7sbZbncNOT94WibVeQ5fqErgU3nRE3O3A11GYO0l-fbOnVxa7jYr9qowLBLcGgAY738dfvxpA/s1600/stancor3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9YW4BiDsy1JFlUU9Mptxirngf7ZkPYL_V2P6SDabWuZl1siBzm9Ye_IPy7Y_Plnc3_z7sbZbncNOT94WibVeQ5fqErgU3nRE3O3A11GYO0l-fbOnVxa7jYr9qowLBLcGgAY738dfvxpA/s640/stancor3.jpg" width="449" /></a></div>
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I rebuilt a set of these, and can attest to their fine performance. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOG99KLP8DwVMNE4LTOdBYEJBsFdIFMBW5vaTTMZHbLTZvbhKShF6ipn-g5EEhCNjAXwbzw5fXVGx5Ew9A0zEA_uLTInWz_NE_pp4gfax4J8ehJF71bvMtKmTxj6ZtbWTh_zjht1v1qTs/s1600/IMG_4943.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOG99KLP8DwVMNE4LTOdBYEJBsFdIFMBW5vaTTMZHbLTZvbhKShF6ipn-g5EEhCNjAXwbzw5fXVGx5Ew9A0zEA_uLTInWz_NE_pp4gfax4J8ehJF71bvMtKmTxj6ZtbWTh_zjht1v1qTs/s400/IMG_4943.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
The number one problem with any old electronic equipment is the electrolytic capacitors. I removed the metal can capacitors and replaced them with modern ones. The modern ones are much smaller than the originals, and are designed for mounting on a printed circuit board.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbPQX6uUBYDj6Ha0EE8ymI3JOUtVRqfX8uZJT1uS6iaKEVJNiP3-3xN_bKOhYgjNTysRibiJflORtHNZuopbjOIQqu55fXD4yM655wcvj86vJRsTLuevulfRncdNgUC94czQWBVa9pghM/s1600/IMG_4873.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbPQX6uUBYDj6Ha0EE8ymI3JOUtVRqfX8uZJT1uS6iaKEVJNiP3-3xN_bKOhYgjNTysRibiJflORtHNZuopbjOIQqu55fXD4yM655wcvj86vJRsTLuevulfRncdNgUC94czQWBVa9pghM/s200/IMG_4873.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUcPaeV-t84aVFyjZ8IfbZwQMYzgo5qrMUVEM4QHMEtXIUItl4exvI85T4znNef2V89k1KN3rattufPMyry5Vhi2WF94-VGFKhBlms25FStcN_5AkRtPVkZp0JM48VmKXDd1Gwqe9rlog/s1600/IMG_4874.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUcPaeV-t84aVFyjZ8IfbZwQMYzgo5qrMUVEM4QHMEtXIUItl4exvI85T4znNef2V89k1KN3rattufPMyry5Vhi2WF94-VGFKhBlms25FStcN_5AkRtPVkZp0JM48VmKXDd1Gwqe9rlog/s200/IMG_4874.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
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I cut pieces of circuit board material into the shape of the original capacitor bases, and drilled holes for the new capacitors.</div>
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<b>At Right: </b> The new next to the old.</div>
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<b>Below:</b> An amplifier chassis with the new capacitors.</div>
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One of the originals was a dual capacitor, so my replacement has 2 capacitors, too. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAF79ov6bxJkyEQkJLXy5J6Y-UNRXrOcPq9zf-3wltDeqFgVBqk_KcnyQIM_dY3fHQD8-PLvOSLAAjPjhn-PaVrOGos_pfk7vvQPjzRGg8OwGj7sfdtF9M680HnrAg-SO65aFXv7I1CmI/s1600/IMG_4905.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAF79ov6bxJkyEQkJLXy5J6Y-UNRXrOcPq9zf-3wltDeqFgVBqk_KcnyQIM_dY3fHQD8-PLvOSLAAjPjhn-PaVrOGos_pfk7vvQPjzRGg8OwGj7sfdtF9M680HnrAg-SO65aFXv7I1CmI/s1600/IMG_4905.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
The power supply chassis has 3. The 3 capacitors combined with one of Stancor's chokes do a great job of filtering hum from the 440 volt supply.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2eapqxO4OnamYKEWT1F7z4mIuwyN5okfrcLkdMzggw06eZ27_0_5RlLfHHPXYQbjkzYGfkd7RrhiJ3mAhUD0H7oSiD81app83h-xBzmkLcc883-ds64JTOB12L8ZBu8UZuChHNMQdrjM/s1600/IMG_4904.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2eapqxO4OnamYKEWT1F7z4mIuwyN5okfrcLkdMzggw06eZ27_0_5RlLfHHPXYQbjkzYGfkd7RrhiJ3mAhUD0H7oSiD81app83h-xBzmkLcc883-ds64JTOB12L8ZBu8UZuChHNMQdrjM/s1600/IMG_4904.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
I made new cables to connect the power supplies to the amplifiers. The plugs and sockets are the same as early 4 pin tubes, like the type 80 rectifier. I needed a replacement plug, so I took the base off an old Philco 80 tube, and made an aluminum cap for it. <br />
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The chassis had no bottoms, but they have threaded holes to attach bottom covers.<br />
I made covers from sheet steel and attached rubber feet to them <br />
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I modernized the chassis by adding power sockets and replaced the original 2 wire lamp cord with 3 wire grounded cords.<br />
The modern cords and the steel bottom covers make these amplifiers much safer.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjplyV1UyLjA3cvXcGRTrSeGWHLQGE6EJIjJ5gKETgXqz0j-vR8MIXj3GVd5VXxmlBir8-e6CgQgh4qoqZDUVj2XlOa8sG8eSRv4XpvTZgsPwTdUAYaJIQToozuNS6uLq3pngIuMFPa1B4/s1600/IMG_4897.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjplyV1UyLjA3cvXcGRTrSeGWHLQGE6EJIjJ5gKETgXqz0j-vR8MIXj3GVd5VXxmlBir8-e6CgQgh4qoqZDUVj2XlOa8sG8eSRv4XpvTZgsPwTdUAYaJIQToozuNS6uLq3pngIuMFPa1B4/s320/IMG_4897.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<b>The amplifier schematic.</b><br />
Ultra-linear circuits are easy to identify by the number of transformer leads going to the output tubes. Ultra-linear circuits have 2 wires to each tube, while other circuits have just one. If you find a Stancor chassis with the labels missing, this is how you can tell which version you have. <br />
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The amplifier has sockets to measure and balance the plate currents on the 807 output tubes. This is important for two reasons. One, balanced current is important to achieve the lowest distortion. Another good reason is to verify that the tubes are not using too much current. This happened to me. C4 was bad. If C4 or C5 are leaky, the grid bias voltage will go positive, and cause the tubes to draw excess current. Drawing only a little too much will cause the plates to glow red to an excessive degree.. </div>
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In this picture, the tube in the foreground is drawing too much plate current. The one in the background is ok. Its plate is slightly red, that is acceptable. The blue glow on the glass is acceptable, too. A gassy tube has a glow inside the tube. These are factory new Raytheon tubes.<br />
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The power supply is simple. The supplies are only large enough for a single amplifier, and will overheat if two amps are connected to one power supply. </div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7412846647818539522.post-75669258721652913962014-03-23T20:08:00.000-07:002014-06-29T18:40:22.206-07:001942 Philips GM 3155B Kathograph II Oscilloscope<div style="text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg912Y-7q__p-ylD619xIcjJMmAgrNxWDGzNna4r1GHTqFKv2kbXJVmL_AmlP6QBQFs8zYBf05xywYNELqvp209h73hi_mCg1-ZHFJeClPVdpSeLOXFfCEy6DT2uFv7QXKYOQDAy-W9sn8/s1600/IMG_3508.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg912Y-7q__p-ylD619xIcjJMmAgrNxWDGzNna4r1GHTqFKv2kbXJVmL_AmlP6QBQFs8zYBf05xywYNELqvp209h73hi_mCg1-ZHFJeClPVdpSeLOXFfCEy6DT2uFv7QXKYOQDAy-W9sn8/s1600/IMG_3508.JPG" height="640" width="489" /></a></div>
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About 35 years ago, an older gentleman I worked with gave me this Philips oscilloscope. It was given to him many years before, and that man told him that it came off a German U-Boat. It is possible, but I can't prove it. Apparently a GI brought it home as a war souvenir. This sat among my collection of radios until today, when I decided to see if it worked. Why did I wait 35 years? Because I was happy to have it on my shelf, and did not want to risk blowing the rare Valvo tubes. But now I need to sell it and other things in my collection, and I felt that if it were operable, I could get a higher price.<br />
I first had to tackle a problem that I have known about for 35 years, and was one of the reasons I simply put it on the shelf. Someone in the past tried to repair it and made a mess of things. <br />
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The Y gain control potentiometer failed, and someone decided to "fix" it with a volume control from an old radio. Trouble is, the volume control had a SPST switch at the full CCW position, while the original had a SPDT switch to change the range of the gain control. To solve that problem, the repairman put a toggle switch inside the cabinet. I knew it couldn't be wired right because he had the the wire from the braided shield connected to the switch, when it must go to ground. <br />
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At that point, I did not have schematics, so I took my best guess. I also rooted through my collection of potentiometers and found one with a SPDT switch. It was a 2 gang pot, but I will just use one. I later found out it is the exact value I need, 500k ohms. <br />
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I connected the wires, and was ready to try it out. All I needed was a power cord. I did not want to solder wires to the mains socket as was done before, so I went back to my supply of electrical hardware. It turns out that an American appliance connector is a close fit for this vintage European connector. <br />
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This oscilloscope is very versatile, and can be used nearly anywhere in the world, thanks to it's multi-tap transformer and voltage selector switch.Both sides of the mains are fused. <br />
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I verified I had the right voltage, and plugged it in.<br />
Nothing. No lights, no hum, not even any smoke.<br />
I discovered that the power switch is bad. Both sides of the mains are switched, and both switches were stuck open. I soldered jumpers across the switch, for I want to leave the original switch intact. This way everything is original except for the Y gain control. <br />
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I tried it again. I should mention that I don't just plug it in, rather I raise the voltage slowly using a variable transformer. This way I can catch a little problem before it becomes a big one.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLKNUgwXXws0SzZCHhkL6xcRykN6WOfcg3LuP3Q4Arye48Kfg3KEvbfrGLiHxlqEBMuNI2zYOoP3rhwFuVcXydhqLZsgyeS9y3syosfxF6fO6WCHgphY14c4Kxz4aIlVJ50RRZetc_rBA/s1600/20140323_153705.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLKNUgwXXws0SzZCHhkL6xcRykN6WOfcg3LuP3Q4Arye48Kfg3KEvbfrGLiHxlqEBMuNI2zYOoP3rhwFuVcXydhqLZsgyeS9y3syosfxF6fO6WCHgphY14c4Kxz4aIlVJ50RRZetc_rBA/s1600/20140323_153705.jpg" height="200" width="112" /></a> Amazingly, all the tubes lighted up, and after perhaps 50 years, the oscilloscope came to life again! Soon I had a trace on the CRT.<br />
I did not know it, but I was soon in for a shock! A 610 volt shock, to be exact. See the 4 filter capacitors in a row? Unlike what is commonly found, where the metal cans are grounded to the chassis, these are on insulated bases, and the can voltage is very high!<br />
From left to right, the first one is at chassis ground, no surprise there. However, the second one is at +205 volts. The third one is at -405 volts! Between capacitors 2 and 3 is a potential of 610 volts! Cap #4 is "only" -262 volts. So, if you ever encounter one of these oscilloscopes, do not touch the capacitors!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwf38N4Uu2hXnczcIGqr3elgdFiULfgUuvOEh1UDFOKwObsDKxXLVbBfKkpH0mdOokaaaMn9khWXeWQ7Hvsr8l0J3XQb7GRVOVCJ2nBYuB4vx2EbTJY8apvu_c0AMBjC4eSXQSxZA-tx8/s1600/IMG_3494.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwf38N4Uu2hXnczcIGqr3elgdFiULfgUuvOEh1UDFOKwObsDKxXLVbBfKkpH0mdOokaaaMn9khWXeWQ7Hvsr8l0J3XQb7GRVOVCJ2nBYuB4vx2EbTJY8apvu_c0AMBjC4eSXQSxZA-tx8/s1600/IMG_3494.JPG" height="478" width="640" /></a></div>
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The two clear glass tubes are 1876 rectifiers, and the gold tube is a 4673 pentode for the Y amplifier.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuYTVoT7RJUwglieorsE8YDf4dalAmdZLKdRjejb8U6pJ1qfZsobX6FJJhrMeebxyBdj5jVnmDcsQ7y6C0F3V6PoqidK-309AX1rT4leI7X4_7jXNB5Tr1NiPPbVe6POt8nvA69cnJiUE/s1600/20140323_164411.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuYTVoT7RJUwglieorsE8YDf4dalAmdZLKdRjejb8U6pJ1qfZsobX6FJJhrMeebxyBdj5jVnmDcsQ7y6C0F3V6PoqidK-309AX1rT4leI7X4_7jXNB5Tr1NiPPbVe6POt8nvA69cnJiUE/s1600/20140323_164411.jpg" height="200" width="112" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRot-4gWiqCyEznoGKYl-71osWTpHS4HzYYPWzEX88So7l8BKyU0S5GS5GU37g1XccW6-6QqHGK10D74nAKp6c5do54Nm0Zl89KQAbxC2AcwSTu0M8bDjs_QiuBPHn6B7jsi7Ri-SEsdw/s1600/20140323_164419.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRot-4gWiqCyEznoGKYl-71osWTpHS4HzYYPWzEX88So7l8BKyU0S5GS5GU37g1XccW6-6QqHGK10D74nAKp6c5do54Nm0Zl89KQAbxC2AcwSTu0M8bDjs_QiuBPHn6B7jsi7Ri-SEsdw/s1600/20140323_164419.jpg" height="200" width="112" /></a><br />
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Impressively, all of these high voltage capacitors appear to be good.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv_F2J4ex0DgOleF3Ak33Lswu_ZK8mvI6EIkLN8sxJZQNnA6DSTXhSIEtwM2Kp4vzuG1UktEH4DY_qoRVtQo8GklwKoSYJ3lt7x-eYjLFdGrDVSApbu3ZvI9SfiPpt1_uSseruuy0IYyw/s1600/20140323_164442.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv_F2J4ex0DgOleF3Ak33Lswu_ZK8mvI6EIkLN8sxJZQNnA6DSTXhSIEtwM2Kp4vzuG1UktEH4DY_qoRVtQo8GklwKoSYJ3lt7x-eYjLFdGrDVSApbu3ZvI9SfiPpt1_uSseruuy0IYyw/s1600/20140323_164442.jpg" height="200" width="112" /></a> <br />
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A view inside the cabinet.<br />
That little rectangle of paper is very important!<br />
That is all that is preventing the capacitors,<br />
and their high voltages, from touching the metal cabinet. <br />
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Here is a view of the other side: The clear tube is a 4890 triode oscillator, and the shielded tube is a 4673 pentode amplifier for the X axis.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBPgPkjqmT6Jz_yjsUK9H1Ozy-aCzOiy6_VBdl4GOqidLbuchAnpxSTTQLpJPWUK35svven4jufGNaPqRQ7Q3YCpU3qviqszJi-rue92mVrKO2ZuWHZt7HR8szkMmqPoj1GSGGjb4dwmQ/s1600/IMG_3496.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBPgPkjqmT6Jz_yjsUK9H1Ozy-aCzOiy6_VBdl4GOqidLbuchAnpxSTTQLpJPWUK35svven4jufGNaPqRQ7Q3YCpU3qviqszJi-rue92mVrKO2ZuWHZt7HR8szkMmqPoj1GSGGjb4dwmQ/s1600/IMG_3496.JPG" height="476" width="640" /></a></div>
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Underneath the chassis, it looks like the day it was manufactured, 72 years ago.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi__NBHwFVsqASVYPWe-Ca7FY53DZXz41Zss3Q1H_jjxwL-CAzL1CA5kpYQxywTfQJvpxWmLZz-yf3OZ9fQgzsQ16d-e4WGneFqGSc665YS34a2Xh3uqGhNZRv3-64_e-5xrW3tkzdOjKQ/s1600/IMG_3500.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi__NBHwFVsqASVYPWe-Ca7FY53DZXz41Zss3Q1H_jjxwL-CAzL1CA5kpYQxywTfQJvpxWmLZz-yf3OZ9fQgzsQ16d-e4WGneFqGSc665YS34a2Xh3uqGhNZRv3-64_e-5xrW3tkzdOjKQ/s1600/IMG_3500.JPG" height="478" width="640" /></a></div>
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A side view of the cabinet. The 72 year old decals are still in fair condition:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijfpQ2kAL-vfkoitpQowPl7-dHKCesk7LyKYqHmM675yCghBOOMfOdmOlDr9AH0O5Z2xBiOJ6WKnDP5n3BouiCRRVWz84isTEYC3yTdaZNk_tLolBpDfzGHxcwe-DT0yHJBB_yfP6S1dM/s1600/20140323_165513.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijfpQ2kAL-vfkoitpQowPl7-dHKCesk7LyKYqHmM675yCghBOOMfOdmOlDr9AH0O5Z2xBiOJ6WKnDP5n3BouiCRRVWz84isTEYC3yTdaZNk_tLolBpDfzGHxcwe-DT0yHJBB_yfP6S1dM/s1600/20140323_165513.jpg" height="593" width="640" /></a></div>
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Finally, here is it in operation for the first time in 50 years. Most of the controls work well, and the trigger is surprisingly stable. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibzpnLKslDn2UPxaffzpfAHDaDpMN-RBJc3vS9ZIZu9q4E2-BALI4csSUs_kQWFuvvww48TQRwQtFxwT72XpGsFVdFxwVwG5AsyROEofRayOa7034K46PLe45ptzivoxOvYe-Q28diVRU/s1600/IMG_3510.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibzpnLKslDn2UPxaffzpfAHDaDpMN-RBJc3vS9ZIZu9q4E2-BALI4csSUs_kQWFuvvww48TQRwQtFxwT72XpGsFVdFxwVwG5AsyROEofRayOa7034K46PLe45ptzivoxOvYe-Q28diVRU/s1600/IMG_3510.JPG" height="135" width="200" /></a><br />
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The trigger is disabled by pulling this jumper out:</div>
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This simple scope does not have centering controls, and I did not see any trimmers inside.<br />
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I have to translate the German language instruction manual to see if there is a way to center the image. Unfortunately, two of the knobs were missing, and I had to substitute the ones seen in the first picture. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI8VToKeUMxaUAIiL6WBelfW0C2h_hRwK2ThqpQYbJJ4quncN-GQ-sWYCzC9KTw_ngyOVdIYwzkA1OztzWdPShGrVXuYysMbE8Oe8kDyEjobtV8LfT_nhXhKXxdH6B_SqHyw8flQfivyM/s1600/IMG_3504.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI8VToKeUMxaUAIiL6WBelfW0C2h_hRwK2ThqpQYbJJ4quncN-GQ-sWYCzC9KTw_ngyOVdIYwzkA1OztzWdPShGrVXuYysMbE8Oe8kDyEjobtV8LfT_nhXhKXxdH6B_SqHyw8flQfivyM/s1600/IMG_3504.JPG" height="400" width="317" /></a></div>
The Kathograph has found a new home at Volker K's Oscilloscope Museum. http://www.oscilloscopemuseum.com/<br />
Should you have any questions about an old oscilloscope, I highly recommend his website.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7412846647818539522.post-19779041706878947112014-03-18T19:08:00.000-07:002014-04-24T20:02:05.268-07:00Lorex Camera RepairI have a Lorex security camera system that works very well. However, after a year in operation, two cameras developed blurry areas in the bottom 1/3 of the image, and the colors were not as good as they used to be. At first I suspected moisture, since these are outside cameras. But when I disassembled them, I found the day/night filter had come loose and fell out of place. This caused the blur at the bottom. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9rM8mndpdFOhD6nPf8u16pWuhXGX4uJEWIRUrCk21WRnYsYi3ou7DqMHrg4qReK5VXIqRlOkwvsHF1a88ImQLAoJ1oxMSLd0PZ9Fs4bDlECh7Esq4EeHhHsZb3MGsFAJ1g4Ol20140Qs/s1600/IMG_3409.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9rM8mndpdFOhD6nPf8u16pWuhXGX4uJEWIRUrCk21WRnYsYi3ou7DqMHrg4qReK5VXIqRlOkwvsHF1a88ImQLAoJ1oxMSLd0PZ9Fs4bDlECh7Esq4EeHhHsZb3MGsFAJ1g4Ol20140Qs/s1600/IMG_3409.JPG" height="298" width="400" /></a></div>
Here is how to disassemble and repair the camera. First, pry out the three white plugs in the lens, and then remove the screws. One of the white plugs can be seen under the screw on the left. Then gently pry out the lens. I put a screwdriver in the holes and rock the lens loose, a little at a time. I change holes and rock some more. Do not exert too much pressure or you will crack the lens. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIbdoIXmhgRzVb4fw6jstsdeTU4Ozx72qHqqq-iicndvXhnhJT8BtmDyKtkuGtTS1rGm_awNi48w7Tu3RCEXEVIbLCekVUmoakoggfXUhdrq05-3GCF_lE5zDIT0cw3llG-d9UCjdsQfQ/s1600/IMG_3410.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIbdoIXmhgRzVb4fw6jstsdeTU4Ozx72qHqqq-iicndvXhnhJT8BtmDyKtkuGtTS1rGm_awNi48w7Tu3RCEXEVIbLCekVUmoakoggfXUhdrq05-3GCF_lE5zDIT0cw3llG-d9UCjdsQfQ/s1600/IMG_3410.JPG" height="149" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf4H9qOUlx-m5tNPP-TqU3UDD8MEzAp7SjM_cfneEHq_H8xCoMByTA6eDLMqOCbYlZYWf-GDa7_XsDBRnl7AQoMVxjPxdGS453wkkd6XD7jCBqc_C0utXwmhuM39ic3jLAq-lEMzKOE24/s1600/IMG_3420.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf4H9qOUlx-m5tNPP-TqU3UDD8MEzAp7SjM_cfneEHq_H8xCoMByTA6eDLMqOCbYlZYWf-GDa7_XsDBRnl7AQoMVxjPxdGS453wkkd6XD7jCBqc_C0utXwmhuM39ic3jLAq-lEMzKOE24/s1600/IMG_3420.JPG" height="149" width="200" /></a> The lens and electronics come out as a single unit. There is an O ring around the lens and each screw. These are critical, even in indoor use, to prevent moisture from fogging the camera. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP8PAZuFi-nKDGJEPTueYu6S0thj_1g4FWB0Nqcp7oxPWmAsBhM7pAS23xSfkeyQkkpOxLfg4jFYzDUnuQi_HNTZPy1jdZIo7iM4cISFu7qO3PUSAJCNrPd3cUgiJMx8a_P8BGs4P7nZI/s1600/IMG_3418.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP8PAZuFi-nKDGJEPTueYu6S0thj_1g4FWB0Nqcp7oxPWmAsBhM7pAS23xSfkeyQkkpOxLfg4jFYzDUnuQi_HNTZPy1jdZIo7iM4cISFu7qO3PUSAJCNrPd3cUgiJMx8a_P8BGs4P7nZI/s1600/IMG_3418.JPG" height="149" width="200" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgVoOzsGe0UkWhzPsrnJGPW-sL8wCJkyYk1z3cO4OKKeVVm33H_vbRs_1mu8EMzYkag-IlKbx7v05lV3iN8akuYurEp3Er43zxykTjDho1icXdsK5z_lo5-KeFR-FUpFSxCeyIe132ibA/s1600/IMG_3411.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgVoOzsGe0UkWhzPsrnJGPW-sL8wCJkyYk1z3cO4OKKeVVm33H_vbRs_1mu8EMzYkag-IlKbx7v05lV3iN8akuYurEp3Er43zxykTjDho1icXdsK5z_lo5-KeFR-FUpFSxCeyIe132ibA/s1600/IMG_3411.JPG" height="149" width="200" /></a> Remove the two screws in the black plastic plate, and the lens and infrared LEDs will come loose. Unplug the LEDs and set them aside.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTUBH3IZSY9cq8USylD0thhhY_yoX3ACxEmTU1RJ6kEDf2og6jIguHqr9f4VaqI0orrWCf8r9mo-rdzS1Kfu7wDC6wrvxBLr2jV9Dj25jxbkL74dNsdbp_ww4cSIN1MYIh4lMwNPikVmM/s1600/IMG_3413.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTUBH3IZSY9cq8USylD0thhhY_yoX3ACxEmTU1RJ6kEDf2og6jIguHqr9f4VaqI0orrWCf8r9mo-rdzS1Kfu7wDC6wrvxBLr2jV9Dj25jxbkL74dNsdbp_ww4cSIN1MYIh4lMwNPikVmM/s1600/IMG_3413.JPG" height="146" width="200" /></a> Remove the center screw in the white plastic, and the two black screws close to the motor, which is centered above the white plastic. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidzkB_HmT9-iRHA9MzqX3LUuiIzCNmYHJbRsNLjv5hAgNiT8W5ppSht0weJEVUnBwPKfE7vC5hatuHi8VJAb3GAd4O6z9MqViwjiYuWB2Fg-y4jBMXpjMWuFtY_fwdZEwor-6y_DDOUsI/s1600/IMG_3412.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidzkB_HmT9-iRHA9MzqX3LUuiIzCNmYHJbRsNLjv5hAgNiT8W5ppSht0weJEVUnBwPKfE7vC5hatuHi8VJAb3GAd4O6z9MqViwjiYuWB2Fg-y4jBMXpjMWuFtY_fwdZEwor-6y_DDOUsI/s1600/IMG_3412.JPG" height="149" width="200" /></a><br />
Turn the camera over and lift off the motor and filter assembly. Be careful not to lose the filter! it may fall out as soon as the screws are loosened. Notice how the filter has one half that is red when viewed under certain lighting angles.<br />
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On my camera, the red half is on the right in the disassembled picture. It is important that it is oriented properly. The filter has a front and back. The small side fits into the plastic frame. It appears that it was intended to be a snap fit, since I do not see evidence of glue. However I have to now glue mine to secure them in place. Use very small amounts of glue and do not get any on the lens or the filter. If you do, the camera will be ruined. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0I4V5soRaEEnqG5vrEY4ssdSkeF-wW38ljhJ8N6S065OZOIzaDMLo8E-o8UoacGdImOVPZ9padGuRwShsMbtb3fXV54iY2nirfidJaoMdR4T7C6RbudWHB6jEpAMdO3j6MsoOw8AD-Uo/s1600/IMG_3416.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0I4V5soRaEEnqG5vrEY4ssdSkeF-wW38ljhJ8N6S065OZOIzaDMLo8E-o8UoacGdImOVPZ9padGuRwShsMbtb3fXV54iY2nirfidJaoMdR4T7C6RbudWHB6jEpAMdO3j6MsoOw8AD-Uo/s1600/IMG_3416.JPG" height="149" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhca4RJIOZPVpPln6-ca78CovJlCBWuMZ7gYKmoIk8MqdtNAYm71LeGVpXbNWqaBIvWqDQ02AfeN9KYUzDsnJy0hiaJDAMjXqw0_6DOFp8ZQeso_e2KKGZh1P9zkXLZmZkr3GvPqz8MV8I/s1600/IMG_3415.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhca4RJIOZPVpPln6-ca78CovJlCBWuMZ7gYKmoIk8MqdtNAYm71LeGVpXbNWqaBIvWqDQ02AfeN9KYUzDsnJy0hiaJDAMjXqw0_6DOFp8ZQeso_e2KKGZh1P9zkXLZmZkr3GvPqz8MV8I/s1600/IMG_3415.JPG" height="149" width="200" /></a> Reassembly.<br />
Stretch the O ring over the lens. Try to get it on without it twisting. It will seal better if it is back on the way it was originally.<br />
Press the lens back into the body, and see that it is uniformly bottomed out. Do not use the screws to pull it in place, or the lens may crack. Tighten each screw a little at a time. Your camera should now be as good as new. <br />
Here are some tips on identifying the camera models. There are 50 viewing angle and 90 degree viewing angle cameras that look nearly the same. You can tell them apart by looking at the lens.<br />
The 50 degree camera is on the left, and has a small lens in the rear, behind the day/night filter. In these cameras, if the filter is loose, you can see it. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQPmo1Z_kHHLvvbKCsYFq80q5qIzBBzzV1U5OAqujHZfv1twww-cQQEL5YB8GHlK5QnwzFhQbmAlWAcOaIeATbSqN807d7oXjQ9zB8vcpcnrTAVO5GXRWW4CfZC4e1JdCp9_QV_Uodj-k/s1600/IMG_3414.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQPmo1Z_kHHLvvbKCsYFq80q5qIzBBzzV1U5OAqujHZfv1twww-cQQEL5YB8GHlK5QnwzFhQbmAlWAcOaIeATbSqN807d7oXjQ9zB8vcpcnrTAVO5GXRWW4CfZC4e1JdCp9_QV_Uodj-k/s1600/IMG_3414.JPG" height="298" width="400" /></a></div>
The 90 degree camera is on the right. It's wide angle lens is close to the front, and the day/night filter is behind it. You cannot see the day/night filter without disassembling the camera. <br />
The electronics are different, too. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh6qx2eFps_qJXkD-xqZcYrAQKvY148V8cOh8YvlCUO9iIIv34gYpFw9roFnfIpraBsHz2eaTA_zK3S2mYoFoNZXHpYiv0Qk7HGL9IPEgcEygPRyglhZzwAENZaFsJg1kXAyXeKFWi1C4/s1600/IMG_3419.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh6qx2eFps_qJXkD-xqZcYrAQKvY148V8cOh8YvlCUO9iIIv34gYpFw9roFnfIpraBsHz2eaTA_zK3S2mYoFoNZXHpYiv0Qk7HGL9IPEgcEygPRyglhZzwAENZaFsJg1kXAyXeKFWi1C4/s1600/IMG_3419.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here is the back of the 50 degree camera. Prominently missing is the white plastic piece, which is a heat sink. That heat sink on the 90 degree cameras makes a huge difference in night vision performance.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiui5o9zBDAzF9YciQdFLNhlntFnVoopkK08Yl4bWWIGdLMDCUVzNZCBGtB2fI_Kw3uHkV7xR-lAr8EeMPsAiINFfBxvkrSuCqelCyiQGW9vkGe4bHQJK5nwzlLW8m7gqG0-pyi8R-3mcg/s1600/Capture90.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiui5o9zBDAzF9YciQdFLNhlntFnVoopkK08Yl4bWWIGdLMDCUVzNZCBGtB2fI_Kw3uHkV7xR-lAr8EeMPsAiINFfBxvkrSuCqelCyiQGW9vkGe4bHQJK5nwzlLW8m7gqG0-pyi8R-3mcg/s1600/Capture90.JPG" height="195" width="320" /></a><br />
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Here are pictures taken at night from each camera. They are both looking at my driveway from the same distance. The driveway is barely visible in the picture taken with the 50 degree camera, while it is easily visible in the picture from the 90 degree camera.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjulexA2v1QWLd_CWxCgMuetiKcjeAA3WohWb5k78v6ko1pa9-KbzKc1OXJ6LgTWrRnMivjaCBybt64uQGMraIBNhwoEIgJYNXcCpXnMCHU5yny-AxGdPoJNVqknRZL24mq2KYrwR4VeFI/s1600/Capture120.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjulexA2v1QWLd_CWxCgMuetiKcjeAA3WohWb5k78v6ko1pa9-KbzKc1OXJ6LgTWrRnMivjaCBybt64uQGMraIBNhwoEIgJYNXcCpXnMCHU5yny-AxGdPoJNVqknRZL24mq2KYrwR4VeFI/s1600/Capture120.JPG" height="199" width="320" /></a></div>
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Daytime performance of the two cameras is similar, but I prefer the wider viewing angle of the 90 degree camera. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCy63wOLq5YL_aiGKss0vj13bTs7vGwr5IpSxANogUReFvju8dWeJ_XPCIkE_S7AWL22WMuyH_F0kdPfUWm67P3QxSBKfOd_uKiHM98ajR70ENN5-thRYmAMwoogkAa88K4XPaz0OTP_g/s1600/IMG_3809.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCy63wOLq5YL_aiGKss0vj13bTs7vGwr5IpSxANogUReFvju8dWeJ_XPCIkE_S7AWL22WMuyH_F0kdPfUWm67P3QxSBKfOd_uKiHM98ajR70ENN5-thRYmAMwoogkAa88K4XPaz0OTP_g/s1600/IMG_3809.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOq_UOBe2qf6vQi4nPA0x5eawsCzK8rnNSxtxHy9cVwRIR9ypCnzWq-OqXhX6ZWVO8tg6Mdc5B9cvRf7G4wcN1fQBz99Wx-RLnwRGLnQ11WUESlFRSVFjUnr_QjlTw1RjGANXW3ZWbCWI/s1600/IMG_3810.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOq_UOBe2qf6vQi4nPA0x5eawsCzK8rnNSxtxHy9cVwRIR9ypCnzWq-OqXhX6ZWVO8tg6Mdc5B9cvRf7G4wcN1fQBz99Wx-RLnwRGLnQ11WUESlFRSVFjUnr_QjlTw1RjGANXW3ZWbCWI/s1600/IMG_3810.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8cVPB1JMGAxaRdQbDvVPQSbZxULSBFIYUC8TU2_-_6CKy1koDpmPDv_AHhUHErDJkKuCJ7dp7FPL6C6kpFAWi4zOXaOQBZ7fjBV7ZQdoFDUW8Sk96DdaA9auJbWvU6O4UsWRISwcxtVA/s1600/improvednightvision.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8cVPB1JMGAxaRdQbDvVPQSbZxULSBFIYUC8TU2_-_6CKy1koDpmPDv_AHhUHErDJkKuCJ7dp7FPL6C6kpFAWi4zOXaOQBZ7fjBV7ZQdoFDUW8Sk96DdaA9auJbWvU6O4UsWRISwcxtVA/s1600/improvednightvision.JPG" height="203" width="320" /></a><br />
The 50 degree cameras had IR LED boards that could hold 30 LED's, but only had 18. The 90 degree boards have 18 LED's and no extra holes. I decided to experiment, and I took one of the 50 degree boards and added 12 more LED's. These LED's I mounted at an angle to reduce the bright spot in the center of the night view. Notice in the picture below how the LED's are angled out. <br />
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I installed this board in one of the 90 degree cameras, and it made a huge difference.<br />
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Compare this picture to the other night pictures. It is unfortunate that Lorex did not use 30 LED's for they would have a much better product. <br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7412846647818539522.post-47151587078343314412014-03-13T18:27:00.000-07:002014-03-15T18:26:26.941-07:00My Fiber Optic Polishing MachineI do research with lasers and fiber optics, and I needed a polishing machine customized to meet my needs. I started with an old Fibertek machine, which could only polish standard fiber connectors.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidYAYWR1VQ55s9DEBatTR3uPryItodA6LBRypk8djAVdw654379LTjbfYpHaW_rkRxM2tfy3qyZNSQ3yhFqokIdUXaHqItB6iYReJWeKQXE4esr3EugXrhxvTLcN_QDQ5ptsHlBPUBaqs/s1600/DSCN3418.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidYAYWR1VQ55s9DEBatTR3uPryItodA6LBRypk8djAVdw654379LTjbfYpHaW_rkRxM2tfy3qyZNSQ3yhFqokIdUXaHqItB6iYReJWeKQXE4esr3EugXrhxvTLcN_QDQ5ptsHlBPUBaqs/s1600/DSCN3418.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW8mp6l5PUVt4fs7DNP8blg1GCZDL31Mt5-UgOwkL28-nlLj6E5jWPwtFdvCvM7ujwUF74VbGFNrCDKr_vtlVrwVzWIPbe1MqbNnR7eJBWJpBSQuTipGQ-uPpAhh_PSzO7po4V5FO-4zA/s1600/DSCN3419.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW8mp6l5PUVt4fs7DNP8blg1GCZDL31Mt5-UgOwkL28-nlLj6E5jWPwtFdvCvM7ujwUF74VbGFNrCDKr_vtlVrwVzWIPbe1MqbNnR7eJBWJpBSQuTipGQ-uPpAhh_PSzO7po4V5FO-4zA/s1600/DSCN3419.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a><br />
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I need to be able to keep my parts perfectly vertical, and also have control over how hard the parts pressed on the polishing pad. I made a guide using 4 hardened stainless posts with linear bearings. A dial indicator measures the polish depth, and counterweights in the rear control the pressure. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdkNmh9tZ-GR6SHAPn6sV_O5xj4vzgATmgc-e12EJgQZ-j3EVhYTEkLgM8fYKuFMpG0_PIHv-cc5_Fye28yTUZ8EmdunqKIO7UJxV8n3tJ34VYdtt2MIplGVMx2tsOeqQaH6XzWrDjtZk/s1600/Polisher+Side+View.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdkNmh9tZ-GR6SHAPn6sV_O5xj4vzgATmgc-e12EJgQZ-j3EVhYTEkLgM8fYKuFMpG0_PIHv-cc5_Fye28yTUZ8EmdunqKIO7UJxV8n3tJ34VYdtt2MIplGVMx2tsOeqQaH6XzWrDjtZk/s1600/Polisher+Side+View.jpg" height="179" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixN2vFC_MNBmstLvbqwg17PkIN2aCXWLSFmXzyDogYdHRR_0ZV_Fjf_yctxC5Y9XMFh5KYuNrf65xeWFTIVo4fuPBsfdKk1JLwJBbEewFsBeadSFLSIhiJL7zeVF5ph0mPWA5Ii36zAJ0/s1600/DSCN2982.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixN2vFC_MNBmstLvbqwg17PkIN2aCXWLSFmXzyDogYdHRR_0ZV_Fjf_yctxC5Y9XMFh5KYuNrf65xeWFTIVo4fuPBsfdKk1JLwJBbEewFsBeadSFLSIhiJL7zeVF5ph0mPWA5Ii36zAJ0/s1600/DSCN2982.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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This circular cut was made on the mill using a rotary table. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5ZCPBmVvcls95PL727dvqK8Nxuo1csPQDPCNo5ebCyJGo7dPw2zO3dyskmB4w4yX5sFj938K1vrQTp0zbsuNR0uH-WDzkRNmFfChqC9z2GlVLIdf0P_heOk_tjHfw9WIz2Fden2lmD8s/s1600/DSCN2984.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5ZCPBmVvcls95PL727dvqK8Nxuo1csPQDPCNo5ebCyJGo7dPw2zO3dyskmB4w4yX5sFj938K1vrQTp0zbsuNR0uH-WDzkRNmFfChqC9z2GlVLIdf0P_heOk_tjHfw9WIz2Fden2lmD8s/s1600/DSCN2984.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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The accuracy of the rotary table cut approaches that of a lathe. Here a lathe cut part fits inside with about 0.002" clearance.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYapSTa1jS0tTycKWWqasm8mV_mnidsfn-Gf9_Fzvf_v1R6T8WPlbXGrqu0CBpCgH5XFUdyS8u90r8DdfiQlHP-eW0Wf747e628TqAIOeei7_0GMGqCOAc4pS9k1kq2nFELSJnNTD1yCY/s1600/IMG_3375.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYapSTa1jS0tTycKWWqasm8mV_mnidsfn-Gf9_Fzvf_v1R6T8WPlbXGrqu0CBpCgH5XFUdyS8u90r8DdfiQlHP-eW0Wf747e628TqAIOeei7_0GMGqCOAc4pS9k1kq2nFELSJnNTD1yCY/s1600/IMG_3375.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
Here is a partially completed fixture that will hold 10 items in the polisher. The pie shaped pieces will each hold a single part, and they can be removed without disturbing the other parts. They are held by a single screw at the small end, and a dovetail at the big end. All of the holes were done with the bolt hole function on my Shumatech DRO. Here I did not use the rotary table at all, for it was much easier to program the Shumatech. <br />
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The outside diameters and the dovetails were cut on the lathe. Then I cut the upper disc into the pie shaped pieces using a bandsaw, and then I milled the saw cut edges smooth.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA2pmbeYJFEQSbARkrzSNSwZzm-CnY08VSQtTNya9rQqYUyQJD6U5Ke5xnUg5YojI5hHGActqiWppMAQzv0n9-vvdN0iBsZPmLCnKBkWAsvtyph28xyP6JWz7A9bUquwDnoayMdYv_92k/s1600/20140311_103525%5B1%5D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA2pmbeYJFEQSbARkrzSNSwZzm-CnY08VSQtTNya9rQqYUyQJD6U5Ke5xnUg5YojI5hHGActqiWppMAQzv0n9-vvdN0iBsZPmLCnKBkWAsvtyph28xyP6JWz7A9bUquwDnoayMdYv_92k/s1600/20140311_103525%5B1%5D.jpg" height="200" width="112" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVyaaCnmtZocKm_i2w3yqgt_bv_UxfMQ69JsJ_pERm1UmUXz4bgDJ1JXpfjCGkw7IAh-Jd9KEOJgwrwtkgQHbZydrt87_MqXP-GMZJJopn2K5l8qZSoAlTafMA-WNmgcRheye1I61N424/s1600/20140311_104130%5B1%5D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVyaaCnmtZocKm_i2w3yqgt_bv_UxfMQ69JsJ_pERm1UmUXz4bgDJ1JXpfjCGkw7IAh-Jd9KEOJgwrwtkgQHbZydrt87_MqXP-GMZJJopn2K5l8qZSoAlTafMA-WNmgcRheye1I61N424/s1600/20140311_104130%5B1%5D.jpg" height="200" width="112" /></a> My<a href="http://robertsprojects.blogspot.com/2010/02/mini-lathe-modifications.html" target="_blank"> high powered lathe</a> has no trouble turning these diameters, even in steel. However, it puts about 300% more stress on the drive belt pulley as does a 7x10 or 7x12 lathe. The pulley finally failed, so I ordered a replacement from Little Machine Shop. Here is a picture of how the belt connects to my gear reduction unit. Someday I will make a metal replacement pulley. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLvwgHLrPEd2mzgTdBNqUXfimLuLczhvJ9QN2ysRIPe3Se-te_SmBcl2BpDsMnjqz5AldRKakK4BXOGNx1heeON8Qq3xvK_J_cw7W6zSmLsCTF_EZbGMChFimcv-88sxoZloPSb4-Ez_Q/s1600/mt+hole+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLvwgHLrPEd2mzgTdBNqUXfimLuLczhvJ9QN2ysRIPe3Se-te_SmBcl2BpDsMnjqz5AldRKakK4BXOGNx1heeON8Qq3xvK_J_cw7W6zSmLsCTF_EZbGMChFimcv-88sxoZloPSb4-Ez_Q/s1600/mt+hole+2.jpg" height="160" width="200" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwVBfREDZsfF2ncm8yNew0fELb9czExe7forCeifDcDXArd8jxP4VHWdFlJIbBV8r_rqz3FCG1S-44kSUj5jostOROqghW2wurGPXXKMLNJUniWivQeHNLA0ahi7r8bPbkuwxUAxrkk68/s1600/rectangular+mt+hole.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwVBfREDZsfF2ncm8yNew0fELb9czExe7forCeifDcDXArd8jxP4VHWdFlJIbBV8r_rqz3FCG1S-44kSUj5jostOROqghW2wurGPXXKMLNJUniWivQeHNLA0ahi7r8bPbkuwxUAxrkk68/s1600/rectangular+mt+hole.jpg" height="160" width="200" /></a><br />
I needed a way to hold an optical fiber connector, known as an MT connector, very accurately, and with no free play. The MT's measure 3mm high x 6 mm wide. Here is one in a rectangular hole I made with tolerances of 0.1mm<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghDR3l6hdq00j63UmGjdceq8QpEmDvNLFzphQd5g_6lIKMs6DIt_TyuWpcJGLpgg3tzAmfhA54JsZePS4DXyoGTKHWLm2rzsJ9oTfw9QQKl03t_BH5x_S2xqS8BDrtXke79gtw-_bnOqo/s1600/IMG_2746.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghDR3l6hdq00j63UmGjdceq8QpEmDvNLFzphQd5g_6lIKMs6DIt_TyuWpcJGLpgg3tzAmfhA54JsZePS4DXyoGTKHWLm2rzsJ9oTfw9QQKl03t_BH5x_S2xqS8BDrtXke79gtw-_bnOqo/s1600/IMG_2746.JPG" height="149" width="200" /></a></div>
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I began by milling a slot slightly smaller than the MT's dimensions. Then I drove a rectangular punch I made from a hardened steel bolt into the slot. Even though my method was crude - I drove the punch in with a ball pein hammer - I had good repeatability from one part to the next. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT3Sf3UgqqnB6xoqqqR8iV0zWayyQCnp2eyYU8wrskx1xinplc2fPx4oDNpr_3KCrngHFSLeBcQSkCKQdwYlgvAWBZvNWIhj4Rn8ZpeJ-s8nT6e0GMyr-pX6MrM64qlkJEVxwfTYRiL8A/s1600/IMG_2745.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT3Sf3UgqqnB6xoqqqR8iV0zWayyQCnp2eyYU8wrskx1xinplc2fPx4oDNpr_3KCrngHFSLeBcQSkCKQdwYlgvAWBZvNWIhj4Rn8ZpeJ-s8nT6e0GMyr-pX6MrM64qlkJEVxwfTYRiL8A/s1600/IMG_2745.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9OAHFzGfUVFx6wKZowKC2O8wImBc8SBwTdJ8XbbbHoGF5yPZHKKt98ShZr-tcekYFo7QtVrwgKSCJzqN8Q5g2jsNMji0zU4jAxrQJKHFXowhZY9gADuRuSCW1qlxr2k0zoG1Y25LYpVo/s1600/IMG_2786.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9OAHFzGfUVFx6wKZowKC2O8wImBc8SBwTdJ8XbbbHoGF5yPZHKKt98ShZr-tcekYFo7QtVrwgKSCJzqN8Q5g2jsNMji0zU4jAxrQJKHFXowhZY9gADuRuSCW1qlxr2k0zoG1Y25LYpVo/s1600/IMG_2786.JPG" height="298" width="400" /></a></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7412846647818539522.post-54025387283587575212014-02-22T18:46:00.001-08:002014-02-22T18:46:25.327-08:00Installing a Harbor Freight Winch on my John Deere 316<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I decided to install a winch on the rear of my JD316 to help me should I get stuck while plowing deep snow, and for other uses like pulling logs and other large items. I chose a Harbor Freight Badlands 2000 pound winch. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHni6NxWLgHf6x3yG8eCLd8smqdX-MXqizGLsXm0UOc2Ifj_1Sfb6fDur1rb-I1nbTmHAY9NujCRDC5Xa4DTz7eeIS_lnYthZWtBcIOzhqG8QDFEZSQC6e3Wd7OEAEOZ2vRn8Te3b3jBM/s1600/IMG_3109.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHni6NxWLgHf6x3yG8eCLd8smqdX-MXqizGLsXm0UOc2Ifj_1Sfb6fDur1rb-I1nbTmHAY9NujCRDC5Xa4DTz7eeIS_lnYthZWtBcIOzhqG8QDFEZSQC6e3Wd7OEAEOZ2vRn8Te3b3jBM/s400/IMG_3109.JPG" height="298" width="400" /></a>Since the tractor did not have a suitable mounting point, and the fairlead for the cable needed to be mounted also, I built an aluminum enclosure that solves both problems, along with solving a third problem. The winch is mounted under the tractor's plastic fuel tank and I did not want to risk damaging the tank in case of a cable break or other mishap. The half inch thick aluminum housing completely encloses the cable spool and protects the fuel tank. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBe0fEdAIvk2krZ6SzQq4UyZxj0ek-tEYJhFZDAdAR3YEsatuiSyYhjG9t41nO-91XJIVtX2uRXV2MhRWH2MexVUuH28GJPh6llyZM-iDUsQngh0FunuZDv14sUvgCsh5I0h4OQJ9MDEc/s1600/IMG_3112.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBe0fEdAIvk2krZ6SzQq4UyZxj0ek-tEYJhFZDAdAR3YEsatuiSyYhjG9t41nO-91XJIVtX2uRXV2MhRWH2MexVUuH28GJPh6llyZM-iDUsQngh0FunuZDv14sUvgCsh5I0h4OQJ9MDEc/s400/IMG_3112.JPG" height="298" width="400" /></a>Here is a picture of the disassembled winch and housing.The housing is made from 1/2 inch x 6 inch aluminum. I chose half inch aluminum because it is thick enough to drill into the sides and tap holes for 1/4-28 bolts, and the bolt holes can be counter-bored to make them flush with the surface.<br />
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I installed it on the tractor, and realized I did not like how close the winch motor was to the rear wheels and the tire chains, which occasionally come loose. So, it was back to the workshop for some modifications. I made a motor housing from 1/4 inch aluminum.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXsaWJl8UOwLLmAlpxguw_SqpK0CwQs9pnwbItacQfhHbKHhjvX0LL1in-60J92pnrV6XoF_vX0mIQafQwQIkIBPGCY0i2ASN_er7aSvuJ1lu3gYqM-Wgn34Zs5_chaqrLQhKjAKofhPE/s1600/IMG_3348.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXsaWJl8UOwLLmAlpxguw_SqpK0CwQs9pnwbItacQfhHbKHhjvX0LL1in-60J92pnrV6XoF_vX0mIQafQwQIkIBPGCY0i2ASN_er7aSvuJ1lu3gYqM-Wgn34Zs5_chaqrLQhKjAKofhPE/s1600/IMG_3348.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
Here is a view with the cover off, and then with it on. This will also protect the motor from collisions with things that I might back into. As I use this tractor for many purposes, and sometimes on rough ground or among weeds and bushes, the protection might come in handy someday. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji8GIBji1692hQaYw5rYZN1m_nJw9O6wJRPYvGc9sOeF5oVMuK3JGUBe6hlZMLOqJZf7CCNKvRhkSAFCQnRztr-7OG8V7Q__fLJPvrfF4JQgHhxrXbcRc1HhXo_KNK1AM9PRX2Tb2Fh2c/s1600/IMG_3351.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji8GIBji1692hQaYw5rYZN1m_nJw9O6wJRPYvGc9sOeF5oVMuK3JGUBe6hlZMLOqJZf7CCNKvRhkSAFCQnRztr-7OG8V7Q__fLJPvrfF4JQgHhxrXbcRc1HhXo_KNK1AM9PRX2Tb2Fh2c/s1600/IMG_3351.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVy_L77MMYqQsbthBYO3G7Qyp4W3a5DWGmIxHMz5faZuH0MpwRWWGAE0K7gVhc-kslzVYHFtJpsDJ0pTx_jK9YOHfu8WGFTSJyrBrVVPHHDLumb9NSrDJdfEZkFuZ2g-Tss1II2j57hVI/s1600/IMG_3282.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVy_L77MMYqQsbthBYO3G7Qyp4W3a5DWGmIxHMz5faZuH0MpwRWWGAE0K7gVhc-kslzVYHFtJpsDJ0pTx_jK9YOHfu8WGFTSJyrBrVVPHHDLumb9NSrDJdfEZkFuZ2g-Tss1II2j57hVI/s1600/IMG_3282.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiefVbyHOrMNtmPeKzFXg-0Fkas9QTsSaN-f_b3yLamFTqXtglw7nYbh5DlX4S9GjMTOAF8U5azu23nJbH3rhA-MA4oJvperOr1XFpBfmt3HWeg58wiKvP8EfskFVr8Y5LHmpmLhBlAgI/s1600/IMG_3283.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiefVbyHOrMNtmPeKzFXg-0Fkas9QTsSaN-f_b3yLamFTqXtglw7nYbh5DlX4S9GjMTOAF8U5azu23nJbH3rhA-MA4oJvperOr1XFpBfmt3HWeg58wiKvP8EfskFVr8Y5LHmpmLhBlAgI/s1600/IMG_3283.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a><br />
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I also decided to add a rear facing light, mounted in the cutout area in the fuel tank. I will never have whatever accessory John Deere made this cutout for, so I will use it as a place for my light. I made the bracket from 1/4 inch aluminum, and it will also provide some additional protection for the fuel tank. <br />
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The light is a modified Harbor Freight flashlight. <br />
At $2.50, it is a bright, and cheap light. <br />
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Finding a place for the relay box was a challenge. I eventually settled on a spot below the PTO switch and above the hydraulic valves. <br />
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This unit does not have a wireless remote. I made a place to hold the wire for the control switch behind the instrument panel. When stretched out, it reaches the rear of the tractor.<br />
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The winch had no trouble dragging the tractor across the pavement, with the rear wheels locked and the plow lowered to the point where the font wheels were off the ground. With the plow on, and all the weights added, the tractor weighs a little over 1,000 pounds. I am confident that the winch will be able to pull me out of most problems I might get into. <br />
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Unfortunately the winch was not finished in time for our great blizzard of 2014. I did get stuck once, and had to shovel it out. But now I am ready for the next storm!<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7412846647818539522.post-43684565027092753912013-11-28T10:30:00.000-08:002013-11-29T20:13:47.059-08:00My Quad Copter<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I have built my first quad copter after looking at a bewildering array of information about helicopters, aka drones. Here are the decisions a newcomer must make. <br />
How many propellers? Three, four, six, or eight? <br />
What size propellers and motors to use? <br />
What size battery?<br />
What type of flight controller? A Hoverfly? A MultiWii? An APM Copter? and others I probably haven't heard of. <br />
What type of construction? Aluminum? Carbon Fiber? Plastic? Someone even made one of Styrofoam.<br />
Since my goal was to be able to carry a GoPro camera, that set the basic requirement. A copter big enough to lift 250 grams and stable for photography. Since quads appear to be the most common design, as well as the simplest, I chose to build a quad. I consider tri copters more complicated than quads because one motor and propeller unit must be tilted by a servo.<br />
The frame construction was an easy choice for me. Since I have metalworking capabilities, I decided on an aluminum frame. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigA4QiY1VsHRedkjkJBujj8GNlCN1W9d4HYV-pRWsPFuiV6Mt9B2AvDrCfB071riQuqNQTRE6AQh0aNjgFRWSQ4-FnJ08Aai_uRGOca4kBvjcmMx8STSGhigHJ3TPqLATw2fHKitrrCdk/s1600/IMG_2784.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigA4QiY1VsHRedkjkJBujj8GNlCN1W9d4HYV-pRWsPFuiV6Mt9B2AvDrCfB071riQuqNQTRE6AQh0aNjgFRWSQ4-FnJ08Aai_uRGOca4kBvjcmMx8STSGhigHJ3TPqLATw2fHKitrrCdk/s320/IMG_2784.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Next was choosing a motor and propeller combination. I saw a quad using <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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</xml><![endif]--><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">NTM 28-26A 1200kv motors and 9 x 4.7 props, so I went with that. It was a good choice, for my quad was stable from the first flight.</span><br />
<br />
For a battery, I chose a Turnigy 3000 milliamp hour, 40 amp battery. This is a good battery, but the flight time is only 10 minutes. Next time I will go a little larger. I added a low voltage alarm, but next time I will simply add a buzzer to the MultiWii board.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrAK0fbazw_29R-WHOKt4DRl8JHtH9zJvTj4OCozAbMRB1TCk2AcLRxOwblyPv9-_it9rafxMjoEgUkmSuRHpjsIcqBmStXrPeW1mXKW2ZlUAFhF3XroeFKX8h_HmMyJZv_fNYNrZK2l0/s1600/IMG_1209.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrAK0fbazw_29R-WHOKt4DRl8JHtH9zJvTj4OCozAbMRB1TCk2AcLRxOwblyPv9-_it9rafxMjoEgUkmSuRHpjsIcqBmStXrPeW1mXKW2ZlUAFhF3XroeFKX8h_HmMyJZv_fNYNrZK2l0/s320/IMG_1209.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">Next, a flight controller. Since I learned about Hoverfly products before I became aware of the other choices, I went with a Hoverfly Sport. It is a good, ready to fly board, but is more expensive than most and has only one added feature, an ultrasonic altitude control. Unfortunately, it does not have auto level, which is helpful for inexperienced pilots. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">I decided to replace the Hoverfly board with a MultiWii board from Hobby King. It is loaded with features, and is only $27. Containing both gyros and accelerometers, a compass, and a barometer, </span><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">it gives you a lot for your money. </span>. The MultiWii software has auto level, heading hold using the compass, and altitude hold using the barometer.</span><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxxkyw8glMs2_K46odxdAdKekg-pww8vdvb821JzucHZ5h2X32qnlaeN1k6Px53qlLV8BSbDf4aYq1ZAIpMlFZM3vdxRVKJ2NI6jjFCt-Csb02pK-EHHegPi6wRNfBUtFZT4o-KF2Rkuk/s1600/IMG_3010.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="177" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxxkyw8glMs2_K46odxdAdKekg-pww8vdvb821JzucHZ5h2X32qnlaeN1k6Px53qlLV8BSbDf4aYq1ZAIpMlFZM3vdxRVKJ2NI6jjFCt-Csb02pK-EHHegPi6wRNfBUtFZT4o-KF2Rkuk/s320/IMG_3010.JPG" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">Here is the MultiWii board connected to a 6 channel Spektrum receiver:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">One thing I like is that the board and the receiver can be powered by the USB cable. This makes programming and troubleshooting easy, for there is no need to have the motors, ESC's or battery attached. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"> I removed the pin headers and soldered short PWM cables directly to the board. Knowledgeable readers will realize that the black and red wires are redundant. Only one of each is needed. But the weight savings is minimal, and I felt that having complete cables for each channel might make troubleshooting easier. </span><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH83qmI545NHp9A_z5gxsCSYJumiNVahvq6ztFI8ZlvHo-yM6j9OJfjfdZ6zIn4LF6fPdsESSAdfi4q1-noR3bAdPsqOcUM-tNLsUtJ01Q9JR6sEPccHM_5BAPRXdmg3OEiCruj4R4e6E/s1600/IMG_3033.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="137" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH83qmI545NHp9A_z5gxsCSYJumiNVahvq6ztFI8ZlvHo-yM6j9OJfjfdZ6zIn4LF6fPdsESSAdfi4q1-noR3bAdPsqOcUM-tNLsUtJ01Q9JR6sEPccHM_5BAPRXdmg3OEiCruj4R4e6E/s320/IMG_3033.JPG" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"> I soon tired of attaching a USB cable, so I bought an MWC Bluetooth board. At only $8.30 including shipping, it is a bargain. It comes preconfigured for the MultiWii baud rate of 115200. The Bluetooth pair code for these boards is 0000. It worked instantly on my Toshiba laptop running Windows 7. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">Here is a screenshot of MultiWii Config while communicating through the Bluetooth connection. On my laptop, the connection uses COM42. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgei05pgNnMKZn-HS9PpcVJrIGFSSV4lXxZcqictyc2qq-9NZiXszswbde8sdE2q75UeE_A4YECK2vEJ8oIrUUqaPudysnW1YyVg_bIlqWV8Pjdkb0HsNFpM6Jg1ub27hp9E4epOMkiwHc/s1600/MultiWii+Config.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgei05pgNnMKZn-HS9PpcVJrIGFSSV4lXxZcqictyc2qq-9NZiXszswbde8sdE2q75UeE_A4YECK2vEJ8oIrUUqaPudysnW1YyVg_bIlqWV8Pjdkb0HsNFpM6Jg1ub27hp9E4epOMkiwHc/s400/MultiWii+Config.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"> </span><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFgn8uT3khltV_B1YYF612q-MD9zV5yWCIJDsmb65jgIz4pNjLj5KAr2lV5yxXpPQEF8-9YodigXBe_mVWUsUhidIAeSXpYien62APOOEhoXxljoMZ8YzF8N84F-rmha13J64Bmzir47k/s1600/IMG_2972.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="231" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFgn8uT3khltV_B1YYF612q-MD9zV5yWCIJDsmb65jgIz4pNjLj5KAr2lV5yxXpPQEF8-9YodigXBe_mVWUsUhidIAeSXpYien62APOOEhoXxljoMZ8YzF8N84F-rmha13J64Bmzir47k/s320/IMG_2972.JPG" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">Having settled on a quad, I began the </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">design of the frame. I did not care for the nearly universally used construction of a rigid center consisting of one or two plates with arms bolted to them, for I consider it inefficient and heavy. Also I wanted to make my quad fold, and that design generally requires all four arms to be loosened and pivoted. My design eliminates the need for the heavy center section by by using two long spars attached in the center instead of four short ones. Now my center section does not carry any flight loads, and primarily serves as a protection for the electronics. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuZRSrxn1ByIMCfebTAb5wYfQTm0VMuJSg1-hR4KLvTvSjQu96ZlWXnrXz7wf4sfjHYZAH8bNiuqgmzaggIbrSk_TALr2OyJQpZP5Mjcvok-IcW_c2ICKJJQs1nHx9VRz9NmrA0syVdRo/s1600/IMG_2823.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuZRSrxn1ByIMCfebTAb5wYfQTm0VMuJSg1-hR4KLvTvSjQu96ZlWXnrXz7wf4sfjHYZAH8bNiuqgmzaggIbrSk_TALr2OyJQpZP5Mjcvok-IcW_c2ICKJJQs1nHx9VRz9NmrA0syVdRo/s320/IMG_2823.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
The bottom of my center section is an aluminum sheet about as thick as a beer can. I rolled the edges for stiffness. The flight control board is attached to the two studs seen in the picture of the bare frame. Using only two mounting points for the board has worked well. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyIXdO9956Y2MdLGoYX6vyl6O2YWGfDr1Lv_8Xj27aWjlSVWx2doj4vAED5xQl7oeAOO8l1T41KWfiuHvFTvK7q8tk2BthdgVQJ2lqwSLxFwlbANM3zm93M18KCrPViNhT2AJlBq9mTVY/s1600/IMG_2805.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyIXdO9956Y2MdLGoYX6vyl6O2YWGfDr1Lv_8Xj27aWjlSVWx2doj4vAED5xQl7oeAOO8l1T41KWfiuHvFTvK7q8tk2BthdgVQJ2lqwSLxFwlbANM3zm93M18KCrPViNhT2AJlBq9mTVY/s320/IMG_2805.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"> The ESC's are attached to the arms, and allow the arms to be folded, as seen here:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">This version never flew. I became aware of Hobby King's 12.8mm x 12.8 mm aluminum tubing, which was far lighter than my aluminum C channel with its 2mm thick walls. So I used my thick aluminum only where necessary: For the center section and the motor mounts. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgL-gHxdsHRyo6YZGq2Z-chpkQJP2IuO9L1TToKMeYDk6DUZNUIs8lpSOP1SFmAWa6QYUppwp7pYx8k3ehDGxowGXJwSVzweG1rKWE4KV8KrBk2BvXrQaKCx7bV3lanRzvSjytr5gVG14/s1600/DSCN3940.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgL-gHxdsHRyo6YZGq2Z-chpkQJP2IuO9L1TToKMeYDk6DUZNUIs8lpSOP1SFmAWa6QYUppwp7pYx8k3ehDGxowGXJwSVzweG1rKWE4KV8KrBk2BvXrQaKCx7bV3lanRzvSjytr5gVG14/s320/DSCN3940.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">The joints are epoxied with J-B Weld, and have proven to be exceptionally strong. I have had a few mishaps while learning to fly, and while I bent a few pieces, these joints never failed. The tongue of the machined part is 12 mm long, and has grooves to match the internal ribs of the HK tubing:</span><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA-4SYBKDbzDWfp_UTOMdt3z9eI5phFW5i1vl9qENoOnV0NCWmF9V5AsBA_c1cA1_H2nNWY55GRTshxeumFai2zY1AF2Q0rfPZG3_5j2pAkvLMU_JUaDO6bjs3jfsgyqlGJhnXbwPYnJI/s1600/DSCN3941.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="156" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA-4SYBKDbzDWfp_UTOMdt3z9eI5phFW5i1vl9qENoOnV0NCWmF9V5AsBA_c1cA1_H2nNWY55GRTshxeumFai2zY1AF2Q0rfPZG3_5j2pAkvLMU_JUaDO6bjs3jfsgyqlGJhnXbwPYnJI/s200/DSCN3941.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfCHWndU4wkZSvS1gryvOWCQ3b7v1LkN7i5Fx7ZihttWTsjs8PyIPAEewHHrQizR6EcW1uzqVLG-yswz7F6RayUradzbmE9BhYIxEKTgU0lJQ6iJcmNhb4QPcPtCv_CSbtHsKHuTuRnq0/s1600/DSCN3946.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="105" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfCHWndU4wkZSvS1gryvOWCQ3b7v1LkN7i5Fx7ZihttWTsjs8PyIPAEewHHrQizR6EcW1uzqVLG-yswz7F6RayUradzbmE9BhYIxEKTgU0lJQ6iJcmNhb4QPcPtCv_CSbtHsKHuTuRnq0/s200/DSCN3946.JPG" width="200" /></a><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">These pieces are for the camera mount. I used the same design for all of the epoxied joints.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhodarlzzTaEpaIoUnKmbRvCAZCRt2x7YpaurtJ_OwnvwlkR55VvXS8P3kbox6B9JGHof2Rbc6XdoKvWUBxQkqSXYMrKrXnaZzt60Eth6-45KSxyaszXNineB9GGSF9fBQ3izrmjzxax6s/s1600/IMG_2976.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="184" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhodarlzzTaEpaIoUnKmbRvCAZCRt2x7YpaurtJ_OwnvwlkR55VvXS8P3kbox6B9JGHof2Rbc6XdoKvWUBxQkqSXYMrKrXnaZzt60Eth6-45KSxyaszXNineB9GGSF9fBQ3izrmjzxax6s/s320/IMG_2976.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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The motor wires run inside the tubing. The connectors fit inside, but must be inserted one at a time to get through the small opening in the motor mount.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7pCoAABsS4WPOzz3SuH2wmDWqFuQJRJDGxcjvVoC9DXH8yVADM6CHyVR9I96taGCTyq2f4TKlMqREHFPNCh6zM_HBeq9t00tD_Zn4W939qqRKPDptS9r1PbGCKE2KGkFzqKc5JvszX_M/s1600/IMG_2977.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="190" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7pCoAABsS4WPOzz3SuH2wmDWqFuQJRJDGxcjvVoC9DXH8yVADM6CHyVR9I96taGCTyq2f4TKlMqREHFPNCh6zM_HBeq9t00tD_Zn4W939qqRKPDptS9r1PbGCKE2KGkFzqKc5JvszX_M/s320/IMG_2977.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Because I had a lot of #16 wire, I used it, but doubled it. That is why there are two wires going to the connectors. <br />
Attaching the motors with only 2 screws has worked well. The motor ends are stainless steel, and very strong. The 3mm stainless socket head screws are quite strong, too. I have not had any problem with motors coming loose.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFPC0cftKp8M9DCxnYfm2mriodXG0UTKeFuyxeas3JbuEt3nYJWKBek-pwHiX1EJqFYrCxlv3YVrb_2Ej8Jo1fEINuOB1YeaTddlYX0siDGOXS1pMno8QhIFMqrXgy3HjDdxiGTgS1UjU/s1600/IMG_3037.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFPC0cftKp8M9DCxnYfm2mriodXG0UTKeFuyxeas3JbuEt3nYJWKBek-pwHiX1EJqFYrCxlv3YVrb_2Ej8Jo1fEINuOB1YeaTddlYX0siDGOXS1pMno8QhIFMqrXgy3HjDdxiGTgS1UjU/s200/IMG_3037.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
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An aluminum cover secures the wires and protects them from impact should the quad suffer a bad landing. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZIfSzuFVUxvH9hIkZzaCpvK6s_6wah_mB4_HfpYexO_ECA_42v7mLzo44ubvMs68RP6Aif_n0pk4MHjt3wlU2o1Ex51tk2nstEP2G7sLHEUEZ3ZMJGJkNQ7effIjBAriuxPVJB1aGjYo/s1600/IMG_3039.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZIfSzuFVUxvH9hIkZzaCpvK6s_6wah_mB4_HfpYexO_ECA_42v7mLzo44ubvMs68RP6Aif_n0pk4MHjt3wlU2o1Ex51tk2nstEP2G7sLHEUEZ3ZMJGJkNQ7effIjBAriuxPVJB1aGjYo/s200/IMG_3039.JPG" width="128" /></a>The accelerometers should be calibrated frequently, and it is important that the copter be level when this is done. To make this step easier, I attached a small bubble level to one of the arms.<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">Here is a bottom view: </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsYgRanfRu9tB9sgKaxB7zH42IbDgocRUHUKlfAQ1PzyvBmQuRyEpj2GBpbroBTlw_Vq4xhXV0kDZrPD77JMfWCeWTf_3Me_W3qUFyX-Enr6c5u8YA5RKzrTrO717-hZDJ4LpTlSyKELw/s1600/IMG_3036.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsYgRanfRu9tB9sgKaxB7zH42IbDgocRUHUKlfAQ1PzyvBmQuRyEpj2GBpbroBTlw_Vq4xhXV0kDZrPD77JMfWCeWTf_3Me_W3qUFyX-Enr6c5u8YA5RKzrTrO717-hZDJ4LpTlSyKELw/s320/IMG_3036.JPG" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">The camera mount attaches to the center post, which is the backbone that holds everything together. The camera is well protected here, and has an unobstructed view. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWZZahpqrEHrtgDra9NOdhbBG5fvxRLFV4SP_t54mKdaRaGIy2An5I1DyNhQ4rh8kPtQKTzvc5B_2uJ5IphEar6CHIwu1Y-LD7nECDh_K760uNaZLvkETVYT2ZA22BGCYqwnFfql06D_Q/s1600/IMG_3038.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWZZahpqrEHrtgDra9NOdhbBG5fvxRLFV4SP_t54mKdaRaGIy2An5I1DyNhQ4rh8kPtQKTzvc5B_2uJ5IphEar6CHIwu1Y-LD7nECDh_K760uNaZLvkETVYT2ZA22BGCYqwnFfql06D_Q/s200/IMG_3038.JPG" width="161" /></a><br />
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The plugs for the battery pass through holes in the camera mount. This holds them securely and makes connecting and disconnecting the battery easier.<br />
After a few test flights I realized that having the ability to cut power to the board is useful for a few reasons. One is that a hard landing, aka, a "crash", can cause the board's program to freeze and leave a motor running. It is much easier to flip a switch than unplug the battery. Another reason is that you can plug in the battery in without worrying about an accidental arming of the board. Yet another use for the switch is in troubleshooting. Since the board can be powered by the USB cable, the switch can be turned off, which prevents the ESC's from receiving power from the USB. Since the switch is only carrying the current needed to power the flight control board, it can be very small. It can be seen in the lower right corner of this picture. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfPFGdzKz6cPk0zo3a21D6PHILbf0bh5Edx4-O-m-2uYipLuP2n4pkhOQJuEiFT65mwRMBlYPY3eUW1ebvNTxyKG2L8QY3sGhyphenhyphenUHGgpza0ckHVqvFmazZsh-U1-rKLL7arytPPIZdFtL4/s1600/IMG_3031.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfPFGdzKz6cPk0zo3a21D6PHILbf0bh5Edx4-O-m-2uYipLuP2n4pkhOQJuEiFT65mwRMBlYPY3eUW1ebvNTxyKG2L8QY3sGhyphenhyphenUHGgpza0ckHVqvFmazZsh-U1-rKLL7arytPPIZdFtL4/s320/IMG_3031.JPG" width="314" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgze3ycwuE3GIbelh6XlQGc0K4xUmeCBKNEhYoD2aI3iu5oEe3ixfpY_lIjwIq-t2crwG0UT-7M0cJSsW258Evmwhyphenhyphenhwqy0ZtL21-MVpOz3bj9IpljdTpQ3F6rTFh4gaHJ8aaZ_kUlXqLs/s1600/IMG_2817.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="165" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgze3ycwuE3GIbelh6XlQGc0K4xUmeCBKNEhYoD2aI3iu5oEe3ixfpY_lIjwIq-t2crwG0UT-7M0cJSsW258Evmwhyphenhyphenhwqy0ZtL21-MVpOz3bj9IpljdTpQ3F6rTFh4gaHJ8aaZ_kUlXqLs/s200/IMG_2817.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdH0McEu5cBzG6IB9pGB2dvtfgc_2EUnL5j1uD27pMtCcQYIJAO3mb1_AUICnpE0FsqksBS8UtC1wWjam9BjXnwzEOH5GOKgO8GRmYPYtkX5T7Iz98scb7I0DDmvWR1pcG8uRV8qNZakY/s1600/IMG_2818.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="158" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdH0McEu5cBzG6IB9pGB2dvtfgc_2EUnL5j1uD27pMtCcQYIJAO3mb1_AUICnpE0FsqksBS8UtC1wWjam9BjXnwzEOH5GOKgO8GRmYPYtkX5T7Iz98scb7I0DDmvWR1pcG8uRV8qNZakY/s200/IMG_2818.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
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The Hoverfly board can use a sonar for altitude control, so I bought a Max Sonar unit. The board looked fragile for something that needs to be mounted under the copter, so I made a Plexiglas enclosure for it. The sonar worked well, but with limitations. The Hoverfly is programmed to enter a gentle climb when the sonar reading is unreliable. That means if you climb out of range of the sonar, the copter will keep climbing, even if the throttle is set to zero. If this happens, you must be careful to set the throttle to an approximate setting for a hover and then switch back to conventional control. Otherwise, you could lose control of the copter. <br />
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The MultiWii board has no provisions for sonar. However, its other attributes outweigh this shortcoming.<br />
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Here is how I programmed my 6 channel Spektrum transmitter to give me 5 different flight modes with the MultiWii board.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguIWUsgUdM58QeFb8srFXs10Pm5tesyMQjJj96UzQ_JrGIGt1r5g8nc_ZGntHWv6UnDu7N3thzTnd91KxFonhubpAnEVBd_KOD4JXfZfIlJzRafmp_0TrdzCQ_DiuOlRSyPCn1EbFyP0c/s1600/IMG_3013.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="88" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguIWUsgUdM58QeFb8srFXs10Pm5tesyMQjJj96UzQ_JrGIGt1r5g8nc_ZGntHWv6UnDu7N3thzTnd91KxFonhubpAnEVBd_KOD4JXfZfIlJzRafmp_0TrdzCQ_DiuOlRSyPCn1EbFyP0c/s200/IMG_3013.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
Set Gear and Flap sub trim to zero<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-9QHKnna1LaE8SB3pXzNJqsdIvToTyhFfVQLAoVIAA8MNl9UQw8kNt2pKYYRxFdf4WXp1PM6eOyQDifbu4y9KR_FZM-daTymbWXwmb1AJAO8FJEF-yccYI-35zyxovISilE1-WAE2Mrs/s1600/IMG_3014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="86" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-9QHKnna1LaE8SB3pXzNJqsdIvToTyhFfVQLAoVIAA8MNl9UQw8kNt2pKYYRxFdf4WXp1PM6eOyQDifbu4y9KR_FZM-daTymbWXwmb1AJAO8FJEF-yccYI-35zyxovISilE1-WAE2Mrs/s200/IMG_3014.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
Set Flaps to 100% with zero Elevator<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPh4okFdV2a9wvQaDf4sSzN-cxIcgDwoBiuQ-QI_wJ9-EVWaIbkRqneRNiXpyBTLpt5FQ2LtnyypWHRs-1ozyjIVS-fj6LuHfKnYj5LIuAsY3Kr3hyphenhyphenBhkP9SFbxNLxZuygX5k6X338v0s/s1600/IMG_3015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="83" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPh4okFdV2a9wvQaDf4sSzN-cxIcgDwoBiuQ-QI_wJ9-EVWaIbkRqneRNiXpyBTLpt5FQ2LtnyypWHRs-1ozyjIVS-fj6LuHfKnYj5LIuAsY3Kr3hyphenhyphenBhkP9SFbxNLxZuygX5k6X338v0s/s200/IMG_3015.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
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Set Mix 1 to mix Flap with itself. The Flap switch enables mode #2.<br />
Set 100% down and 49% up.<br />
Flap travel is set at 116% up. <br />
I am using the Aileron D/R switch as my mode #3 switch.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHOu2P9XeKT4Jp4luFQgMLwKOEjiAm5BvLZ2ZBne66x0BQHLuzbVjM-2k7itP5w_DB1IiSwhcFysIQuXqM1zy7XmtkOzt3-IgfpdebS6ThFxk4MdtU2114QkugcrIgl65Nyl9JC8EqSwc/s1600/IMG_3016.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="85" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHOu2P9XeKT4Jp4luFQgMLwKOEjiAm5BvLZ2ZBne66x0BQHLuzbVjM-2k7itP5w_DB1IiSwhcFysIQuXqM1zy7XmtkOzt3-IgfpdebS6ThFxk4MdtU2114QkugcrIgl65Nyl9JC8EqSwc/s200/IMG_3016.JPG" width="200" /></a>You may use whatever switch you prefer.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikefRS16Kyk5-EsgYsN_Vy1afqjGmq3Tx0NfFwCnsr2wXsp8O2jul_W3-xt_zmL2x0WRE3VbPPywDHk6WAEYSjq_2WuSVgpjHa4u_Huiy4IIjn-sS6pB4TTFLPgaaXE_DPNCx4lK6vsk4/s1600/IMG_3012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="86" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikefRS16Kyk5-EsgYsN_Vy1afqjGmq3Tx0NfFwCnsr2wXsp8O2jul_W3-xt_zmL2x0WRE3VbPPywDHk6WAEYSjq_2WuSVgpjHa4u_Huiy4IIjn-sS6pB4TTFLPgaaXE_DPNCx4lK6vsk4/s200/IMG_3012.JPG" width="200" /></a>Set Mix 2 to mix Gear with itself. The Gear switch enables mode#4. <br />
Set 9% down and 72% up.<br />
Gear travel is set at 93% up. <br />
I am using the Elevator D/R switch as my mode #5 switch. <br />
I have the following modes set up:<br />
<b>#1: Normal </b>mode.<br />
All switches are off for this mode. <br />
On MuitiWii config, Aux 1 & 2 are approximately 1100.<br />
<b>#2: Horizon</b>: provides a mixture of normal flying and auto level.<br />
The Flap switch is on, the Aileron switch is off. <br />
Aux 1 reads approximately 1900<br />
<b>#3: </b><b><b>Mag</b>: </b>Uses the compass to keep the copter oriented in a particular direction.<br />
The Flap and Aileron switches are both on.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbsE77z8_wEdkJJi-9vVKTSV25TMn4Vo1GcOMA_ahvv93G8iW1mOIHrN79CtlpvMJWGVnoVo8dqx_vTcxzWsQvb6zHQ_iOMWTLAEBcirAhaWR9MXc8wOJ-mLDsRQuI3OzCePq9EHZnwNs/s1600/IMG_3017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="83" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbsE77z8_wEdkJJi-9vVKTSV25TMn4Vo1GcOMA_ahvv93G8iW1mOIHrN79CtlpvMJWGVnoVo8dqx_vTcxzWsQvb6zHQ_iOMWTLAEBcirAhaWR9MXc8wOJ-mLDsRQuI3OzCePq9EHZnwNs/s200/IMG_3017.JPG" width="200" /></a> Aux 1 reads approximately 1500<br />
<b> #4: </b><b>Headfree</b>: Uses the compass to make the copter behave as if it is
always facing away from you. This is helpful for preventing becoming
disoriented in flight.<br />
The Gear switch is on, and the Elevator switch is off.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvw1vHwgMnOaDKtLF35cXKbhr0jFX-PMYHegiBBX3epQ0KGl0EktkWFnZozRqc-wBpD_pVNAX-93FRnrgiihcF3rp5ShdxAc_y6lYBrCo9VAFMXju6PNZcBwGUbatSjivp9GTemMClirc/s1600/IMG_3011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="82" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvw1vHwgMnOaDKtLF35cXKbhr0jFX-PMYHegiBBX3epQ0KGl0EktkWFnZozRqc-wBpD_pVNAX-93FRnrgiihcF3rp5ShdxAc_y6lYBrCo9VAFMXju6PNZcBwGUbatSjivp9GTemMClirc/s200/IMG_3011.JPG" width="200" /></a> Aux 2 reads approximately 1900 <br />
<b>#5:</b> <b>Baro</b>: Uses the barometer to provide altitude control.<br />
The Gear switch and the Elevator switch are both on.<br />
Aux 2 reads approximately 1500<br />
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The Gear and Flaps do not interact with each other. That means you can choose combinations of modes 2 & 3 and 4 & 5. The settings I used, as well as the switches I used are optional. There are many possible combinations. All that is required is that you have settings that will make Aux 1 & 2 have 3 positions of approximately 1100, 1500 and 1900. <br />
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I had to set both the Aileron and Rudder to reverse for proper operation on my quad.<br />
To get my board to arm and disarm, I had to set the Throttle, Rudder, Elevator, and Aileron travel adjustments at their full limits, 125%.<br />
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The quad flies well, and here is the proof, an aerial shot of my house.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjlf5yulIuKewHXxh9ynh_ONfNs5mETzC28Avh5V4RUMXHgRLnPNNcayTcqv5fWDNkwZyRGN1HJrlC9UzqQd8inDW5SurDUhcoeEUaTd0pzvrtOSAC-WzFgQEiDddevkPvPw6YUOUqVJk/s1600/Capture.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjlf5yulIuKewHXxh9ynh_ONfNs5mETzC28Avh5V4RUMXHgRLnPNNcayTcqv5fWDNkwZyRGN1HJrlC9UzqQd8inDW5SurDUhcoeEUaTd0pzvrtOSAC-WzFgQEiDddevkPvPw6YUOUqVJk/s400/Capture.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7412846647818539522.post-78661794127113806722013-04-28T18:50:00.001-07:002013-06-13T18:53:08.538-07:00Mini Mill Solid Column ConversionThe original design Sieg Mini Mill( sold as Harbor Freight, Grizzly,
Little Machine Shop, Micro Mark, and others) featured a tilting column
that few people used. The pivot point and the relatively thin column
allowed for a considerable amount of flex in the machine. I found this
especially troublesome when using a boring head, for its single cutter
creates a highly unbalanced load. I could only take very light cuts, or
the column would flex. Fortunately, Little Machine Shop has been
working with Sieg to improve their products sold under LMS' Hi Torque
brand. First they enlarged the table significantly, then they replaced
the motor and noisy gears with a more modern design. That left one area
to improve, the flexible column.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1B0pB8qSi95D2xcm2IC-J7bsFDL3MYQ3WJgV_PczjmfopdRtApOxB53xYRicwNbJ9wvhFd2uJKwrXvWJXPAyIKxD0ouW_-ce1gWPDK-1oXZKwR3DjwnAkb7Tgo0Ud_bphCaDeklWmJhw/s1600/IMG_0154.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1B0pB8qSi95D2xcm2IC-J7bsFDL3MYQ3WJgV_PczjmfopdRtApOxB53xYRicwNbJ9wvhFd2uJKwrXvWJXPAyIKxD0ouW_-ce1gWPDK-1oXZKwR3DjwnAkb7Tgo0Ud_bphCaDeklWmJhw/s320/IMG_0154.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
The
new solid column is not just the old column with the pivot removed, but
an entirely new and much heavier casting that weighs 11 pounds more
then the old one. 28 vs. 17. That is a huge 64% increase in weight.
The weight is in additional wall thickness.<br />
At left is the original column, where they apparently tried to make it as thin as possible.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhL2KPO0xVU0KAhAie5hVTNg1f_l_vanrfwg3zsmFvYNQvuNd3CDZdvW-WZv_MzKRvqavAXwu1OK5l_pkb-wvj3OtyCn71WpvnFiI5XYseBXhEJbClrZXGAz1O3P_cfO6zx98YmcMzbn0/s1600/IMG_0155.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhL2KPO0xVU0KAhAie5hVTNg1f_l_vanrfwg3zsmFvYNQvuNd3CDZdvW-WZv_MzKRvqavAXwu1OK5l_pkb-wvj3OtyCn71WpvnFiI5XYseBXhEJbClrZXGAz1O3P_cfO6zx98YmcMzbn0/s320/IMG_0155.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here
is the new solid column, with wall thicknesses about double the
original, and a substantial mounting flange cast as one piece, rather
than bolted on as before.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEYhURGom1owxB7aknp_yqMGOP05W4MVhfxwJqq3OeOC2S4GSsro4MLoB0q5ez5pO74kTEcykwS-sTmq1mzTmnhMiKx_fJYCBqruRiowX3vBuGcNzvUdElh546dw8GfoAbOmnYDcn30kU/s1600/IMG_0205.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEYhURGom1owxB7aknp_yqMGOP05W4MVhfxwJqq3OeOC2S4GSsro4MLoB0q5ez5pO74kTEcykwS-sTmq1mzTmnhMiKx_fJYCBqruRiowX3vBuGcNzvUdElh546dw8GfoAbOmnYDcn30kU/s200/IMG_0205.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrezrrD7qAQbmfachtW_nKSejCAcPU1OMpYPZrpNpLZaq0z-BzOh-7hYO7Rmtq-bdNSbPqhJMlaHzGlKgUBOfJGHIyWTY1CmEH8YmzvpfAzgWvPTb-fR-0_DCkPegmG2TnLp5IqKphViw/s1600/IMG_0174.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrezrrD7qAQbmfachtW_nKSejCAcPU1OMpYPZrpNpLZaq0z-BzOh-7hYO7Rmtq-bdNSbPqhJMlaHzGlKgUBOfJGHIyWTY1CmEH8YmzvpfAzgWvPTb-fR-0_DCkPegmG2TnLp5IqKphViw/s320/IMG_0174.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Since
there is much less space inside the column, I had to trim the head of
the bolt holding the gas spring in order to get it to fit inside.<br />
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The
solid column comes with mounting holes for the Hi Torque electronics,
which mount differently than the Harbor Freight electronics. At left is
the unpainted HF column, showing the mounting holes, and the painted Hi
Torque column below it. I drilled the new column to match the HF, see
below. I also drilled a hole for the gas spring conversion. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZFH7iPMBt8ezrhB3mlkMFfQIYsPk1k6vK_3e4KyJdJH4eeXUM-0-fx7B05geFC7AxGu2EAeJ_Y_6xcCRLO1uG-mrr8WoM9QTBHJGSU4k8Hx9J6zbXRgJByELaof3ZvxD6KMJJybJGmwg/s1600/IMG_0176.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZFH7iPMBt8ezrhB3mlkMFfQIYsPk1k6vK_3e4KyJdJH4eeXUM-0-fx7B05geFC7AxGu2EAeJ_Y_6xcCRLO1uG-mrr8WoM9QTBHJGSU4k8Hx9J6zbXRgJByELaof3ZvxD6KMJJybJGmwg/s320/IMG_0176.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Since
I had everything apart, and I am now aware of the added stiffness of
the solid column, I decided to add a spacer to the head which extends
the head out 19 mm and moves it up 20 mm. I made the spacer from a
piece of 3/4 inch aluminum. It has 4 tapped holes and 4 clearance
holes. The spacer bolts to the front half of the head, and then the
rear half bolts to the spacer.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ2EvP7FO1dKoLUkDRwGzcF_UukBA1Au-S8Ne-81xDsY7f3o9-PY8bFWVLqqqVc47pxJ2Nd-QRW1ypIlmn43_FolUTHK2Mtkqn2I5uBX55BE9TEmFxaBWaYQXimDuc6pPI6tOcBtoukuE/s1600/IMG_0182.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ2EvP7FO1dKoLUkDRwGzcF_UukBA1Au-S8Ne-81xDsY7f3o9-PY8bFWVLqqqVc47pxJ2Nd-QRW1ypIlmn43_FolUTHK2Mtkqn2I5uBX55BE9TEmFxaBWaYQXimDuc6pPI6tOcBtoukuE/s320/IMG_0182.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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This mod uses the 4 original 8 mm socket head cap screws and 4 hex head bolts, 8 mm x 35 mm.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh74tjvtlCXp3egDfuVNzBzBoZg3-IgmtcSBOpTCO7rmf4oGXUSus8e8Xa110wW-7H0ErmLQI01Jvq63wn4T8fJit-_mN-RnYbBzs7kdnuLSjuHpf2Aup88rYmQBjg6eoxB04SlcodUxc8/s1600/IMG_0183.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh74tjvtlCXp3egDfuVNzBzBoZg3-IgmtcSBOpTCO7rmf4oGXUSus8e8Xa110wW-7H0ErmLQI01Jvq63wn4T8fJit-_mN-RnYbBzs7kdnuLSjuHpf2Aup88rYmQBjg6eoxB04SlcodUxc8/s320/IMG_0183.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Spacer bolted to front half of head.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_kCsbOqq55GK_VPLW7ePTKMIN5CCjRip_14wW1gX5913i8fQaYl95hMJieqyayNMNseatxH-tRwjzKJUcnUkmrfytiu45h9zm8ojO20GKxZiF7LFqQZ58P9SP5-7BPewRZHZzxAjQ8sU/s1600/IMG_0184.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_kCsbOqq55GK_VPLW7ePTKMIN5CCjRip_14wW1gX5913i8fQaYl95hMJieqyayNMNseatxH-tRwjzKJUcnUkmrfytiu45h9zm8ojO20GKxZiF7LFqQZ58P9SP5-7BPewRZHZzxAjQ8sU/s320/IMG_0184.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Rear
half of head is then bolted to spacer. This picture shows all that is
left of my original Harbor Freight mini mill. Everything else has been
replaced with parts from Little Machine Shop. Even this remnant of the
HF machine has 4 significant mods:<br />
Belt drive conversion.<br />
Gas spring kit<br />
Spring loaded spindle lock<br />
And now my spacer.<br />
Still to be done is the relocation of the fine feed knob. Eventually this will be replaced by a ball screw Z drive. <br />
What does the inside of a mini mill head look like? Here are some pictures:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl0ZCWy31W7ZNSFaolXzlkpinGrBi_RigYV0FVm8sejU4hX9vgeyyMRpyV8kEpNvTsR0EME3x_bdbFXiW5izLzNLSVzZqtGOybAYaVRbe0wAOPq9fB9x5gNIKfzf90IFYYC7460mWsgYk/s1600/IMG_0178.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl0ZCWy31W7ZNSFaolXzlkpinGrBi_RigYV0FVm8sejU4hX9vgeyyMRpyV8kEpNvTsR0EME3x_bdbFXiW5izLzNLSVzZqtGOybAYaVRbe0wAOPq9fB9x5gNIKfzf90IFYYC7460mWsgYk/s320/IMG_0178.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
The
intermediate gears are no longer used. I left them in place, but locked
their position so that they are disengaged from the main shaft. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht1YcT80rYQc7NKRJf1ZCLjvt3o1z5vmUEig-guMk4_lvl051HrPuRwauxQWrw_ZwSjIYtTVzV09j0L-X68rpqjM5qhGxKiQk3Zp02tnpAlIYx2n7Cw2p4jsHF5d4dFETb0iHQ3vWTjQw/s1600/IMG_0179.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht1YcT80rYQc7NKRJf1ZCLjvt3o1z5vmUEig-guMk4_lvl051HrPuRwauxQWrw_ZwSjIYtTVzV09j0L-X68rpqjM5qhGxKiQk3Zp02tnpAlIYx2n7Cw2p4jsHF5d4dFETb0iHQ3vWTjQw/s320/IMG_0179.JPG" width="320" /> </a></div>
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The rear half of the head showing the pinion gear. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEistY52TjX20hN5IS1cUtw5Q8Ur7QNXnH0KXxSNmVXt2_4gc5DJjELQ1Nt62FmZ3kAURcE6l8LOfSp2G1TEL0qJmLpWzAzhNrYWoExLZd5q2IlXilOLoXxkk38fTiD-yKXjf9n3RrfwO4Q/s1600/IMG_0180.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEistY52TjX20hN5IS1cUtw5Q8Ur7QNXnH0KXxSNmVXt2_4gc5DJjELQ1Nt62FmZ3kAURcE6l8LOfSp2G1TEL0qJmLpWzAzhNrYWoExLZd5q2IlXilOLoXxkk38fTiD-yKXjf9n3RrfwO4Q/s320/IMG_0180.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
The finished machine. It is a vastly different mill than the original Harbor Freight mill.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGs2WK9BNFOM2XPg7kYeC-dtZVI0k04LJDjE4tPVU6Ft4m6EIlrpjqvuaBEByIg4aRDWemYTDmRbLS1Q4Bp-DknfoMU8OwlxFa5z6vqz3qDbwQTbgYRvwjvPvK-OlwsnLxli3RpQvtepo/s1600/IMG_0209.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGs2WK9BNFOM2XPg7kYeC-dtZVI0k04LJDjE4tPVU6Ft4m6EIlrpjqvuaBEByIg4aRDWemYTDmRbLS1Q4Bp-DknfoMU8OwlxFa5z6vqz3qDbwQTbgYRvwjvPvK-OlwsnLxli3RpQvtepo/s400/IMG_0209.JPG" width="298" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij2oFY-ifdRUboM4xfz0F5810JvhMZFpv1cfr0VtYeyrFD9DojJQKseSZd2Ap-AQhGAriVrge_lpGVc4y9kXKNOssJDFR5sgyGiPtkipMi-ebfllrRLMBrSoAPVfnMFbZqku3IY201E14/s1600/IMG_0239.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij2oFY-ifdRUboM4xfz0F5810JvhMZFpv1cfr0VtYeyrFD9DojJQKseSZd2Ap-AQhGAriVrge_lpGVc4y9kXKNOssJDFR5sgyGiPtkipMi-ebfllrRLMBrSoAPVfnMFbZqku3IY201E14/s320/IMG_0239.JPG" width="320" /></a>I
put the machine through its paces and while it was much improved, it
still had some head shake under heavy loads. Even though I had the gibs
very tight, when I placed my finger so that I was touching the head and
the column at the same time, I could feel the difference in vibration
between the head and column. This meant the head was moving against the
column. Unlike the gibs for the X and Y axis, where the forces are
mostly pressing the sliding parts together, the head is hanging from the
dovetails on the column. This means that the four 6 mm setscrews are
supporting much of the load, and their contact area is very small. I
added a fifth setscrew, and milled smooth recesses in the back of the
jib where the setscrews press against it. This solved the problem, and
my DRO no longer changes its reading when I tighten the lock..<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0yZDy4EHQEE1jImYRUx0SozzLJKAOHlzM47JdqDy82jB6gLDhbZirv_RSDSz4DrVCteuN7MT7mBIynetql8KbY4Mvb_p-Wmrlh0XLhPSUqoSCLIwlvMaTpcEinbCU-OQ_7ta8tqtLyzI/s1600/IMG_0298.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0yZDy4EHQEE1jImYRUx0SozzLJKAOHlzM47JdqDy82jB6gLDhbZirv_RSDSz4DrVCteuN7MT7mBIynetql8KbY4Mvb_p-Wmrlh0XLhPSUqoSCLIwlvMaTpcEinbCU-OQ_7ta8tqtLyzI/s320/IMG_0298.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
One
thing I did not expect when making the conversion is that the column is
moved nearly 2 inches forward on the solid column base. Here is a
photo of the two bases showing the location of the column on each. With
the pivot assembly gone, Sieg was able to move the column forward where
the pivot used to be. While this would not be a problem for most
users, the column now interfered with my 4 inch vise, which I had
machined to clear the pivot. I decided that the easiest solution was to
change back to the tilt column base and make an adapter to fit the
solid column to it. I wanted my adapter made from cast iron for the same
reasons machinery is made from it. It has good wear and vibration
dampening properties. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixvVnrGrRf75uYsKuezGT3hKaygNAQbcv3X0cyYck0qrET8-rCZbnx5VAlQFAx23kyjVbMr0D0PYl_Haquk1-33EQzV-mheP9Y-QdpBLrtyTrylZu1TDdjB5-YtYeiebPSgunU-wANAz4/s1600/IMG_0292.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixvVnrGrRf75uYsKuezGT3hKaygNAQbcv3X0cyYck0qrET8-rCZbnx5VAlQFAx23kyjVbMr0D0PYl_Haquk1-33EQzV-mheP9Y-QdpBLrtyTrylZu1TDdjB5-YtYeiebPSgunU-wANAz4/s320/IMG_0292.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></div>
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I
scoured my local scrap yard for a suitable piece of cast iron and found
something with nearly perfect dimensions for the job: A 10 pound
barbell weight. At about 8 inches in diameter and nearly an inch thick,
it required a minimum of machining to transform it into an ideal
adapter. First I surfaced both both sides to get them flat and parallel
to each other. Then I cut it square and drilled the holes. I also had
to machine a step in the bottom to match the step on the base.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3qvuRF38aqYjvxLg83RexkCiNpwabzEOhYzFkLUugO0phnvFbQKwUa4mfQz_FXw_IMwmdnQhSg3nBeYgRVK_yYWTWFr_BpFLRrVxQCwsciz2RV3VZwOgkIEQr5FO0UBNp3kiFSmxaNa8/s1600/IMG_0294.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3qvuRF38aqYjvxLg83RexkCiNpwabzEOhYzFkLUugO0phnvFbQKwUa4mfQz_FXw_IMwmdnQhSg3nBeYgRVK_yYWTWFr_BpFLRrVxQCwsciz2RV3VZwOgkIEQr5FO0UBNp3kiFSmxaNa8/s320/IMG_0294.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6XwCpJXu0AQ4UbXh_EQ8HDBiEg5fB2iFfW1KvpgzM_80HVQ6P4aHFnhidVk0zG-0-lVgrM1LMxc2yJ7WUMGO9fsJhYvYKADZTFdcLk8bp08Tds8t_uU-LoLOUiXRnIfvpXMJiBRksAwI/s1600/IMG_0286.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6XwCpJXu0AQ4UbXh_EQ8HDBiEg5fB2iFfW1KvpgzM_80HVQ6P4aHFnhidVk0zG-0-lVgrM1LMxc2yJ7WUMGO9fsJhYvYKADZTFdcLk8bp08Tds8t_uU-LoLOUiXRnIfvpXMJiBRksAwI/s320/IMG_0286.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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Prior
to machining the step, I milled the top of the base flat. This part of
the casting was smoothed with body putty, a trick Chinese manufacturers
have been using for years. I milled the surface down until I had clean
metal, then I machined the step in my adapter to match.<br />
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I
then bolted on my adapter and drilled the holes for the 8mm column
mounting bolts into the base. I drilled these 14mm deep to accommodate
50mm long bolts. After the holes were drilled, I removed the adapter and
applied JB Weld to the rear surface of the base, and reassembled it.<br />
<br />
I did this because I
wanted the adapter and base behave as one piece when I tapped the holes,
and while torquing down the column.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEv6JifspY6kyAWF73Yg6IWaUDIFCI04q1nnHFP6tOlUkj-J6OxB7hi79h3ZaSg97rfzOinNrmrbHX2Y0EaAq19UM-CocKWNusxoONF9GujqsM5c89w7XA9qTFLOXl0WOEdoYoBuDtzec/s1600/IMG_0295.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEv6JifspY6kyAWF73Yg6IWaUDIFCI04q1nnHFP6tOlUkj-J6OxB7hi79h3ZaSg97rfzOinNrmrbHX2Y0EaAq19UM-CocKWNusxoONF9GujqsM5c89w7XA9qTFLOXl0WOEdoYoBuDtzec/s320/IMG_0295.JPG" width="320" /></a>
After the JB Weld cured, I tapped the 8mm holes for the column and
assembled the machine. The column is now moved 0.85 inches toward the
rear compared to a stock solid column mill. This is not as far back as
the location of the tilt column due to the fact that the solid column
has a flange in the rear. However, it is a big improvement over the
location of the stock solid column machine. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRd-JFBMeBi8oWoSatsrxVC9T8RINHvo2QhZbQ_KMLF53FvwmvA-MCPNgeWDPFT9cPjPSk814uDyeNQdoGX-wvWdgaHxRRJ6ESWSyzRjOy2MDLA6iCixG1hhCPMCO2ru6bC5xfOFFwuxE/s1600/IMG_0299.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRd-JFBMeBi8oWoSatsrxVC9T8RINHvo2QhZbQ_KMLF53FvwmvA-MCPNgeWDPFT9cPjPSk814uDyeNQdoGX-wvWdgaHxRRJ6ESWSyzRjOy2MDLA6iCixG1hhCPMCO2ru6bC5xfOFFwuxE/s320/IMG_0299.JPG" width="320" /></a>
That created a new problem. The rubber bellows no longer reached the
column, so I made a bracket which clamped to the column dovetail and
shortened the distance the bellows needed to stretch.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwZARUcDuMYvCg9o6YuVeZpwsbpQ8twjnyiwFDoflSGd2-yXoCkElQY8gRN5E1oSe9SDtWVMn_VcTfQd9DxCwe7a4L2DGZ9Y5ALBR6s7gc6744YuXksxSmHqcc7lrvN_I67XoiddmejU0/s1600/IMG_1613.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwZARUcDuMYvCg9o6YuVeZpwsbpQ8twjnyiwFDoflSGd2-yXoCkElQY8gRN5E1oSe9SDtWVMn_VcTfQd9DxCwe7a4L2DGZ9Y5ALBR6s7gc6744YuXksxSmHqcc7lrvN_I67XoiddmejU0/s320/IMG_1613.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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A setscrew in the side provides the clamping force in the same manner that jib adjusting screws work.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAQhgsGoSF41Mmj09Mn3q-jQXneNRcpribUpIWDDrBw4LI2h-VsN81gaZYxu5v_MxKcBrpu6BqzwUoYbMaEfWtskSag5Uc9yi6MqhbOiZisu3BnWKFwgaFikOtyOIIH-CGYxa892E-6as/s1600/IMG_1616.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAQhgsGoSF41Mmj09Mn3q-jQXneNRcpribUpIWDDrBw4LI2h-VsN81gaZYxu5v_MxKcBrpu6BqzwUoYbMaEfWtskSag5Uc9yi6MqhbOiZisu3BnWKFwgaFikOtyOIIH-CGYxa892E-6as/s320/IMG_1616.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I
lowered the mounting point to give the Z axis stop a place to rest that
is below the surface of the table. The original bellows mounting screw
holes can be seen above my clamp.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ZwGg-FLv-XLd9Mqb5y0LDhuSZtZWfiO6Or86UhYX9NUgEwoy-dnrpRwA0klXs3EdvfXMihJbUMgHXLlf1B4QpR2JN1omVz_gicFf_sUAf0rjaT3gj99Dat0qhHA3Qa_OxpZ1Rj6E7FM/s1600/IMG_1617.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ZwGg-FLv-XLd9Mqb5y0LDhuSZtZWfiO6Or86UhYX9NUgEwoy-dnrpRwA0klXs3EdvfXMihJbUMgHXLlf1B4QpR2JN1omVz_gicFf_sUAf0rjaT3gj99Dat0qhHA3Qa_OxpZ1Rj6E7FM/s400/IMG_1617.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here
is the Z axis stop in its resting position. Here it does not interfere
with my vise, the end of which is visible on the left.<br />
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I
believe the finished machine is at least as good as a stock solid
column mill, and has some advantages. The additional clearance of 0.85
inches may not seem like much, but on a small machine like this, it is
significant. My spacer in the head increases the throat depth by 0.75
inches over the stock machine. The combination of the tilt base and
adapter plate is very rigid, with the 8 pound plate solidly attached
with 7 bolts. This is a viable alternative for those who want the
advantages of the solid column without having to discard their perfectly
good base. Unknownnoreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7412846647818539522.post-7457306956234614562013-03-26T18:24:00.000-07:002013-06-27T10:23:04.109-07:00Holographic LCD reflectorOver 20 years ago, Dupont developed a clever polymer that could be used to create holograms. One promising application was a reflective backing for LCD displays.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3ja642W3G-YcIqBvTqqgt53KkuacHHVTFwhY1izEMs2FGhPUCOOcVFR85WFJWrPiAmJBDwcMAimpiy7nEQUGciN8hzB7eoYE2nsFzA-SWT3pp6wMqpg9bfRcl59BrjOike1k4P0tFaWY/s1600/DSCN1729.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3ja642W3G-YcIqBvTqqgt53KkuacHHVTFwhY1izEMs2FGhPUCOOcVFR85WFJWrPiAmJBDwcMAimpiy7nEQUGciN8hzB7eoYE2nsFzA-SWT3pp6wMqpg9bfRcl59BrjOike1k4P0tFaWY/s320/DSCN1729.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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While in theory any color could be created, green became the dominant color because the human eye is very sensitive to green, and because holograms are created by using high power lasers. Argon lasers were the predominant high power lasers back then, and they are very good at producing green light at 514nm. The hologram at right was made with a 514 argon laser.<br />
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The holographic reflector appears 6x brighter to the eye than does the traditional silver background. This is because the hologram directs most of the light towards the viewer rather than distributing it widely like the silver diffuser.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHeytqdH6dhtGsv1pRmY_rXH3Nc_8BGLZ77RQ9ddxDsiBxFuq8wZBLFVNTePM9MEvO9-JSKI2Cx8jDOWMByyHacGcvdH1WjP64NbNoR7GB6JRN2auqG5tkmUDDcXjz2h9MXWpY1-n-Xq4/s1600/DSCN3715.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHeytqdH6dhtGsv1pRmY_rXH3Nc_8BGLZ77RQ9ddxDsiBxFuq8wZBLFVNTePM9MEvO9-JSKI2Cx8jDOWMByyHacGcvdH1WjP64NbNoR7GB6JRN2auqG5tkmUDDcXjz2h9MXWpY1-n-Xq4/s320/DSCN3715.JPG" width="320" /></a> It is easy to add the holographic reflector to any LCD. This weather
radio came with the usual dull gray background. I disassembled the radio
and peeled the silver diffuser off the back of the LCD. Then I
attached the hologram to the LCD using a transparent adhesive film. <br />
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Here is a Fluke multimeter that I modified, next to an unmodified one. The contrast between the modified and original radios was even greater.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgndcM2Pg_n3mH5ddXEL9oVbc_hKoAmyL3OCfI_XGdurhHJY7oYBrenK87Cl-rqeajUNrn_OgttGUNKbTJ0sdroOF_cyVWTGvetdBgNJw8DXHaPoT2NYjDmIuqP7RkpJ6P-FpUGm8gFVnc/s1600/DSCN3708.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgndcM2Pg_n3mH5ddXEL9oVbc_hKoAmyL3OCfI_XGdurhHJY7oYBrenK87Cl-rqeajUNrn_OgttGUNKbTJ0sdroOF_cyVWTGvetdBgNJw8DXHaPoT2NYjDmIuqP7RkpJ6P-FpUGm8gFVnc/s320/DSCN3708.JPG" width="239" /></a><br />
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Unfortunately, the idea never caught on. Casio used it in
some digital watches like this one, but I know of few other commercial
applications.<br />
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<u>Update</u>: A reader has supplied the following additional information:<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px;">Found your post on the DuPont holographic films. Nice descriptions and details. I was quite involved in the project. A correction if I may, the brightness enhancement films did catch on in a big way! Almost all of the Timex watches for 3-4 years, almost all of the higher end Motorola cell phones for 3-4 years, and many other applications. What ended the growth was the introduction of full color LCD's.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px;"><br /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px;">Doug</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBV5aEe7RDCYO2aDcKUcAaCk5VMlNcQG5ny99XmA7FEcWfH8u_ok2HmC1ewqHVsPUJbWkmnmpZlZcXnsvcFltR5agFPc6GnAa9RjdFewczmrn6YIqUZjla5nTVIPtqCbdra9sPpeWIgTU/s1600/IMG_1376.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBV5aEe7RDCYO2aDcKUcAaCk5VMlNcQG5ny99XmA7FEcWfH8u_ok2HmC1ewqHVsPUJbWkmnmpZlZcXnsvcFltR5agFPc6GnAa9RjdFewczmrn6YIqUZjla5nTVIPtqCbdra9sPpeWIgTU/s320/IMG_1376.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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The diagram at left illustrates how this works.<br />
Unlike a normal mirror which reflects light away at the same angle it is received, holograms can be designed to reflect light at any angle. This property can be used to great advantage by reflecting ambient light at a different angle than the glare reflecting off the surface of the LCD display.<br />
In the diagram, the glare from overhead light is reflected down, away from the viewer, while the green light from the hologram is directed towards the viewer. The result is the brilliant, high contrast display shown above.<br />
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I have a few square feet of the stuff, and convert most of my LCD displays.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXhfOJv_3seg040diVKyYFWOzXfED1eQLCHkFI-fC65B2SGDaSF35OJrA71RnrRDWd-ZLRgowUQX810ujnOGIPMxFTJviVPSBpKNXPb7Dphkv1LRKKR7jw25M56t5FIi01etNivKBraPU/s1600/DSCN3719.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXhfOJv_3seg040diVKyYFWOzXfED1eQLCHkFI-fC65B2SGDaSF35OJrA71RnrRDWd-ZLRgowUQX810ujnOGIPMxFTJviVPSBpKNXPb7Dphkv1LRKKR7jw25M56t5FIi01etNivKBraPU/s320/DSCN3719.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
Like most holograms, this hologram is a picture of something. In this
case, it is a picture of a ground glass plate illuminated by 2 laser
beams from the same laser. The hologram reflects light at the same
angle that the laser beams were at when they illuminated the glass
plate. We would then make a master hologram from which copies could be made.<br />
At right is a sheet of copies. This picture was taken in a brightly lit room, but the holograms were so bright that the room appears dark. one neat attribute of holograms is that they are nearly transparent. Here is the exact same sheet when looking through it at the overhead lights that previously made it glow bright green. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJrNDmGbpuFyP0Sno10RoxKappH7umHqGm9aA5JEzz8sv0TtTSnvx2ZINHg16mLZOOIqVF1kqH-ADRDPLadoLCzEPwwygoeVp9oXbYaKlXcjXExmAsSZmJvkmmYgKJQnHbtxam1TrHrJI/s1600/DSCN3720.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJrNDmGbpuFyP0Sno10RoxKappH7umHqGm9aA5JEzz8sv0TtTSnvx2ZINHg16mLZOOIqVF1kqH-ADRDPLadoLCzEPwwygoeVp9oXbYaKlXcjXExmAsSZmJvkmmYgKJQnHbtxam1TrHrJI/s320/DSCN3720.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
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We tried other colors with limited success. Here is a blue one. Not nearly as effective as the green. The bright objects in the background easily wash out the weaker blue.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNndr6_l89DpSgxp51BlhhMblyZjVLQ5LhBcbNzv9GnYD77yuaenTlhErQk4lB2R1EolG2-vSHbRT89Di6j0RtNIv9ULt5gPkersUe-ZkEoMxGikRD1dEhFWb0tou5wauzmRIUBfbZ2rM/s1600/DSCN3721.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNndr6_l89DpSgxp51BlhhMblyZjVLQ5LhBcbNzv9GnYD77yuaenTlhErQk4lB2R1EolG2-vSHbRT89Di6j0RtNIv9ULt5gPkersUe-ZkEoMxGikRD1dEhFWb0tou5wauzmRIUBfbZ2rM/s320/DSCN3721.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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By combining red, green and blue lasers, we made some white ones. However, even those did not perform as well as straight green, which can be seen shining through the white one.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNUuCxpTmeLFXBpZBulRySNgA9JTuABmIoqZ8jqSmZWeaS-x4yEngNVu4AF5wNqwv3S26utJ4o15Pm__6c_slbxoO9RaOOYer_aRwZ1tMoIpX9ICZjyyM9oLKWC5i72DPBlmILAy3Ee0M/s1600/DSCN3722.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNUuCxpTmeLFXBpZBulRySNgA9JTuABmIoqZ8jqSmZWeaS-x4yEngNVu4AF5wNqwv3S26utJ4o15Pm__6c_slbxoO9RaOOYer_aRwZ1tMoIpX9ICZjyyM9oLKWC5i72DPBlmILAy3Ee0M/s320/DSCN3722.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Finally, here is a picture of some scraps. They only glow when viewed from the proper angle. The ones that appear dark are pointed the wrong way. <br />
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Years ago, someone had the idea of chopping these up and putting them into paint. A good idea, for unlike dyes, holograms never fade. Unfortunately I don't believe the inventor got very far with his idea.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeRhvqvA8j0ll5Z33p6FkxOe4CfoFR_jlB5VXKCHd0SFALVmSmf7KKOEVnJk7VnH2GlLsh7yBZY5uMYeH1VPk_QQreFH86-deWKz35iuZuVsxZlt-uVpk_OkGJCQAjUBgPS4ro78c8DPc/s1600/DSCN3723.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeRhvqvA8j0ll5Z33p6FkxOe4CfoFR_jlB5VXKCHd0SFALVmSmf7KKOEVnJk7VnH2GlLsh7yBZY5uMYeH1VPk_QQreFH86-deWKz35iuZuVsxZlt-uVpk_OkGJCQAjUBgPS4ro78c8DPc/s400/DSCN3723.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
One idea that DuPont and some automakers invested a lot of time in was a holographic center stoplight, or CHMSL, as it is known in the industry. The idea was that a hologram in the rear window would glow red when the brakes were applied, but otherwise would be transparent. While it worked, it had no real advantages over traditional stop lights.<br />
Another, better idea was a transparent television set. When not used, it appeared to be a somewhat foggy, but generally clear, window. When turned on, the picture was quite good. One idea was to use it to display advertisements in store windows, then let people also see inside. Unfortunately I have seen little of that idea since then.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7412846647818539522.post-9982138121206070972013-03-10T20:14:00.000-07:002013-09-11T07:25:29.182-07:00Kohler K341 Engine Overhaul<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ15jzlyqJECvjF8bDpfZwlLsWRqCVO_iGjnR6uGgwr6vlhC8VsPSbnBOwM57VG6bRycCmuFOH-EldbOxiWxkusgFyplniPfBK8YdASRk01KwQPr6H6F0drxTlrFNMEhtxXfXsZpdalbs/s1600/IMG_1330.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ15jzlyqJECvjF8bDpfZwlLsWRqCVO_iGjnR6uGgwr6vlhC8VsPSbnBOwM57VG6bRycCmuFOH-EldbOxiWxkusgFyplniPfBK8YdASRk01KwQPr6H6F0drxTlrFNMEhtxXfXsZpdalbs/s320/IMG_1330.JPG" width="239" /></a> After 35 years of reliable operation, the Kohler engine in my John Deere 316 was
beginning to burn a little bit of oil. About a quart every 3 or 4
hours. So, I decided to overhaul it and bought a kit which included a
new piston, connecting rod, and valves. Step one was disassembling and
cleaning the parts. The engine was much dirtier on the outside than on
the inside.<br />
I stripped everything out except the main bearings. Since most of the bolts were oil covered and a little loose when I removed them, I cleaned every bolt and their corresponding holes.<br />
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How do you remove the cam? The cam rides on a shaft that is about 1/4" diameter. It goes in the black hole to the right of the crankshaft hole in this picture. Drive the shaft out from this side with a soft punch. <br />
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This is a solidly built engine, and weighs somewhere around 90 pounds when assembled. Once disassembled, the bare block was easy to pick up and turn over to clean. Surprisingly, every internal part measured equal to new specifications. With the exception of the piston and rings, there was no measurable wear on the crank, camshaft, cylinder bore, and valve lifters. This was good news in that it was not necessary to bore the engine and use an over-sized piston.<br />
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The camshaft shaft will come out of this hole. You should not have to hit the other end of the shaft very hard. <br />
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The valve guides also had no measurable wear. I have no idea of the total time on the engine, only that I put on 400 hours since I bought it in 2002. Since the tractor had signs of considerable wear when I bought it, I'm guessing that it had about 1,000 hours on it, so maybe it has 1,400 total.<br />
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This engine does not have the balance gears present in some versions, and from what I've read, generally discarded by engine overhaulers. <br />
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I decided to replace the governor gear, even though like everything else, there was no wear visible. However, the gear is plastic, and I once had an 18 HP Briggs & Stratton self-destruct because it's plastic oil splashing gear failed. Since a governor failure could result in a destructive overspeed, I felt it was a good idea to change it. <br />
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However, that greatly complicated the rebuild, since I had to remove the camshaft to access it. As you can see in the picture on the left, it is located deep inside the engine, above the camshaft. Removing the camshaft requires removing the bearing plate, along with the crankshaft.<br />
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There was no sludge inside the engine, and the<br />
oil pan was one of the easier parts to clean.<br />
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The front main bearing. these massive ball bearings were in great shape.<br />
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Finally, the fun part. Reassembly. Here is the camshaft installed, and note how the governor gear is not even visible anymore.<br />
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The timing marks are hard to see. Here is a view through the fuel pump opening. The tiny dot on the cam gear lines up with the line cast into the crankshaft.<br />
These pictures were taken with my iPad, which has an impressive ability to selectively focus exactly where you want it to. The iPad was also useful for reading the rebuild manual.<br />
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The crank and connecting rod installed.<br />
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The alternator coil and bearing plate. Once again, this engine was very tight, and I had to use all three paper spacers to get proper clearance between the sides of the bearings and the crank.<br />
The book specifies 35 ft-lb for the bolts holding the side plate, so I torqued them to 35, and one of the bolts snapped, while I could feel another stretching. Fortunately, I was able to remove the broken bolt without difficulty. However, I was bugged by this, for I then realized that the soft bolts used were only good for around 24 ft-lb.<br />
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I decided to replace all the bolts with high strength bolts and torque them to 35 ft-lb. Since the overhaul manual is about 15 years newer than my engine, maybe they upgraded the bolts. In any event, if your engine has bolts like the one on the left, with the recessed top, don't torque them to 35. Better to throw them out and buy new ones.<br />
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With difficult jobs like this, any help is welcome. Well, almost any. I had just installed the flywheel when my feathered friend jumped on top of it. She is a very social chicken, and is always nearby. But this surprised me. She spent a few minutes inspecting my work before jumping down.<br />
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I installed the engine in the tractor with only the flywheel attached. Not having an engine lift, I wanted to keep it as light as possible. It was also easier to torque the head when the engine was solidly bolted down.<br />
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The head had a huge amount of carbon, but I don't believe it was ever removed for cleaning. <br />
It polished up nicely.<br />
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The new piston and valves.<br />
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The engine started right up, and ran well. It has 6 hours on it now, and appears to be breaking in properly.<br />
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The entire job took about 24 hours from first removing the hood of the tractor, to reinstalling it. <br />
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The original piston. Badly scored by carbon which had built up on the cylinder wall. This was the only part in the engine that showed serious wear. This piston design is no longer used, and the newer one has the piston rings located higher up. That should reduce the amount of carbon that can get trapped above the rings.<br />
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The original connecting rod. It was good enough to re-use, but a new one came with the rebuild kit. <br />
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The original valves. Some erosion can be seen on the exhaust valve stem, but otherwise they were in good condition. Unknownnoreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7412846647818539522.post-13390718144875369252012-11-19T10:27:00.000-08:002014-01-07T16:47:32.879-08:00Alaska Kodiak coal stove<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I use an Alaska Stove Co. "Kodiak" model stove for my primary source of heat. This solidly built stove is made from 1/4 inch steel plate and cast iron hardware. I believe these were made beginning in 1977, the year Alaska Stove was founded. Unfortunately, Alaska Stove no longer makes this model, or anything similar to it. Their new stoves are all stoker-fed rice coal burning stoves, while this is a hand fired stove that will take nut coal or larger, as well as burn wood. Unlike rice coal stoves, which need electricity for both the stoker and a draft fan, this simple stove requires no electricity. Yet, it will run 12 hours unattended, giving it nearly the same convenience as a stoker stove. And it is remarkably uniform in temperature over that time period. The stack temperature typically stays within a range of 300F to 600F, and the hot air produced within a range of 150F to 200F.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqzCe26Q5pz_4fVrTaAjs-eADiSvXzfUWV_7_vn7jm37qP9S-KbO3x2eR29gCMWUXNLM5PzjzsOPw4ZTB-YFzfTZRcOFEdYMWulM968vIZAaqDAwe4m6vYxmMLUHyBMkjT7trYyc3EyDI/s1600/DSCN3496.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqzCe26Q5pz_4fVrTaAjs-eADiSvXzfUWV_7_vn7jm37qP9S-KbO3x2eR29gCMWUXNLM5PzjzsOPw4ZTB-YFzfTZRcOFEdYMWulM968vIZAaqDAwe4m6vYxmMLUHyBMkjT7trYyc3EyDI/s320/DSCN3496.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a> I received the stove without documentation or an outer shell. However, it was clearly designed to have an outer shell, for the 1/4 inch plate on the top and rear have cutouts along the edges to create air passages. I made a shell out of 4 inch concrete block. The block shell creates an airspace around the outside of the stove which efficiently heats the air circulating through it while also making the stove much safer, for the block rarely gets hot enough to burn someone. Two 8 inch ducts are connected to the shell. The inlet has a fan to help circulate the air throughout the house. It is a small fan which moves about 600 cubic feet of air a minute, but it runs continuously. This way the house temperature is always uniform. The above picture shows the top of the stove and the air ducts. When the picture was taken, the air was exiting at 145 degrees.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-wUL-sjHwtL09O1rDVV11U_NV3q3_x8pUymQsgVW2pSljjOJyFnJEEj5J3wPHM_2W5UZ5wYMK7ZE20XGR7tk-JPTUx24MOu7SM5qUh1lTe0Fla5GhEdDqDphh678Mu5QnSXXkK8F21bY/s1600/DSCN3502.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-wUL-sjHwtL09O1rDVV11U_NV3q3_x8pUymQsgVW2pSljjOJyFnJEEj5J3wPHM_2W5UZ5wYMK7ZE20XGR7tk-JPTUx24MOu7SM5qUh1lTe0Fla5GhEdDqDphh678Mu5QnSXXkK8F21bY/s320/DSCN3502.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a><br />
To measure the flue temperature, I use an antique Wheelco thermocouple galvanometer.<br />
This solidly made precision instrument is probably 75 years old and was used in an oil refinery. It, and thousands of other valuable old items were slated for destruction in order to reduce the refinery's taxes. This one escaped destruction, but still wears the yellow paint of death. I cannot find any record of Wheelco. It is unfortunate that this fine example of American engineering is nearly forgotten, due at least in part to tax laws that encourage the destruction of assets.<br />
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After using the stove a few times, I realized that while it is a very good
stove, it also had some serious shortcomings. When shaking the grates,
it was impossible to shake them without having coal jam in between them. It
was also too easy to go too far and dump the coal. I lengthened the
link between the grates until it hit the sides if the grates were
rotated more than 15 degrees. This has proven extremely effective. The
shock of the link hitting the sides loosens the ash and makes it fall
readily, while it is impossible for coal to drop down and jam in
between.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFL5TDXM4krUaeyXG9d7crcwaIJjkxpErIoAoCXDIP51PhZUAz8DFd8-3OCYT-b547IUCA1QAjLSmbhaKBTuS0xV4a8UCf3V64vzVtUS_tuaOkRLk2dkQUN4gy_sZeSOxD4_pS1u85mSo/s1600/DSCN3500.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFL5TDXM4krUaeyXG9d7crcwaIJjkxpErIoAoCXDIP51PhZUAz8DFd8-3OCYT-b547IUCA1QAjLSmbhaKBTuS0xV4a8UCf3V64vzVtUS_tuaOkRLk2dkQUN4gy_sZeSOxD4_pS1u85mSo/s320/DSCN3500.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a> Then there was no ash drawer. This was a serious shortcoming in a
stove that is over 2 feet deep. Also, the ash door is surprisingly
small. I couldn't do anything about that, but I did make a drawer as
big as I possibly could. It has about 1/4 inch clearance all around.
This was a huge help, but there remained one problem. Because the
drawer was narrow, some ash fell along the sides. This had to be
shoveled out. I took the stove apart and removed the supports for the
firebrick. I drilled and tapped holes into them and bolted sheet metal
ash guides to them. This gets about 80% of the ash that missed the
drawer. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwAJ3mmF77Y0Ac2OXHptA9r0fzM4OzQ0lS_aaqiPKQz4pg_45zQ5WDqTR_FlCOW0hpxx5jYqKPDP9uOaKEqoAM3XgKbPlmXDNarQpOJOONp-ozDv4qPHgYWJIYDOAzCDr7_ZDCZC5dIzg/s1600/Alaska+Stove.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwAJ3mmF77Y0Ac2OXHptA9r0fzM4OzQ0lS_aaqiPKQz4pg_45zQ5WDqTR_FlCOW0hpxx5jYqKPDP9uOaKEqoAM3XgKbPlmXDNarQpOJOONp-ozDv4qPHgYWJIYDOAzCDr7_ZDCZC5dIzg/s400/Alaska+Stove.jpg" height="400" width="382" /></a></div>
One problem with coal is that it takes a lot of air and a very hot fire
to get it going, but once it is going, it needs only a small amount of
air. In fact, I only open the main air door when starting, and then
close it. The stove then gets all the air it needs through the small
openings in the ash drawer, and even these I have open only about 1/4 of
the way. I should point out that I have a very strong draft up my 25
foot chimney. Since the coal burns so uniformly for 8-12 hours, an
automatic control is not necessary.<br />
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Recently I added a safety
feature: An automatic closer for the main air door. Without that, I had
to say close to the stove when starting, a process that may take more
than a half hour. Coal can surprise you, for it may smolder at a low
burn for a while, until it reaches critical mass. Then you can see
stack temperatures approaching 1000 degrees F in a matter of minutes.
Not a safe situation. My safety system consists of an electromagnet
which holds the door open, and a thermocouple controlled alarm with
relay contacts. When the alarm trips, the alarm cuts power to the
electromagnet and the door drops by gravity. I like this because it is
fail safe. If the power fails, the door will drop. If the thermocouple
fails, the controller will alarm and the door will drop. Still, I consider this a safety backup only and would not intentionally leave the
house and depend on the alarm. However, I could someday forget and this
little thing just might save my house. Here are some pictures:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUp4GYhMte2mrU8K5ZUkQZKYtp1Grml4mXWZxCPS2ZVLZLUvzjhQmlOXoBvS3XfpnENZNMYP6vm8lfrkEW8xSUU9Qjfr42ZY6Ye7pNI_TONfR1uZWC3evoFUIrWU5r-TNYnrVsiAM7U-U/s1600/DSCN3557.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUp4GYhMte2mrU8K5ZUkQZKYtp1Grml4mXWZxCPS2ZVLZLUvzjhQmlOXoBvS3XfpnENZNMYP6vm8lfrkEW8xSUU9Qjfr42ZY6Ye7pNI_TONfR1uZWC3evoFUIrWU5r-TNYnrVsiAM7U-U/s320/DSCN3557.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a><br />
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The temperature controller: An old Omega controller from my junk box. Also in the box is a Sonalert audible alarm and a 9 volt "wall wart" power supply from some long ago discarded electronic gadget. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAAeQf_IDtUYJ0T3I3n-FYYh4Hto58dHV8GnuEIvcoWQvXjZTnf1965j0Rwh0XOwEHs190xv0OXd18RRXD3wT0NI79klsm2Wkk1JGZ26u5SSXL9aTfZP50xjGHBM5lGd9_q_Blu5kEFGA/s1600/DSCN3559.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAAeQf_IDtUYJ0T3I3n-FYYh4Hto58dHV8GnuEIvcoWQvXjZTnf1965j0Rwh0XOwEHs190xv0OXd18RRXD3wT0NI79klsm2Wkk1JGZ26u5SSXL9aTfZP50xjGHBM5lGd9_q_Blu5kEFGA/s320/DSCN3559.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
The electromagnet holding the door open. The electromagnet is another "wall wart" transformer, but this one has had one side cut off to turn it into an electromagnet. Transformers make decent, and cheap electromagnets, for nearly everybody has some of these laying around somewhere. This one was from a US Robotics 33k modem. Remember those? They were popular when nearly everybody was using dial up America Online. As an electromagnet, this transformer uses only 63 milliamps at 9 volts. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpxYeG-rbJtydMcKw0TLZYob9z46ZuHToaTaOQmUXcr70Y8LZPEEDUZT5sOZFso9dnGwr6veaqmrrQdV4hQhdJa33WiYRU87bL09BNZZTBr3X1M-1qTX7arQ_fOMtm6-mtsExQxev8IYw/s1600/DSCN3562.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpxYeG-rbJtydMcKw0TLZYob9z46ZuHToaTaOQmUXcr70Y8LZPEEDUZT5sOZFso9dnGwr6veaqmrrQdV4hQhdJa33WiYRU87bL09BNZZTBr3X1M-1qTX7arQ_fOMtm6-mtsExQxev8IYw/s320/DSCN3562.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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The electromagnet has de-energized, and the door dropped. While the power is restored to the electromagnet as soon as the stove cools and the alarm stops, the magnet is far too weak to raise the door. In fact, it has barely enough power to hold the door up. Better that way. Any disturbance would cause the door to break free and drop. <br />
The arm that holds the magnet is attached to the stove bracket by a single bolt which is aligned with the air door hinge pin. This way the magnet can be set to hold the door at any position, or even swung up and out of the way. <br />
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I believe Alaska Stove still sells replacement grates for these stoves. At least they did 6 years ago, when I replaced mine after acquiring the stove. This stove was badly abused and seriously over-fired, warping the grates and the firebrick supports along the sides. The front was warped too, and the door would not close properly. Since Alaska Stove did not sell the firebrick supports anymore, I had a local foundry cast new ones for me, using the old ones as a pattern. I straightened out the front by intentionally over-firing it without firebrick in the front. Then I pounded the warped front with a sledgehammer while the steel was soft. That worked well, and the door closes properly now.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-vWHVeoRnSsz9Evif3oyJ6r4TRrwrXuS0Nb0wpmPF0ylb4Zu-eyyKgIKQEVGSJxy7qOun1ICm540GxqRKE_T8rF-LS2blrY4KSKGpiwUf6gFEoo2w0pjOZWq7yxxP-jLLDY25GNIjgxA/s1600/DSCN2024_1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-vWHVeoRnSsz9Evif3oyJ6r4TRrwrXuS0Nb0wpmPF0ylb4Zu-eyyKgIKQEVGSJxy7qOun1ICm540GxqRKE_T8rF-LS2blrY4KSKGpiwUf6gFEoo2w0pjOZWq7yxxP-jLLDY25GNIjgxA/s320/DSCN2024_1.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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I built a 6 foot x 18 foot coal bin that holds approximately 10 tons. Later I covered the bin with solar panels, in the process creating what may be the worlds only coal bin with solar panels.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikAWG1gYkeK_FSfL8bRzVW34EQeTCQB4Mlzr1h4LsRhPD3ajhmHj1802eTnGSxLsyN2Bl7UayCRhby2up0F7lUgxJMt6zoGQHhZMIiaFXHBvMdj9DHuATD_6wsQN9ti_QRf3e13xUgVhQ/s1600/dscn1748.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikAWG1gYkeK_FSfL8bRzVW34EQeTCQB4Mlzr1h4LsRhPD3ajhmHj1802eTnGSxLsyN2Bl7UayCRhby2up0F7lUgxJMt6zoGQHhZMIiaFXHBvMdj9DHuATD_6wsQN9ti_QRf3e13xUgVhQ/s320/dscn1748.jpg" height="239" width="320" /></a><br />
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I burn between 3 and 4 tons of coal each winter, at a cost here of $200/ton. That is like getting heating oil for less than $1/gallon, or propane for maybe 75 cents. However, the money I'm saving by burning coal is only part of the story. My house is much warmer with coal heat. My high efficiency propane heater delivered all it's heat upstairs to the living spaces, as it was designed to do. This however, left me with a frigid basement which was unpleasant to be in during the winter months. By contrast, the coal stove heats the basement to 80 degrees F. This heat eventually works its way upstairs, supplementing the heat arriving through the ducts. Because of the stored heat in the basement, the stove can be out many hours before the house feels cold. By contrast, when heating with propane, the house only felt warm when the heater was running. Yet, even when running the propane heater for maximum efficiency by turning the heat down whenever possible, I still had some January propane bills that were larger than my entire season when heating with coal.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7412846647818539522.post-26306851378207737772012-08-29T07:36:00.000-07:002015-05-23T03:59:05.440-07:001970 Evinrude 6hp Outboard Motor <div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi_FMoqiJTv_LqPgzbxT8DrKFBqYzX01wYyraXaGZiuOD9dOsHZNUYr78Iuc_fHMqMahTS02Hwe2BWBkDfRu6lAhZqAR_mgq6_tr1zvTrBYv0Dr9NYQdXxHuB8JGetRljqVRnDIUSJQdY/s1600/DSCN3221.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi_FMoqiJTv_LqPgzbxT8DrKFBqYzX01wYyraXaGZiuOD9dOsHZNUYr78Iuc_fHMqMahTS02Hwe2BWBkDfRu6lAhZqAR_mgq6_tr1zvTrBYv0Dr9NYQdXxHuB8JGetRljqVRnDIUSJQdY/s400/DSCN3221.JPG" width="400" /></a> I bought a 1970 Evinrude 6hp outboard to power my Sunbird to and from the ramp, and for when there is no wind. I chose this motor because the price was right: A few hundred $$ vs. $1,000- $1,400 for a new one. Also, it was in very good condition. In addition, it weighs only 43 pounds, while newer ones I looked at were from 53 to 85 pounds. The weight advantage comes not from flimsy construction - in fact the Evinrude is impressively built - but from the fact that it is a simple 2 stroke design, unlike the modern 4 strokes. The Evinrude is not as clean burning as newer designs, but this is a motor that will see maybe 10 hours use a season. In addition, the motor needs to be removed for trailering. The far more expensive, and far heavier newer motors simply do not make sense for me, even if they are cleaner burning. The Evinrude has other advantages, too. As a 2 cylinder 2 stroke, it has 2 power pulses for each crankshaft revolution, vs. only 1 power pulse for 2 revolutions in a single cylinder 4 stroke. It produces it's rated power at lower RPM's than the 4 strokes, and is very smooth at all speeds.</div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZhBJj3my8YbZyRxm691SgEyWcTvMl3_fQUXioATpsuCvJ8TsXdHBxmbwn3n2HgcA3ut60eFxyN_acZ1pJbou9chWOV0FKqRaet_NxG4mm6aewxfO_9NW_ou88XJhCqrAIQMy07hPX1y0/s1600/DSCN3264.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZhBJj3my8YbZyRxm691SgEyWcTvMl3_fQUXioATpsuCvJ8TsXdHBxmbwn3n2HgcA3ut60eFxyN_acZ1pJbou9chWOV0FKqRaet_NxG4mm6aewxfO_9NW_ou88XJhCqrAIQMy07hPX1y0/s320/DSCN3264.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
It is a good idea to check the water pump on these motors, and I found my impeller to be worn out, and the pump housing corroded. Impellers are cheap enough, but housings are not. I decided to save some money and bore my housing out, using my <a href="http://robertsprojects.blogspot.com/2010/02/mini-mill-modifications-shumatech-dro.html" target="_blank">Harbor Freight Mini Mill.</a> I made a stainless steel liner from my scrapped <a href="http://robertsprojects.blogspot.com/2012/02/repairing-air-compressor-pulley.html" target="_blank">Craftsman air compressor. </a> By lucky coincidence, their inside diameters were the same. At right is a picture of the bored out housing and new liner.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSmB7-yVorxOPKzEimWyD7tXAvEYom_gu16kDuwhWEKDg4iaiXJAAzhVXW089r8EHRpXyWxTHUxsjGjMSO-NnoSKzNCBE2Ak9-OSxOm03TuzClx_OSHjgoKUTzPuZ_R-cA2JtQOc1FZl8/s1600/DSCN3260.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSmB7-yVorxOPKzEimWyD7tXAvEYom_gu16kDuwhWEKDg4iaiXJAAzhVXW089r8EHRpXyWxTHUxsjGjMSO-NnoSKzNCBE2Ak9-OSxOm03TuzClx_OSHjgoKUTzPuZ_R-cA2JtQOc1FZl8/s320/DSCN3260.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Here is the liner installed. It is a press fit, and secured with J-B Weld. Will it last another 42 years? I'm not sure about that, but it will likely last long enough. I believe this housing, and most other parts are original on this low-time engine.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr_eNsLx5dfRobIsa4ZbX5hTV-IXDyPQabAIXCznlFGwyerLU8n_BC6PnGGr5Icn8Gk8Gd8J0qdw3yE17YWvPHSCWr9rE50tNtc2PaQ2sFjVhhSyjE3DGTC6S78mBlb-8tdRWfuTY80Us/s1600/DSCN3326.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr_eNsLx5dfRobIsa4ZbX5hTV-IXDyPQabAIXCznlFGwyerLU8n_BC6PnGGr5Icn8Gk8Gd8J0qdw3yE17YWvPHSCWr9rE50tNtc2PaQ2sFjVhhSyjE3DGTC6S78mBlb-8tdRWfuTY80Us/s320/DSCN3326.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
The inside of the lower end was in very good condition. I snapped the two rear bolts while removing them, for corrosion held them fast. Once again, I saw no sign that these were ever removed since new. I was able to extract them, and found that the holes are 1/4" deeper than the 1" bolts used. Since these threads were weakened by the corrosion, I replaced the bolts with new 1-1/4" stainless bolts, taking advantage of the extra threads at the bottom of the hole. Since I plan to inspect the lower end annually, I don't expect the new bolts to have time to seize in the holes.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqlRmG1h2oFCqQX7-Hfx02UcIgRZeTKE8316ia_PaDnuI6_cU7oGPp6jpPd_g4THQYYqRTGJfy8WPI2SHnHiQlbUl6EDlCB2oYAghkGLxlkaHGEXAtGvoPBBRuZ_mOwM65DADvRkfg5As/s1600/DSCN3312.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqlRmG1h2oFCqQX7-Hfx02UcIgRZeTKE8316ia_PaDnuI6_cU7oGPp6jpPd_g4THQYYqRTGJfy8WPI2SHnHiQlbUl6EDlCB2oYAghkGLxlkaHGEXAtGvoPBBRuZ_mOwM65DADvRkfg5As/s320/DSCN3312.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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One other problem I had with this engine was a very stiff throttle. I traced this to the bottom bearing of the vertical throttle shaft. Here they used a nylon bushing which had very close clearances to both the engine frame and the bevel gear. Some aluminum corrosion built up between the bushing and frame, nearly seizing it completely. It took a lot of effort to wiggle it free. Once clear of corrosion, I lubricated it with silicon grease, and it operates smoothly once again.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO2NCwrImyGBzCLcFgqMzovM8pbW3LXCPhXpIkNcsKL0g_7zD0fs1qTqND-snWVUQltVVT3fykSEU2rFjp3H_MXjKJWDTXT1kz4eB5wz0iLCBYY-KvZzf6lgPsPKyTyDAwN4LtXZP-ec0/s1600/DSCN3313.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO2NCwrImyGBzCLcFgqMzovM8pbW3LXCPhXpIkNcsKL0g_7zD0fs1qTqND-snWVUQltVVT3fykSEU2rFjp3H_MXjKJWDTXT1kz4eB5wz0iLCBYY-KvZzf6lgPsPKyTyDAwN4LtXZP-ec0/s320/DSCN3313.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
If you have this problem, be sure this hole is clear of corrosion, or it will come back. I rolled up sandpaper and drew it through a few times.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBLtyEJxINhekbqKblGt7OMEjpsk8uRoVpO0Fdren7b0epyrtkqjVNgTrovutshyphenhyphen14IP0Bk6ldLVGI9s3vokVkpVKp5msPJhK3YN4g8GeTVg1x7mzv9J8U7ewFTVvLTnkAZ8ZAyjONrtk/s1600/DSCN3316.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBLtyEJxINhekbqKblGt7OMEjpsk8uRoVpO0Fdren7b0epyrtkqjVNgTrovutshyphenhyphen14IP0Bk6ldLVGI9s3vokVkpVKp5msPJhK3YN4g8GeTVg1x7mzv9J8U7ewFTVvLTnkAZ8ZAyjONrtk/s200/DSCN3316.JPG" width="200" /></a>Here is the vertical shaft. The stainless clip goes on the top end, and the nylon link connects it to the bevel gear. The bevel gear on the horizontal shaft is shown below right, and the shaft is below left. The shaft is solid brass, and is in much better condition that it appears. The bevel gear is aluminum, and also in great shape. The screw pinches it to the shaft, but even if it is loose, it will not turn because both the gear and shaft have a flat side <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHR-KWhRxJSig3dGkL7BFU4RztMPub9fGwf8ENZOfEPXWigCOYatbndCB2Q1n4V1YvxteEjF3fsWYDY0mwzXsf_4adlV44g3trc83FwgpoFVAyBNOgSH4i89Yrg40KQIJfZOi_APznVCc/s1600/DSCN3302.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHR-KWhRxJSig3dGkL7BFU4RztMPub9fGwf8ENZOfEPXWigCOYatbndCB2Q1n4V1YvxteEjF3fsWYDY0mwzXsf_4adlV44g3trc83FwgpoFVAyBNOgSH4i89Yrg40KQIJfZOi_APznVCc/s200/DSCN3302.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_pWBZj1AHz5pylpbYJvzVUh-biRv0G4GGVySdFXBRhHIJ4b9bkyq-gYFJ1P-kNdkseAksQRSYsWJ6DQbwDS-wLPwhXAVcjJN4399NbRA_04EGMYER7No3-5P2v5j0x9-n2DPLqhEqQCs/s1600/DSCN3315.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_pWBZj1AHz5pylpbYJvzVUh-biRv0G4GGVySdFXBRhHIJ4b9bkyq-gYFJ1P-kNdkseAksQRSYsWJ6DQbwDS-wLPwhXAVcjJN4399NbRA_04EGMYER7No3-5P2v5j0x9-n2DPLqhEqQCs/s200/DSCN3315.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj35uAz3UBzzumjXjB6CbdHAmR1wiMfWuN2bXHdlmS_CPw_S3yF4o9mxjfFzg9_7FwpmSsBwPn3m0PslXpisT2RMpKSPl8m97AiGaJAvwVDM_Hx-hs3HaqZkQFIb9t73xgyKhBD8WJGCA8/s1600/DSCN3311.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj35uAz3UBzzumjXjB6CbdHAmR1wiMfWuN2bXHdlmS_CPw_S3yF4o9mxjfFzg9_7FwpmSsBwPn3m0PslXpisT2RMpKSPl8m97AiGaJAvwVDM_Hx-hs3HaqZkQFIb9t73xgyKhBD8WJGCA8/s400/DSCN3311.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The next thing I looked at was the tilt mechanism. Initially very stiff, it soon loosened to the point where the motor would fall back down. I disassembled it to see how it worked. It uses a plastic cone for friction and a very thick spring to put compressive force on the cone. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgJduTq4tDOptuPlYasa39Xcb5G1h5wwI88qvJPAZauZkr_A5TUO-xtCh9rkuTsx3ozJmYH-oHO_4FLFNJARps9jFdCBek_7IyKtZL3uSqwa9TjKBpLth7MD-qU16xx6_wSRxQv4Yxe8s/s1600/DSCN3307.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgJduTq4tDOptuPlYasa39Xcb5G1h5wwI88qvJPAZauZkr_A5TUO-xtCh9rkuTsx3ozJmYH-oHO_4FLFNJARps9jFdCBek_7IyKtZL3uSqwa9TjKBpLth7MD-qU16xx6_wSRxQv4Yxe8s/s320/DSCN3307.JPG" width="320" /></a>Not shown in this picture is a flat fiberglass washer that is on the spring side of the tilt mechanism. It is a thrust washer that prevents the aluminum pieces from rubbing against each other. The spring and bolt were originally aluminized. I treated the rusted areas with rust converter, and then painted them. I put silicon grease on the plastic cone when I reassembled it. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXS7iQeqWUGSjpjcocH1cfMCXl5cTR-q_TcYNbcWjSBcz8iAn40mLZGwSHW2DhHT85fFo3RlQ0xo3u_iLeuMCjmGGLA7tnZvtwSGHPmBT_TppQm7B1xKjPzghvbr48pDenoL7l161GlFo/s1600/DSCN3295.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXS7iQeqWUGSjpjcocH1cfMCXl5cTR-q_TcYNbcWjSBcz8iAn40mLZGwSHW2DhHT85fFo3RlQ0xo3u_iLeuMCjmGGLA7tnZvtwSGHPmBT_TppQm7B1xKjPzghvbr48pDenoL7l161GlFo/s320/DSCN3295.JPG" width="320" /></a>Taking the flywheel off proved to be a challenge. Like nearly
everything else on this motor, it appeared to be undisturbed for the
last 42 years. I bolted on my Harbor Freight puller, and it did not
budge, even though the 1/4-20 stainless bolts I screwed into the flywheel were bending
under the load. I tried a few gentle taps, and nothing. I heated the
flywheel, still nothing. Finally, I supported the flywheel with 2 metal
bars supported by sawhorses. Now I could safely whack the top of the
puller without worrying about shock loads on the crank and bearings.
That worked. and I didn't have to hit it very hard. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0rxhtM3I7VWv_8yfbJuzwJDzJ_aQMOU2_eX4lW7Hxf9ta02c5tB-2dMNPpeBeTOF_qgjgc7gbLSzeWIRiC6TvwEc_jVRsLkZAVptCPGKou93qXOSthLDMkdzxfTjq3wmem45FMcGlhnU/s1600/DSCN3297.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0rxhtM3I7VWv_8yfbJuzwJDzJ_aQMOU2_eX4lW7Hxf9ta02c5tB-2dMNPpeBeTOF_qgjgc7gbLSzeWIRiC6TvwEc_jVRsLkZAVptCPGKou93qXOSthLDMkdzxfTjq3wmem45FMcGlhnU/s320/DSCN3297.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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Removing the flywheel exposed an ignition system in pristine condition. Everything looked original. I replaced the condensers, but being cheap, I filed the points. They are working well, and may last many hours. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3zLz-Vuh7oTrVY-gvY-sofxNqnxXjjAYdk7meL6-3d_1iEaYXVusmHVn4dwpln0lRblolodGWENF27tzFUPNCKJmdZA31DufExZxRXHnGgHxL0pv3M3vBpCVv9jtBXKfIl2tBufcNQ8k/s1600/DSCN3298.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3zLz-Vuh7oTrVY-gvY-sofxNqnxXjjAYdk7meL6-3d_1iEaYXVusmHVn4dwpln0lRblolodGWENF27tzFUPNCKJmdZA31DufExZxRXHnGgHxL0pv3M3vBpCVv9jtBXKfIl2tBufcNQ8k/s320/DSCN3298.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
The points are set at 0.020", and care should be taken to be precise, for the point gap affects the ignition timing. Even better, use a timing light. If the Set Points mark is between the two marks on the engine, it is correct. Time the top plug with the Set Points T and the bottom with the Set Points B. 1,000 RPM is recommended, but is not critical as the timing does not advance with RPM relative to the timing marks. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWNRWrL1u6u_eqispbVWbcMjyDfGD_LUlWWdOYwh3AEokXQgVkJOrakYGd-AOxUtJfO0-SWJncJajjeXgvQgLU14t6OiO7JzL-4aQ6-obFbtbaGYuPxrXQxaR_diCKZw2DRplEiNBEPNk/s1600/DSCN3338.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWNRWrL1u6u_eqispbVWbcMjyDfGD_LUlWWdOYwh3AEokXQgVkJOrakYGd-AOxUtJfO0-SWJncJajjeXgvQgLU14t6OiO7JzL-4aQ6-obFbtbaGYuPxrXQxaR_diCKZw2DRplEiNBEPNk/s320/DSCN3338.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
The timing does advance with throttle setting, but since the timing
marks move with the throttle, the timing light is accurate at any
throttle setting. Low speed operation RPM is primarily controlled by
the timing. The carburetor's throttle plate is at it's idle setting
throughout the low speed range, while the timing varies. At higher
speeds, the timing and throttle plate move together. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSmqYU0ye4Nb3vq0HTw4IX8ZJEmtJ5gIVOVH1Y5mKhN9ekytwyJiqkDS9SBXL0VYzE2SkIfrqZs6SHcxJkkDy6Hwk99YEzq1nOadPBInPLDeWZAjb8V3jtWqkuiD-CNFqJPaqtQnaDHHQ/s1600/DSCN3331.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSmqYU0ye4Nb3vq0HTw4IX8ZJEmtJ5gIVOVH1Y5mKhN9ekytwyJiqkDS9SBXL0VYzE2SkIfrqZs6SHcxJkkDy6Hwk99YEzq1nOadPBInPLDeWZAjb8V3jtWqkuiD-CNFqJPaqtQnaDHHQ/s320/DSCN3331.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Some pictures of the powerhead. A few screw heads are rusty, but that's about it. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBILMm-hUY6zzUmdS7s9HHyShzb464hnTl03_4yPGT-cCnmDLdEQ2226sMtTpSNmi4qIf2Zgo2Psvg0t6gQ4nAIJmQHnHrp9-SaxC-lo3pfrrfj9Y1FSdHiFJu_WqZrAUzQy64U8KgrBg/s1600/DSCN3332.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBILMm-hUY6zzUmdS7s9HHyShzb464hnTl03_4yPGT-cCnmDLdEQ2226sMtTpSNmi4qIf2Zgo2Psvg0t6gQ4nAIJmQHnHrp9-SaxC-lo3pfrrfj9Y1FSdHiFJu_WqZrAUzQy64U8KgrBg/s320/DSCN3332.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
This motor is remarkably easy to start, and runs very well throughout it's speed range. It may be 42 years old, but it runs like new. It was a good choice for my application, and it's age doesn't worry me a bit.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7412846647818539522.post-30933732967484677222012-07-26T20:07:00.000-07:002015-05-23T03:58:32.573-07:00AMF Alcort Sunbird sailboat<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixpVA51wtZNmKLdjfh_it1QMYLyWZPpWiA3zxmYbO9AxHCGX84rxshXKlr388xG6XUCxTqJKTqhDOZWX_gqOe2DN9vlEJy0r9kUpDfsGPII09HDS8HHUr3x996ygXlUJE8Yt2GYwTFyNs/s1600/DSCN3076.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixpVA51wtZNmKLdjfh_it1QMYLyWZPpWiA3zxmYbO9AxHCGX84rxshXKlr388xG6XUCxTqJKTqhDOZWX_gqOe2DN9vlEJy0r9kUpDfsGPII09HDS8HHUr3x996ygXlUJE8Yt2GYwTFyNs/s400/DSCN3076.JPG" width="400" /></a>My latest project is a 1979 Sunbird sailboat. This picture is as purchased. Astute observers will immediately notice a couple of major problems! First, the mast is being carried in a very poorly supported and unstable manner. The second is that the trailer is absurdly short for this boat.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE7a91onvILO3DPfvp_h3LpKM-mKDxXBF3erJmONosmzN_p9ikYtra4IMQnogqLFkT_TuvJo2F18AOBkVEJxHYjeG355potks-1NkNw_7K7t_qHy60T9brYbiCOHu2_HyMIHlxb2Rl6nU/s1600/DSCN3117.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE7a91onvILO3DPfvp_h3LpKM-mKDxXBF3erJmONosmzN_p9ikYtra4IMQnogqLFkT_TuvJo2F18AOBkVEJxHYjeG355potks-1NkNw_7K7t_qHy60T9brYbiCOHu2_HyMIHlxb2Rl6nU/s400/DSCN3117.JPG" width="400" /></a>I decided I wasn't going anywhere with this setup, so I concentrated my initial efforts on the trailer. Step one was to lengthen the trailer. I was able to add 24" to the frame, and 36" to the wooden bunks. Since the Sunbird manual recommends 4 keel rollers, I added them, using brackets made from Unistrut. They make sturdy brackets, and were much cheaper, especially since I had the Unistrut on hand.<br />
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An inspection of the trailer wiring revealed that nothing was worth salvaging, so I replaced everything and installed LED tail lights. The lights I bought claimed to be submersible, but they were submersible in the same way an inverted cup is submersible. There were openings in the bottom for the wires, and the lenses were sealed with simple foam gaskets. I made them truly waterproof by sealing all the holes and seams with hot melt glue.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMzMuaEAvpNr5e47d66lShTihG_HYIfeQGRoDGLW2oIkkiGn3Ixn22hdhj42zWBfzqTFuBmWholyEbFb4xBKyT18ZjnXieDQKrD3_gQNk2n8XLuYkuMR_fA4E6THksUMiy-dvIAZkGzGs/s1600/DSCN3135.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMzMuaEAvpNr5e47d66lShTihG_HYIfeQGRoDGLW2oIkkiGn3Ixn22hdhj42zWBfzqTFuBmWholyEbFb4xBKyT18ZjnXieDQKrD3_gQNk2n8XLuYkuMR_fA4E6THksUMiy-dvIAZkGzGs/s320/DSCN3135.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
Now to tackle the mast support problem. My goal was to have something that is sturdy, easily removable, and lockable. I also decided to add a center stop light to reduce the risk of getting rear ended in traffic. In addition, the mast protrudes about 4 feet past the trailer lights, which is a bit too far. By adding lights to the mast support, this distance is reduced to 2 feet. The support is a bar of aluminum 1/2" x 1 1/2", and the mast holder is made from 1/8" aluminum. The support has pockets on the back side that the rudder hinges go into. Then a 5/16" rod drops into the top rudder hinge, locking to it securely. When the mast is installed, the rod cannot be backed out. The mast is secured with a padlock, securing everything in place. <br />
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The lights plug into a receptacle next to one of the trailer lights. The lights are bright and hard to miss. <br />
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The boom block's plastic pulleys were degraded from 30 years of exposure to the elements. Since I have a 3D printer, I decided to put it to use, and print my own replacement pulleys in ABS.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEkltOYpuGvT-hTw9CZmqT-V2ct8ijY77dZMHFgVLYIO1Yo791QiVj2oTRNVfeUN5f0QvjIR0__8CjkZTpkJ_xfItVjHnsOvqcdEkb9vX2nZYNY3lIY68pdsCfDMZ50cfvs47g9pV1Mmg/s1600/DSCN3150.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEkltOYpuGvT-hTw9CZmqT-V2ct8ijY77dZMHFgVLYIO1Yo791QiVj2oTRNVfeUN5f0QvjIR0__8CjkZTpkJ_xfItVjHnsOvqcdEkb9vX2nZYNY3lIY68pdsCfDMZ50cfvs47g9pV1Mmg/s400/DSCN3150.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
I began by milling of the head of the rivets holding the block together. I milled as little as possible off, for I plan on reusing the rivet.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRryi7yn5F0E-L7qOqGYp00XOxuWZtuQaguNi2pFctqc7Zq1s1bshRjYEQrCARvlqPKMic8CWtTnWPd8qLEKE9qcjPXiJKrlWXo6P9mgZ7TXvRhETWwl77i2HELQBhriPs6uAqoph2YAc/s1600/DSCN3153.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRryi7yn5F0E-L7qOqGYp00XOxuWZtuQaguNi2pFctqc7Zq1s1bshRjYEQrCARvlqPKMic8CWtTnWPd8qLEKE9qcjPXiJKrlWXo6P9mgZ7TXvRhETWwl77i2HELQBhriPs6uAqoph2YAc/s200/DSCN3153.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNS_u7T-JPHXsHvGT_50xEwSK6t1P8cT5EkR5hvgGB8KvgD-FY_VgWeFRMrEmZ5cwDVl4dEeaFJOtcWcZSfkMqHfuVhAfZKOldADYan6eNnxOQg2c8FhpPHRHRyQwP9ekBs0wnLyBdKR0/s1600/DSCN3168.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNS_u7T-JPHXsHvGT_50xEwSK6t1P8cT5EkR5hvgGB8KvgD-FY_VgWeFRMrEmZ5cwDVl4dEeaFJOtcWcZSfkMqHfuVhAfZKOldADYan6eNnxOQg2c8FhpPHRHRyQwP9ekBs0wnLyBdKR0/s320/DSCN3168.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I reassembled the block using stacks of washers to prevent the block from spreading now that the rivet's head is gone. This works well, and below is the rebuilt block.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaHrZuhgtP9t_aFZeTFetFZVEpi20HnVwboUq5knGiS0BnZ6Fhrbd8rrFEImeJNZzMxZpxwQe_iWiggjJOz7b7d7DyNAowzFK31YC_CinlV_F9qty4GnjAfRStubVfjVJnJHXaXuTzWJM/s1600/DSCN3169.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaHrZuhgtP9t_aFZeTFetFZVEpi20HnVwboUq5knGiS0BnZ6Fhrbd8rrFEImeJNZzMxZpxwQe_iWiggjJOz7b7d7DyNAowzFK31YC_CinlV_F9qty4GnjAfRStubVfjVJnJHXaXuTzWJM/s400/DSCN3169.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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I practiced rigging it in my back yard. Note the mouse-eaten sails. <br />
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The Sunbird's maiden voyage was a success. There are no leaks, and we didn't have any mishaps. The Sunbird is a great boat. Stable (for an un-ballasted boat) and easy to handle, she moves along nicely in gentle 5 knot winds. A nice (and inexpensive!) way to spend a Sunday afternoon.<br />
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However, it is not very nice when the wind drops to zero! The Sunbird
took a surprising amount of effort to paddle in. That experience made
it clear that an auxiliary motor was essential. The Sunbird manual
recommends a long shaft motor, max 6 HP. Unfortunately, long shafts
are not common on the used market, and new motors are prohibitively
expensive. I found a 1970 6HP short shaft Evinrude in very good
condition, so I bought it and then got to work designing a motor mount
to enable me to use it. This gave me the opportunity to solve a second
problem. Where to put the gas tank? There isn't much room in the
cockpit, especially when one is scrambling around adjusting the sails
and switching sides to balance the boat. Therefore, I designed a mount
which both lowers the motor and holds a gas tank. As a bonus, the motor
is moved 10 inches off the stern, completely removing it from the
cockpit area. I made the mount from 1/8" aluminum sheet and 1" x 1 1/2"
bar stock and bolted everything together with 47<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnY3wwtJHcTQtpQvN7WrEcQayDkGSDTzYluxTttLQc2rbFcI28rehPXJWHTvkFjBfOBQNx90oAB8J5J9nncfU7CAF0sMhJYbv3vV_4BtOB1trK-xovWIJObTIdCGaQI9KZLsJlLejpnQk/s1600/DSCN3217.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnY3wwtJHcTQtpQvN7WrEcQayDkGSDTzYluxTttLQc2rbFcI28rehPXJWHTvkFjBfOBQNx90oAB8J5J9nncfU7CAF0sMhJYbv3vV_4BtOB1trK-xovWIJObTIdCGaQI9KZLsJlLejpnQk/s320/DSCN3217.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge8RY8Oj8tS0SeLEgDglBsT104wu2lawXnxkcunag-DD5GGDLbbzT6xOHBqsJUBeTnRpv97Qvoue0f4lwNJVaV52hLcLjQRBTEA6cahEDkXcfTuy1zNPScGNtjRDgAVcVsd4ynw-o4yBA/s1600/DSCN3218.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge8RY8Oj8tS0SeLEgDglBsT104wu2lawXnxkcunag-DD5GGDLbbzT6xOHBqsJUBeTnRpv97Qvoue0f4lwNJVaV52hLcLjQRBTEA6cahEDkXcfTuy1zNPScGNtjRDgAVcVsd4ynw-o4yBA/s320/DSCN3218.JPG" width="320" /></a>10-32 stainless screws. I wanted this mount to survive the worst possible conditions while protecting the gas tank and remaining securely attached to the boat and motor. The mount can hold a 1 1/2 gallon tank, which is all I need.<br />
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I machined an aluminum cap with tubing fittings for the fuel and vent lines. It is spill proof and impervious to water splashing in.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLwwAlGhGtCKFl-WqDuBVgB7S4Xj4SGLFJDYKmXmC7bcU05rkqEqxKrMeaj3VMLlISExYioEA8nxpBhH-mw_CL6GKswNKTa2WMINVj2XuaSw-dM96EzmQZ5UVq0aW9Cixw9pVUrKIs03E/s1600/DSCN3370.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLwwAlGhGtCKFl-WqDuBVgB7S4Xj4SGLFJDYKmXmC7bcU05rkqEqxKrMeaj3VMLlISExYioEA8nxpBhH-mw_CL6GKswNKTa2WMINVj2XuaSw-dM96EzmQZ5UVq0aW9Cixw9pVUrKIs03E/s320/DSCN3370.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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These pictures are of the original concept. I have since trimmed the top twice and raised the mount 3 inches. The pictures above are of the original design while the picture below is of the second generation.</div>
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It is bolted to the boat with four 5/16" stainless bolts. The upper part of the Sunbird's transom is reinforced with wood inside, making it plenty strong to support the motor in this fashion. The 1970 Evinrude is a nice little motor. It is extremely well made, and easy to start. It is also remarkably quite at no-wake speeds, which is the condition that I will be primarily using it in. At 6HP, it will be loafing most of the time, while a smaller engine would need to be run at higher throttle settings. It is also not excessively heavy at around 45 pounds. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi42zp7mljiJTamSu2QOT6TTZue6PoH25CvwTQfi3Q2PvxzgFtG9XEEYlx5Sm_wUHj2GZXLlk1jrFfPK4QAQeTAjzCpQwfPtUfyNODmKLtCHOUVWPVrJAYuxBCfcPk5UhOa9S-DnkJJiN4/s1600/DSCN3221.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi42zp7mljiJTamSu2QOT6TTZue6PoH25CvwTQfi3Q2PvxzgFtG9XEEYlx5Sm_wUHj2GZXLlk1jrFfPK4QAQeTAjzCpQwfPtUfyNODmKLtCHOUVWPVrJAYuxBCfcPk5UhOa9S-DnkJJiN4/s400/DSCN3221.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
The motor moved the boat along nicely on my first open water test, going what I estimate was about 12 knots, and burning less than 1 gph. Full throttle was surprisingly quiet. I was curious about the condition of the water pump when I returned home, and after dismantling, I found the pump housing to be badly corroded and the impeller worn. Pumps housings, new or used, are expensive. So, I decided to fix mine with a stainless steel liner. By lucky coincidence, the inside diameter of the pump was nearly identical to the diameter of my scrapped Craftsman air compressor cylinders, which are stainless steel sleeves. I bored out the pump housing, and installed a section of the Craftsman cylinder as a liner.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivDYpl-AdWFNiO-vyP_XWX-s4DOcWkOpRxsU8L5hOfWbNTEkM-CjPb3en9sUhFY1tMcrokQzl-JW-ecyhw2hsRTiUK6QXrbrneMQEdpdkNl2PN-_75sujNMvkx0Lw7DZXnAnLh7b7yYAs/s1600/DSCN3264.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivDYpl-AdWFNiO-vyP_XWX-s4DOcWkOpRxsU8L5hOfWbNTEkM-CjPb3en9sUhFY1tMcrokQzl-JW-ecyhw2hsRTiUK6QXrbrneMQEdpdkNl2PN-_75sujNMvkx0Lw7DZXnAnLh7b7yYAs/s320/DSCN3264.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Then I once again raised the motor mount to it's third, and final position. Now the short shaft motor is mounted only 2 inches below the Sunbird's transom, and it is still plenty deep in the water. It now clears the water when raised by 3 inches.<br />
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Every sailing trip has made me aware of something that needs to be repaired or improved. The latest is the rudder spring pin. The hole in the rudder was greatly enlarged, so I made a pair of aluminum bushings to fit in the hole after I drilled it out to restore it to a round shape.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF5f-6wZmbRCc4ae1Uex7Z1_XrSRXW6BGMXLcuf9xm1bB_iyqV9zHL_5PgKibYglxvxSqHPsKtXXKV232GRg5BfeFGU_BBwDzd9fH5cGURXreuQXysHUX1dd3WTwQI1mBicoqPxj9wGA8/s1600/DSCN3346.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF5f-6wZmbRCc4ae1Uex7Z1_XrSRXW6BGMXLcuf9xm1bB_iyqV9zHL_5PgKibYglxvxSqHPsKtXXKV232GRg5BfeFGU_BBwDzd9fH5cGURXreuQXysHUX1dd3WTwQI1mBicoqPxj9wGA8/s320/DSCN3346.JPG" width="320" /></a> At right, the pin and bushings. Note ugly hole in rudder. Below right. Bushings on pin. When installed in the rudder hole, the bushings meet in the middle.<br />
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Bottom: Installed in rudder. The larger diameter combined with the flanges should prevent the hole from distorting again.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2u7JjO7M5TMRF1y15CjkBGvsHAyUeqbuYYW-Qm7IrWjGgTi2OJ0d-UuPTzKqcBVlSgJMzqzyv_1nxLZT9bmNGqvpiyu69BcQ7TJayOy3Uvvo1QLmfVVitXt43b5lVvoDcE1APYILApGw/s1600/DSCN3354.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2u7JjO7M5TMRF1y15CjkBGvsHAyUeqbuYYW-Qm7IrWjGgTi2OJ0d-UuPTzKqcBVlSgJMzqzyv_1nxLZT9bmNGqvpiyu69BcQ7TJayOy3Uvvo1QLmfVVitXt43b5lVvoDcE1APYILApGw/s320/DSCN3354.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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Another quick fix. The bracket at the top of the mast was missing, and the previous owner simply tied the end of the boom cable to the mast. I made one out of aluminum C channel.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvi97aJxso-PLG0_fhmVWcuUFgGEFoehX4U1JExvIJUqq6kIxLpWLkHRYT50T4s8TSRY1Pof5s4fDVRFrS0HONF9XFmhLtfaxpN0PRY9plt90AA63VG5Oug8RVT61wp0rDmC1JmeCiNPs/s1600/DSCN3406.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvi97aJxso-PLG0_fhmVWcuUFgGEFoehX4U1JExvIJUqq6kIxLpWLkHRYT50T4s8TSRY1Pof5s4fDVRFrS0HONF9XFmhLtfaxpN0PRY9plt90AA63VG5Oug8RVT61wp0rDmC1JmeCiNPs/s320/DSCN3406.JPG" width="320" /></a> I quickly realized that raising the mast without assistance was a risky
operation. First, you are standing inside a boat with an uneven deck
and obstructions like the boom pulley in the center of the deck.
Second, the boat is likely a bit unstable even though it is on a
trailer. Third, the mast is 20 feet tall, and you are at a huge
disadvantage as you are holding the mast only a few feet from it's
bottom. Lose your balance when you are halfway up and the mast can fall
to the side, for the side stays are still slack, or it may fall back on
you. Once you have the mast fully upright, the fun is just beginning!
Now you have to maintain forward pressure on the mast while walking
around the cabin and up to the bow to attach the fore stay. Hopefully
you have the fore stay in one hand, and it is not tangled up with the
various ropes and rigging. Now attach the fore stay to the bow fitting
while not letting go of the mast. Yes, it can be done, and has been
done by many people for many years. But it only takes one slip to lose
control of the mast and probably break something. Even worse, you will
be quite embarrassed if anybody was watching you at the time. Rather
than risk the embarrassment, I devised a safe and simple way to erect
and lower the mast solo. I attached a simple pulley to the bow fitting and then I tied the ends of the jib rope together. I then tied my mast raising rope to the jib ropes and threaded it through the pulley. Now I raised the mast in the conventional manner, but while taking slack out of the rope. The mast is much more stable, with less of a tendency to fall to either side. Once it is fully raised, simply wrap the rope around the cleats at the base of the mast, and the mast is secure. You can now go up to the bow fitting at your leisure, without worrying about losing control of the mast. I have also found it easier to tighten the fore stay since I can put tension on the rope while tightening the turnbuckle. The pulley is not in the way of the jib, so I just leave it there and attach the jib to the next hole. To lower the mast, simply reverse the process. For me, the reduction of accident risk is well worth the few extra minutes it takes to attach and remove the rope. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpm7Ud8PEHrEBHO77TFkdFDEfHYEO9EnuPUgG3fuXDbBZn87bTo_fmnhaqQ3HwFttLWo7iL1B9R7l0Ht4cG0cgna-Mmg5_eXu5s2a9eJN6shNp1jciofLyNH2JkridAWI356bBSXvTxzg/s1600/Sunbird+mast+raising.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" height="492" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpm7Ud8PEHrEBHO77TFkdFDEfHYEO9EnuPUgG3fuXDbBZn87bTo_fmnhaqQ3HwFttLWo7iL1B9R7l0Ht4cG0cgna-Mmg5_eXu5s2a9eJN6shNp1jciofLyNH2JkridAWI356bBSXvTxzg/s640/Sunbird+mast+raising.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This picture could have been taken in 1983. A 100% vintage rig: A 1983 Ford towing the 1979 Sunbird on a 1979 Dilly trailer. Observant readers will notice that the sails and boom are removed. A gusty crosswind was blowing across the ramp that day, so I removed the sails at the dock.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFcb1irkhuUfWmXkpnFxxwsfO7iRmVVZ416UV7Tt-68pd_hqngJ_lJpL8fyTGJdC85ssjWNTjFvkYjZKEyuDd4bB9KuQe8M9mDibCnPNfsaCXbz1RzCsZWC98LLz5rBzxZmmcehQrEJ38/s1600/DSCN3428.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFcb1irkhuUfWmXkpnFxxwsfO7iRmVVZ416UV7Tt-68pd_hqngJ_lJpL8fyTGJdC85ssjWNTjFvkYjZKEyuDd4bB9KuQe8M9mDibCnPNfsaCXbz1RzCsZWC98LLz5rBzxZmmcehQrEJ38/s400/DSCN3428.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7412846647818539522.post-19160551868132225812012-04-02T12:46:00.000-07:002012-04-02T12:46:03.368-07:001920's era Athol ViseI've received a few inquiries about my Athol vise, so I've made it a separate entry with additional pictures. What makes this vise unusual is the dog clutch in the handle that allows the handle to be repositioned by pulling straight out on the handle and rotating.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw15oWHZo8QFUb_C3EtdlCDMWKp-H718_QIOLjsORcBewxDd715C03FLOzmyxC40oD1DIm4k4V4Nm41LXlxSO7B54QnXGH2x-7DTM4mopNntuyVPgSzrqrv4szhTjPf4dJA4EpAwVrnkk/s1600/DSCN2300.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw15oWHZo8QFUb_C3EtdlCDMWKp-H718_QIOLjsORcBewxDd715C03FLOzmyxC40oD1DIm4k4V4Nm41LXlxSO7B54QnXGH2x-7DTM4mopNntuyVPgSzrqrv4szhTjPf4dJA4EpAwVrnkk/s400/DSCN2300.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
These teeth are rounded just enough to allow the clutch to slip under load. I removed the spring and tightened down on the nut to prevent it from disengaging.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKyRffauk-WJqYMByLm4S8z9IqZAPn92tu1Ej7Q5FsaL_poesbMaFT4iUGkEHtgVm797JuEEKHO3IeWVwpHbXZ6ifSvSsAnc0u-0pB2zJNNsW0oqbiI_5OoxCGXllrNGy6OsYrmm3lNMA/s1600/DSCN2970.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKyRffauk-WJqYMByLm4S8z9IqZAPn92tu1Ej7Q5FsaL_poesbMaFT4iUGkEHtgVm797JuEEKHO3IeWVwpHbXZ6ifSvSsAnc0u-0pB2zJNNsW0oqbiI_5OoxCGXllrNGy6OsYrmm3lNMA/s400/DSCN2970.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
A 14/20 screw holds the handle on the shaft<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSU0Lk1JM3ecQq2bUwu_iO5G6UT4B4M5jF1IhPkYVaciGDHIB2oO1QyGW54Gwoydi_lpNEO5RhOohlC2f6Prb9iVGNN7PaRJK4PfxsadzhtP-fqdGwzr24P6HQq7jdujxrppivLRh8lb8/s1600/DSCN2972.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSU0Lk1JM3ecQq2bUwu_iO5G6UT4B4M5jF1IhPkYVaciGDHIB2oO1QyGW54Gwoydi_lpNEO5RhOohlC2f6Prb9iVGNN7PaRJK4PfxsadzhtP-fqdGwzr24P6HQq7jdujxrppivLRh8lb8/s400/DSCN2972.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
These teeth are also worn.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0aWa9nk623eOSbRkJCG3eNh0Negqj0WqCoWbsC0u0ZCnNa2k2m2whj7RyMYZoglby6d6HY-HGekcbodQO06ACscVCK643GEVCyewayisykB4t89EgqDexwuNkegEbing5Y9e5SgR8hzk/s1600/DSCN2973.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0aWa9nk623eOSbRkJCG3eNh0Negqj0WqCoWbsC0u0ZCnNa2k2m2whj7RyMYZoglby6d6HY-HGekcbodQO06ACscVCK643GEVCyewayisykB4t89EgqDexwuNkegEbing5Y9e5SgR8hzk/s400/DSCN2973.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
The spring went in here. I removed it and made a sleeve to go in it's place to prevent the clutch from disengaging.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_goCH46SNjvIRh23DvPdJ9M8fkbB9l6qv2c63PdAXF76YwGoSAC-Lu2_-51ncE2Yz7RDYcNHO_ycG4_9vJ4CB5nFp5ytSNpWfiYmWxyhoRuZ_D4PyPXhaQmjU1pvDBx7VWt-f33_Qe2E/s1600/DSCN2974.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_goCH46SNjvIRh23DvPdJ9M8fkbB9l6qv2c63PdAXF76YwGoSAC-Lu2_-51ncE2Yz7RDYcNHO_ycG4_9vJ4CB5nFp5ytSNpWfiYmWxyhoRuZ_D4PyPXhaQmjU1pvDBx7VWt-f33_Qe2E/s400/DSCN2974.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7412846647818539522.post-72316829163149075022012-03-14T21:04:00.000-07:002014-01-22T19:27:23.133-08:003 Years of Solar Hot Water Data<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Here is some of the most comprehensive data on solar hot water performance you will find anywhere: 3 years of daily records for my 80 gallon Reynolds solar hot water system. It has performed remarkably well, year round. The number of days it did not run at all is surprisingly small and consistent: 53 days in 2009, 49 days in 2010 and 48 days in 2011. The number of days it reached 100% of capacity is 120 days in 2009, 181 days in 2010, and 190 days in 2011. The number of hours it ran is a little less consistent: 1990 hours in 2009, 1888 hours in 2010 and 1651 hours in 2011. While it may seem odd that 2011 has both the fewest hours and the most 100% days, it is because the system needed to run less, as the storage tank was frequently still hot from the day before. Unfortunately, I don't have an hour meter on the electric heating elements, or a water meter to measure actual use. I estimate that we use between 30 and 40 gallons of hot water each day. Since the system uses only 175 watts when running, it is using less than $50/year in electricity, while saving over $400. The system has paid off the initial investment, and is now giving me a return in excess of 30%. </div>
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This is one form of renewable energy that is truly competitive with conventional sources. Here are the reasons why:</div>
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1: The systems are uncomplicated. Two panels with antifreeze circulating in them, a heat exchanger, a pair of small pumps, and a standard 80 electric hot water heater tank.</div>
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2: They are efficient. Hot water panels are approximately 40% -60% efficient vs. 14% for solar electric panels.</div>
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3: The systems are reliable. My panels, heat exchanger and pumps are all 28 years old, with plenty of life left in them.</div>
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4: Unlike solar or wind electric, the energy is easily stored for later use. It usually takes 3 overcast days for my system to go cold. In 2011, there were only 23 days where the system was below 90 degrees. Even 90 degrees provides a significant savings, as my electric heater does not have to heat 60 degree well water. Heating 90 degree water reduces my electric consumption by 30% vs. heating 60 degree water.</div>
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In 2009, the system made 63% of our hot water</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjaVqVXeNhobox43IMfLYDQWLETfDt_4dSlq5mEiHJ863qBvuERqRZjHJI1_2HE4eMO5hKUGIeR83f4AZii-Kkbu1PlCDxl2KOuNd3Sz2znPjTfuUSwa6H1nvennww3yFPdK6Mb7W6T0w/s1600/2009+solar+hot+water.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjaVqVXeNhobox43IMfLYDQWLETfDt_4dSlq5mEiHJ863qBvuERqRZjHJI1_2HE4eMO5hKUGIeR83f4AZii-Kkbu1PlCDxl2KOuNd3Sz2znPjTfuUSwa6H1nvennww3yFPdK6Mb7W6T0w/s400/2009+solar+hot+water.JPG" height="277" width="400" /></a></div>
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It 2010, it made 77%</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1QYGHOaNOKMhS4DqTPMir9l6tivF5jayipa7KLb3-jGp4GInxHW_r2shxd8PTbVogDgwwjbJFJby4NuRSyLEAHGU_5okHudVLDOdnlyJ0jCw_RAPi_ff-QngyKvrdjcF287sOzivnyzA/s1600/2010+solar+hot+water.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1QYGHOaNOKMhS4DqTPMir9l6tivF5jayipa7KLb3-jGp4GInxHW_r2shxd8PTbVogDgwwjbJFJby4NuRSyLEAHGU_5okHudVLDOdnlyJ0jCw_RAPi_ff-QngyKvrdjcF287sOzivnyzA/s400/2010+solar+hot+water.JPG" height="276" width="400" /></a></div>
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In 2011, a record 80%</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6RaGWNZjKxXfzg67Kh3aI5q9qOulNl_C4skM0EC55909uGBDOD7gYjwWgJZKL1QiO27pJmMOXGM-LDA11TJ0rGEHUXYVYEM4AZ72uxOD0NNPxYGzK8AnVf4Zdr05zoT5VKxTGcKrIH4w/s1600/2011+solar+hot+water.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6RaGWNZjKxXfzg67Kh3aI5q9qOulNl_C4skM0EC55909uGBDOD7gYjwWgJZKL1QiO27pJmMOXGM-LDA11TJ0rGEHUXYVYEM4AZ72uxOD0NNPxYGzK8AnVf4Zdr05zoT5VKxTGcKrIH4w/s400/2011+solar+hot+water.JPG" height="283" width="400" /></a></div>
Finally, some suggestions for those considering installing a system. If your latitude is in the 40's, angle your panels to at least 45 degrees. Why? Because if you have them at a lower angle, they will overheat in the summer, and under-perform in the winter. Ideally, the system is running through most of a hot summer day, which prevents the panels from overheating. When the antifreeze is not circulating, the panels can easily reach 220 Fahrenheit, and the antifreeze will begin to break down and become acidic. Not good for the pipes. An angle of 45 degrees or higher will reduce the amount of direct sun exposure in the summer, while still providing plenty of hot water.<br />
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The 45 degree angle helps in the winter, when the sun is low in the sky. The panels will capture a good amount of winter sun. Even in my worst winter, 2009, the system was making 40% of my hot water. Another advantage is that snow readily slides off the panels. I rarely lost more than a day due to snow coverage. If it was a sunny day, I would often turn on the pumps manually to defrost the panels. It wasn't long before the snow slid off and the panels were capturing more energy than the defrost mode used. This method worked with as much as 8 inches of snow on the panels.<br />
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I believe that for most people, evacuated tube collectors are unnecessary and simple flat panels are a better choice. Here my explanation why. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_jnpQKfNyVrPHQXkCiquBxBrXdxP45zFAL0zjjfXhI6g1_8yC-uxQUEo2tO2Fd4P-E_gdRAFkHwWuIEUtj7-v8NlfPzXRMzWP3NJpG_mwgjqmzHGYG_crdVZOFvPPTtqhrdR0FhBj0Ek/s1600/IMG_3221.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_jnpQKfNyVrPHQXkCiquBxBrXdxP45zFAL0zjjfXhI6g1_8yC-uxQUEo2tO2Fd4P-E_gdRAFkHwWuIEUtj7-v8NlfPzXRMzWP3NJpG_mwgjqmzHGYG_crdVZOFvPPTtqhrdR0FhBj0Ek/s1600/IMG_3221.JPG" height="177" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm83ykOsjaxqrC9JGo0QBHkiWgpvoADG7BgBbdLBfEcgEi6BNj6S9UhMTFQOw387jjFg7go_8b6YBjTWpFvmgYZPdm7bSAyJzE5wPwFCtH_YQHx1Gph4z7rVgLmmv7UbsiFZzBgeQJ6rM/s1600/IMG_3223.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm83ykOsjaxqrC9JGo0QBHkiWgpvoADG7BgBbdLBfEcgEi6BNj6S9UhMTFQOw387jjFg7go_8b6YBjTWpFvmgYZPdm7bSAyJzE5wPwFCtH_YQHx1Gph4z7rVgLmmv7UbsiFZzBgeQJ6rM/s1600/IMG_3223.JPG" height="172" width="320" /></a><br />
This is a picture of the panels on the day after a snowstorm that deposited about 12 cm of snow on the panels. It is 10:45 AM, and the outside temperature is -12c. A small area of the panels was exposed by the wind, and that was enough to begin to warm the panels the panels to 38c. The pumps started up, and soon the entire system was at 38c. That rapidly melted the remainder of the snow. By 11:40, the panels were 80% clear, and the system temperature was now 57c. <br />
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These pictures also illustrate why I believe that solar panels should be installed at a minimum angle of 45 degrees in northern climates. The snow readily slides off, and the panels are well positioned to capture the winter sun. They produce more than enough hot water in the summer, even though the sun is then higher than 45 degrees. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ5UaGwnvM6DCh_3T1ZOSwebBFXNIV3FWrnWYuwuwAZWNixNtHRw_XYtrnziBx5DXD-pu4KfTEU-BZtIyFVX68-sn5BoRw2Z1JVS1Cpxmcl8lYXiaQSFwjQPHFMwBcm2gfSSAoBWT_Wso/s1600/IMG_3224.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ5UaGwnvM6DCh_3T1ZOSwebBFXNIV3FWrnWYuwuwAZWNixNtHRw_XYtrnziBx5DXD-pu4KfTEU-BZtIyFVX68-sn5BoRw2Z1JVS1Cpxmcl8lYXiaQSFwjQPHFMwBcm2gfSSAoBWT_Wso/s1600/IMG_3224.JPG" height="200" width="198" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBOBi2uc7AqFVIy_KDowWrwVIKmxJDBgx4wAF9fwg6tdv-iCwTIioQqSqJ6vhwPaY77gSw9mzy080O-dGIJWXWwU7LxYmCDJlJyJlw7VzScidrWtE7K-gccKb-Cnand1SSnFCiIixzFpk/s1600/IMG_3225.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBOBi2uc7AqFVIy_KDowWrwVIKmxJDBgx4wAF9fwg6tdv-iCwTIioQqSqJ6vhwPaY77gSw9mzy080O-dGIJWXWwU7LxYmCDJlJyJlw7VzScidrWtE7K-gccKb-Cnand1SSnFCiIixzFpk/s1600/IMG_3225.JPG" height="185" width="200" /></a></div>
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In only 3 hours, the system had heated 300 liters of water from 23c to 43c, while the outside temperature never exceeded -10c, and the winds averaged 22kph. <br />
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Unfortunately I have no comparable data on the performance of evacuated tube collectors under these conditions, but this performance is very good, especially considering these panels are now 29 years old. It is unlikely that I will ever have to replace these panels, for given their current condition, I estimate their working life to be approximately 50 years. But if I did replace them, I would stay with flat panels <br />
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Upper right. Discharge temperature from 300 liter storage tank.<br />
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Lower right. Return temperature of antifreeze in panel loop. This temperature is after the heat exchanger. The water entering the exchanger from the panels is about 58c. <br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7412846647818539522.post-42491304744805903322012-03-08T13:51:00.000-08:002013-01-10T18:08:00.034-08:00Repairing a RapMan Controller<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<b>Has the extruder stepper driver circuit failed in your RapMan or BFB 3000 controller board? </b></div>
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Here is how I fixed mine in about 20 minutes using only a single piece of wire!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6FqLa0uXijDxFq5NUcK_i29OlH10_qYnDeD1ERsjgMvHfGJ8kJY1wC9CfVmuZDU2o9fcNR5_PJL26Iv-0BZIOB0loe3zEL7nEGSmVKABgqJ57agC93Pt6DHT7IHGvHJmHNEjAmsxfhkM/s1600/DSCN2910.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6FqLa0uXijDxFq5NUcK_i29OlH10_qYnDeD1ERsjgMvHfGJ8kJY1wC9CfVmuZDU2o9fcNR5_PJL26Iv-0BZIOB0loe3zEL7nEGSmVKABgqJ57agC93Pt6DHT7IHGvHJmHNEjAmsxfhkM/s400/DSCN2910.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The BFB board Version 3.3 Part #30003 is used in both the RapMan 3.1 and the BFB 3000. These boards have 3 Extruder outputs. That means your RapMan 3.1 has a built-in spare! Or TWO spares if you are running a single head. The trick is how to access those spares? While in theory it could be done in the firmware, I don't have the ability. So, I went for a hardware based solution. I began by tracing the circuits until I was able to identify the critical wires. It turns out that BFB made things exceptionally easy by sending all 3 extruders the same signals in parallel, and only making the "Enable" signals separate. That means that only one jumper is needed from the Enable #1 trace to the Enable #3 trace. The only other thing that is needed is to cut the traces leading TO stepper driver #1, and FROM the CPU to stepper driver #3. After that, just move the wires on the 25 pin connector from Stepper #1 to Stepper #3. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNqOyoppOSKYUZWX-ZgEE2ggHxQVEjLaBsSJ_wC0X3koQ0tfj-JwNlIe4ildWEWWnBbjXxQwnC2FzTmODxqvlkRUCyMemN2rua6QuKccmQvCwO9fOFuYf2TlpDZv-VWsORoAe2FhtDCZM/s1600/extruder30002+repair.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNqOyoppOSKYUZWX-ZgEE2ggHxQVEjLaBsSJ_wC0X3koQ0tfj-JwNlIe4ildWEWWnBbjXxQwnC2FzTmODxqvlkRUCyMemN2rua6QuKccmQvCwO9fOFuYf2TlpDZv-VWsORoAe2FhtDCZM/s400/extruder30002+repair.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
The driver chip is an Allegro A3979, and is available from various distributors. Replacing them is challenging, for the bottom of the chip is soldered directly to the board, which acts as a heat sink. This means that you can't simply heat the pins and remove the chip. I removed mine by heating the opposite side of the board with a large soldering iron after cutting the pins free and removing them. Unfortunately, I damaged the board in the process. That is when I decided to abandon the repair attempt and go with the far easier jumper fix described above.<br />
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Update: When I did this repair, extruder mapping was not in the firmware version available at that time. Now it is, and that renders this fix obsolete. However, you may have to replace a driver chip someday, like I just did when I fried another one. The Allegro chips do not tolerate having their outputs grounded. Having learned from the first disaster, this time I used my milling machine to cut the body of the chip away, leaving just the pins. These were now easily removed one at a time with a small tip soldering iron. Mouser's catalog listed the Texas Instruments DRV 8811 as a direct replacement, with a disclaimer, of course. I looked at the pin arrangement, voltages, and everything looked good, so I bought some. I soldered one in by first putting a small blob of solder on the circuit board heat sink pad and then heating the board from the back. The chip nicely settled into place, and then I soldered the pins. Sure enough, the chip ran the extruder drive nicely. Interestingly, the motor is much quieter, for the TI chip runs at a lower PWM frequency. The motor also runs slightly cooler, but has the same torque as before. However, when I tried printing, something was wrong. Soon I realized that the stepper was running too fast. Twice as fast as it should. Then I remembered Mouser's disclaimer and went back over the data sheets for both the Allegro and TI chips. The Allegro offers full step, 1/2 step, 1/4 step and 1/16 step. The TI has full step, 1/2 step, 1/4 step and 1/8 step. The BFB board was set for 1/16, and the TI chip was running at 1/8, or twice as fast.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIp9F4lsJ-4D7jX2AnV2ZwL6d6O2BVMsbcaHz8qSR_ZF338jBdoq6TotxN5fBFxjitqIYbd2zdKuF9uUZGzopCL_pGcXolDBJqYITu1HygQFUmNkeDkH3Vhs3YMIdYBd_verZU7LOPMYA/s1600/DSCN3546.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIp9F4lsJ-4D7jX2AnV2ZwL6d6O2BVMsbcaHz8qSR_ZF338jBdoq6TotxN5fBFxjitqIYbd2zdKuF9uUZGzopCL_pGcXolDBJqYITu1HygQFUmNkeDkH3Vhs3YMIdYBd_verZU7LOPMYA/s200/DSCN3546.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
Rats. There was no way the fragile pads on the circuit board were going to survive another chip change, and the TI chip is otherwise a very good chip. I decided that instead of removing the chip, I would slow it down by slowing down the signal controlling the chip. The speed of the stepper is determined by the frequency of the incoming pulses. So, I decided to cut the frequency in half by making a divide by 2 circuit from a flip-flop. I mounted this chip on a separate board, and then cut the control line to the extruder on the back of the board. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG4I3rSwhy25uibbVAh8ZF8__tP3-_OlKaWAZMyl_OWQ3Y_tGm46NSD30MCw2ukMxSEQQ59eUxuszsP7xCLFMG-ri9_Ncad2221-ZqzHORujDm6V8or9cmn7eIv4Dk9i-9mLcZLK0q-V0/s1600/DSCN3555.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG4I3rSwhy25uibbVAh8ZF8__tP3-_OlKaWAZMyl_OWQ3Y_tGm46NSD30MCw2ukMxSEQQ59eUxuszsP7xCLFMG-ri9_Ncad2221-ZqzHORujDm6V8or9cmn7eIv4Dk9i-9mLcZLK0q-V0/s320/DSCN3555.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Wires from left to right: Ground, Clock input to flip flop, "Q" output from flip flop, and +3.3 volts.<br />
This works perfectly. My two extruders now track perfectly in speed, with the only noticeable difference is that the motor being driven by the TI chip is quieter. <br />
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My divide by 2 trick does not turn the TI chip into a 1/16 microstepper. Rather, it is more accurately a 1/8 microstepper running at half speed. This is not a problem on an extruder drive which is running anywhere from 24 to 90 RPM.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7412846647818539522.post-61697574691437671722012-02-11T22:00:00.000-08:002014-03-07T15:55:16.511-08:00Installing a Tailstock Cam Lock on a 7x Mini Lathe<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5wNEEb9llO44rAE8jHAkRk-vwHPTbCWYSLNFr0IjVhOCqq9Ko4qg4Lj035ajfVXPN2hAUse2D5JIY9FuEWCN7_DzVb3PDuoBjDTYbYrCWoNg5uLdhOdbcBlkgJZQD0bydTchu0B282oY/s1600/480.2018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5wNEEb9llO44rAE8jHAkRk-vwHPTbCWYSLNFr0IjVhOCqq9Ko4qg4Lj035ajfVXPN2hAUse2D5JIY9FuEWCN7_DzVb3PDuoBjDTYbYrCWoNg5uLdhOdbcBlkgJZQD0bydTchu0B282oY/s320/480.2018.jpg" height="312" width="320" /></a>I purchased a Mini Lathe <a href="http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2018&category=">Tailstock Cam Lock</a> from Little Machine Shop. It is a well made kit. Actually, I think it is superior to the factory installed locks I've seen on some Mini Lathes.<br />
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This is normally an easy to install kit. However, my tailstock casting was quite uneven where the kit would be resting. I decided to machine the bottom of the kit to match the angle of my casting.<br />
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I had to cut a compound angle and file a radius on the bottom of my kit to get it aligned correctly. Once I had a good fit, I drilled the hole for the shaft.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiskTieRpFbd4euNncpaw7wjnt4vsmQtF-RMDFFl90v_RtF0YEtP-sl6EbK0BrhN6UBFwXQouNuo_i9cREihmMmnKGAyoIlI7yahlgf9ACnBSgbG2EY4gTccUhFa6YoZ4hgz2Ud1ZdeK3Y/s1600/DSCN2848.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiskTieRpFbd4euNncpaw7wjnt4vsmQtF-RMDFFl90v_RtF0YEtP-sl6EbK0BrhN6UBFwXQouNuo_i9cREihmMmnKGAyoIlI7yahlgf9ACnBSgbG2EY4gTccUhFa6YoZ4hgz2Ud1ZdeK3Y/s200/DSCN2848.JPG" height="149" width="200" /></a>Even though cutting the angle made my kit shorter, I nearly came out of the top of the flat area on the rear of the tailstock.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_9ERxRcRf5fHccjHH6oQupJ_aJGtOMaqozRcoZlkDWxV9cdD2JNQO0LmoYiGaIyD_7NQpC0dpZj0WGyNCUDtiuHJ-3Ot7ntTtN5imofXR-OysJdDHwbLobvVuOU-pPI8rZ-tI15rdCHA/s1600/DSCN2845.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_9ERxRcRf5fHccjHH6oQupJ_aJGtOMaqozRcoZlkDWxV9cdD2JNQO0LmoYiGaIyD_7NQpC0dpZj0WGyNCUDtiuHJ-3Ot7ntTtN5imofXR-OysJdDHwbLobvVuOU-pPI8rZ-tI15rdCHA/s200/DSCN2845.JPG" height="149" width="200" /></a></div>
Like everything else on this casting, this flat area was not flat, so I milled it flat. Then I added a flat washer and a wave spring washer to eliminate the sloppy feel of the handle when in the unlocked position. It works fine without it, especially of you install a spring like the one included in LMS's <a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_161893042">Tweaks<span style="color: white;">.</span>&<span style="color: white;">.</span>E</a><span style="color: black;"><a href="http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2634&category=">nhancements</a> kit</span>. But I like to make everything feel as precise as possible.<br />
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. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTVP345gJf2NgQ3JBIN2JifpcYgFzUHj-vV0gLveatmJXEAEKiJtW2JW_o9dooBM-qPEtFY99yobpx9jul6NlkMjUIc8ZUHTnIeT4mFBR_W6fwI4_qlCgouJISNjsZw8VrTFk5wvNQDT4/s1600/DSCN2849.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTVP345gJf2NgQ3JBIN2JifpcYgFzUHj-vV0gLveatmJXEAEKiJtW2JW_o9dooBM-qPEtFY99yobpx9jul6NlkMjUIc8ZUHTnIeT4mFBR_W6fwI4_qlCgouJISNjsZw8VrTFk5wvNQDT4/s320/DSCN2849.JPG" height="239" width="320" /> </a></div>
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A front view. I am very pleased with this kit. It operates smoothly and locks solidly. A vast improvement over the original lock nut.</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7412846647818539522.post-10991457665738578242012-02-08T21:28:00.000-08:002014-04-23T04:43:52.987-07:00Upgrading a Sears air compressor with a Harbor Freight pump.<br />
I installed a Harbor Freight 3 HP air compressor unit on my Sears Craftsman compressor, which was a piece of junk that twice snapped it's connecting rods. While the HF unit is well made, with a sturdy 2 cylinder cast iron block , it was driven by a flimsy cast aluminum pulley with very thin spokes that acted as fan blades. It ran maybe a hundred hours before one of the spokes broke. It was clear that it was under a lot of stress from improper annealing after casting, and it broke under tension, leaving a gap of about .003". I tried to weld it, but could not stress relieve it adequately. It ran a few hours before snapping the remaining spokes.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmcAUTXb0EV5sY-hvJTbn1OrEKuewvtwvkv5j5aIvi66Am7DMjl08ay6wJAhCCMoS6-H7sv_qG4D7SoMArJvq1bKWKBggXF4GcL3vPBi0rSGlclQ9ELSu-8Wf5Kn-uinRRJaGslPLcZvg/s1600/DSCN2816.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmcAUTXb0EV5sY-hvJTbn1OrEKuewvtwvkv5j5aIvi66Am7DMjl08ay6wJAhCCMoS6-H7sv_qG4D7SoMArJvq1bKWKBggXF4GcL3vPBi0rSGlclQ9ELSu-8Wf5Kn-uinRRJaGslPLcZvg/s400/DSCN2816.JPG" height="298" width="400" /></a></div>
I<span style="color: white;">.</span>wasn't about to buy a replacement from Harbor Freight, because it
would likely fail also. The spokes are simply too thin to withstand the
stresses put on it by the air compressor. Maybe I could find a similar
pulley from someone else, but it would have to match the tapered shaft
of the HF compressor. I decided to turn it into a machine shop project
and rebuild it with stronger spokes made from 1.5" x 0.5" aluminum bar
stock. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7lIM-fSZbezNbhAfovlTeZZHViHPXUgv9cWdQVPK4vyBP43t9QyZliHVFruIXr1dpiikzFd-kVsCB5HYi5PzvZej1xJsSO8PvY0L2kg1GfWBa8K4lmKF72U1xMXHomUt5Uwqe5wo3bPM/s1600/DSCN2818.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7lIM-fSZbezNbhAfovlTeZZHViHPXUgv9cWdQVPK4vyBP43t9QyZliHVFruIXr1dpiikzFd-kVsCB5HYi5PzvZej1xJsSO8PvY0L2kg1GfWBa8K4lmKF72U1xMXHomUt5Uwqe5wo3bPM/s320/DSCN2818.JPG" height="238" width="320" /></a></div>
I began by cutting off all of the spokes and turning the hub smooth in my lathe. I then set up my boring bar in the mill to match the diameter of the hub. Then I clamped the new spokes in the vise at a 45 degree angle and used the boring bar to make the end of the spokes match the surface of the hub.<br />
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Then I drilled and tapped two 1/4-28 holes one inch apart in the spokes,and corresponding holes in the hub.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTjX4ykJB-kZQnIe7IS482zvLYI_Td9HyvusVKDV0HWYbNQTxCZnHBdOPqnsob11XdCJPQRvaU8Gy9hrFf0eHUZZB42Rr3E1Irub9Oh5FBMssNoQFkcscD8-qVLz-c1yy45piAPHGhOK4/s1600/DSCN2825.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTjX4ykJB-kZQnIe7IS482zvLYI_Td9HyvusVKDV0HWYbNQTxCZnHBdOPqnsob11XdCJPQRvaU8Gy9hrFf0eHUZZB42Rr3E1Irub9Oh5FBMssNoQFkcscD8-qVLz-c1yy45piAPHGhOK4/s400/DSCN2825.JPG" height="297" width="400" /></a></div>
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I<span style="background-color: white; color: white;">.</span>bolted the spokes in place to check the fit and measure the outside diameter of the spokes.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3zgfC7D24olCTeyXC3VFoiNo2UTmKWk0MUfYG8ub9EP63P0PTkQXlTJsRKsflFuNevakUtVdyrpYbsu1xViIJytfjp1Z-E92Yd6nJhZbGNcXH1_u51FIU6DXbTO9NvkaOWOHLjzaXekI/s1600/DSCN2823.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3zgfC7D24olCTeyXC3VFoiNo2UTmKWk0MUfYG8ub9EP63P0PTkQXlTJsRKsflFuNevakUtVdyrpYbsu1xViIJytfjp1Z-E92Yd6nJhZbGNcXH1_u51FIU6DXbTO9NvkaOWOHLjzaXekI/s320/DSCN2823.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
Next I trimmed the spokes to length, and cut a 5/16" rounded slot to match a corresponding raised area on the pulley ring. This locking feature carries the load, allowing me to use relatively small 8-32 screws to attach the ring to the spokes. The screws are underneath the belt, and go straight into the spokes. Each screw is ground down for clearance and held in place by applying J-B Weld to the threads.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig-bHgns5uZ6yy5v9fyP_qBz-yH0596pNZTLkk0cBouf6vJVfQdAdELzZC8-dgXGZGmwc7kp6mUnhhb5xZRO_Sq93V1KL4b7xXBiIkomP_BmkQm0cYdN7OXInF8rTrEmEzjLgop_inxbQ/s1600/DSCN2827.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig-bHgns5uZ6yy5v9fyP_qBz-yH0596pNZTLkk0cBouf6vJVfQdAdELzZC8-dgXGZGmwc7kp6mUnhhb5xZRO_Sq93V1KL4b7xXBiIkomP_BmkQm0cYdN7OXInF8rTrEmEzjLgop_inxbQ/s400/DSCN2827.JPG" height="298" width="400" /></a></div>
Two spokes installed. Each spoke has to be filed slightly to compensate for irregularities in the ring casting. After all spokes are fitted, I plan to bolt everything together while applying J-B Weld to the joints and screws. This should enhance the rigidity and help it better withstand the considerable vibration that the compressor, which has no flywheel to smooth it, generates. Hopefully the additional weight of the new pulley will help dampen the vibrations. By vibration I'm referring to rotational vibration, for the torque load briefly drops to near zero every 180 degrees. This causes the belt to shake a bit. Below, the partially completed pulley is receiving a Cat Scan to check for defects.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4_bffAnvFEpPA-_uQP2Bu01NaD-hkSEEgSpriNsEmpWoC7qytY0d652cxemMz-LwGPaj0bWP9qgF2mYIN-pXENpYmVcff9hn2YPC3YMfr2lk48RV3s-su63NDOQbYb5WT5cVXLkF1n7I/s1600/DSCN2828.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4_bffAnvFEpPA-_uQP2Bu01NaD-hkSEEgSpriNsEmpWoC7qytY0d652cxemMz-LwGPaj0bWP9qgF2mYIN-pXENpYmVcff9hn2YPC3YMfr2lk48RV3s-su63NDOQbYb5WT5cVXLkF1n7I/s400/DSCN2828.JPG" height="298" width="400" /></a></div>
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The completed pulley, balanced and painted:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg79NIsU4zUwbw9FdK08ODISf8nYnpai2tMg55dxJ-ST6ZMnxc97UrGcNAQD9Gu1m6jkO-ahOdKigoCp1fNCi06NjJMmFkJsNujAppaOs9k0YwkMArpRq4Gh9nOqmrZVWuklwZgjGomZNI/s1600/DSCN2834.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg79NIsU4zUwbw9FdK08ODISf8nYnpai2tMg55dxJ-ST6ZMnxc97UrGcNAQD9Gu1m6jkO-ahOdKigoCp1fNCi06NjJMmFkJsNujAppaOs9k0YwkMArpRq4Gh9nOqmrZVWuklwZgjGomZNI/s400/DSCN2834.JPG" height="298" width="400" /></a></div>
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I installed the Harbor Freight compressor on a Sears Craftsman "6 HP" compressor that was quite honestly, a piece of junk. It had a cheap compressor unit attached directly to a 2 HP motor turning at 3450 RPM. It was very loud, and the cheap cast aluminum connecting rods snapped after about a year of operation. I bought a rebuild kit that I should have returned as soon as I saw that the connecting rods were as cheap as before. Even though the kit included new cylinders and I essentially had a new compressor when the parts were installed, the connecting rods snapped after only 20 hours of use. At this point I was pretty disgusted with this compressor which carries the once-proud Craftsman name.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWr5ZUuzo8PK4LqCnDZ7b9_HZA5hcC_sbH2Sf7IK2Z8M2uIZMa0yOXRJb4tDue0XadxnxHGl2Q8AVTrOFLqrvYCUq5tyCa8km9ZT1fqaGpdZZkzN0gBpZLDjpIxQ0ruZ-aiba7ofR3u5g/s1600/DSCN2854.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWr5ZUuzo8PK4LqCnDZ7b9_HZA5hcC_sbH2Sf7IK2Z8M2uIZMa0yOXRJb4tDue0XadxnxHGl2Q8AVTrOFLqrvYCUq5tyCa8km9ZT1fqaGpdZZkzN0gBpZLDjpIxQ0ruZ-aiba7ofR3u5g/s200/DSCN2854.JPG" height="149" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY7zjSpVQsLhFqYx3ogUoi-bAYvZrlmPJqNPNgIa50OiQr6z_u0yjbXjFogEVkPKb-VjzYU2U72f3aCG73YlG2D5AmR4SNkRT6f3X8SEm7HtZwt-CshMBU8Ybgt4KXyudNT4TgzE55Ml8/s1600/DSCN2853.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY7zjSpVQsLhFqYx3ogUoi-bAYvZrlmPJqNPNgIa50OiQr6z_u0yjbXjFogEVkPKb-VjzYU2U72f3aCG73YlG2D5AmR4SNkRT6f3X8SEm7HtZwt-CshMBU8Ybgt4KXyudNT4TgzE55Ml8/s200/DSCN2853.JPG" height="149" width="200" /></a> In<span style="color: white;">.</span>addition to the cheap design, it was falsely rated as a 6 HP compressor, but had a 2 HP motor. Anticipating the questions over the discrepancy, Sears ordered motors from A.O. Smith with the HP rating left blank! See picture below:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWjhAvzG3Bihl7f3Yz5ArnAj37ZMp-z00zMJ9IiiZ4BSOlgqkAhjg71e5__Tlts9SptgyT9w7_zaUy8Y7GT0wlgdICSzvXxjvxAd3wFqaEQGMq7aGsgLcP0Z8z_iPpc07yB0-XrtLUcaw/s1600/DSCN2837.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWjhAvzG3Bihl7f3Yz5ArnAj37ZMp-z00zMJ9IiiZ4BSOlgqkAhjg71e5__Tlts9SptgyT9w7_zaUy8Y7GT0wlgdICSzvXxjvxAd3wFqaEQGMq7aGsgLcP0Z8z_iPpc07yB0-XrtLUcaw/s400/DSCN2837.JPG" height="298" width="400" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6NmC_TT-xu0UczLNRrYvvjf5jCRJH9sDs2RgaUJGc-u6QZLmVHeyczr7WVksTW4L94_a76n7DQr7MN1Lj030hjNsmzW4ZmQUQre-FdDz3hi485Bgt3rhdkT-pgQfTXY3H1_WRc_6WA2I/s1600/DSCN2840.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6NmC_TT-xu0UczLNRrYvvjf5jCRJH9sDs2RgaUJGc-u6QZLmVHeyczr7WVksTW4L94_a76n7DQr7MN1Lj030hjNsmzW4ZmQUQre-FdDz3hi485Bgt3rhdkT-pgQfTXY3H1_WRc_6WA2I/s320/DSCN2840.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a>The amperage listed is correct for a 2HP motor. Maybe 2.5HP, but nowhere near 6. I cut off part of the compressor casting from the end bell of the motor, and replaced the crankshaft with a pulley. I left the second cylinder holder intact and used it as a mount for the belt guard.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2T0od5_cqcpnx0cAP0Jsg7hieQlIzFSAsTsSVxGTQOyAO-i8LYGN4oho4tVa2GrfBcRGw9Qzu84xTlBLcgBdH0IMr7M3DNzRC-NZDpbx0QO_xEI_6qRYzwMRBGgqFKRMdTCtnkd3KebE/s1600/20140422_094716.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2T0od5_cqcpnx0cAP0Jsg7hieQlIzFSAsTsSVxGTQOyAO-i8LYGN4oho4tVa2GrfBcRGw9Qzu84xTlBLcgBdH0IMr7M3DNzRC-NZDpbx0QO_xEI_6qRYzwMRBGgqFKRMdTCtnkd3KebE/s1600/20140422_094716.jpg" height="200" width="112" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Ddp3I1_FO5ETzfZNN3oVjVVf0Vj83bCa1w8unxDuhjqoCaICwzqmH8EkRClt6h4opf4lkdacPc1fEG4b150e7wOxNpDsOekvnv3MjDtZIW5TpiS569iwZCjNmayOIT3l0BGt0J2UCzw/s1600/20140422_094721.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Ddp3I1_FO5ETzfZNN3oVjVVf0Vj83bCa1w8unxDuhjqoCaICwzqmH8EkRClt6h4opf4lkdacPc1fEG4b150e7wOxNpDsOekvnv3MjDtZIW5TpiS569iwZCjNmayOIT3l0BGt0J2UCzw/s1600/20140422_094721.jpg" height="200" width="112" /></a><br />
I cut the line to the old compressor and used flare fittings to connect a piece of copper tubing to the new compressor. <br />
Do not remove the T fitting in the tank, for it contains a compression release valve. The pump would not be able to start against the pressure in the tank if this valve is removed. The small line goes to the release valve on the pressure control switch.<br />
The HF outlet fitting was of a size I didn't have, so I re-tapped it as a pipe fitting and screwed on a half inch flare fitting.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhss3rEBD0TlReHKmA6BYd8X2ev6wW-ey06iEM5eVr0s8uaYtvDua3W7TYvo0tTlVYwXoForjKKeTqaYJHtfI17cDEXOM_yEJJHzCvgNtD7Qmp39Pd-gmNJX0gxDlP5jvhb1NtEAQoLeNs/s1600/20140422_094727.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhss3rEBD0TlReHKmA6BYd8X2ev6wW-ey06iEM5eVr0s8uaYtvDua3W7TYvo0tTlVYwXoForjKKeTqaYJHtfI17cDEXOM_yEJJHzCvgNtD7Qmp39Pd-gmNJX0gxDlP5jvhb1NtEAQoLeNs/s1600/20140422_094727.jpg" height="320" width="180" /></a><br />
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Even though the Harbor Freight pulley failed, overall the HF compressor is far superior to the Craftsman one. It's oil bath design and cast iron cylinder block should last a long time. Running at only 1000 RPM, it is far quieter than the Craftsman's 3450. One of the reasons I now find myself at Harbor Freight shopping for tools more often than at Sears.<br />
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Update: My repaired pulley has now been in use for over two years, and is holding up well, with no signs of fatigue or loosening. However, the compressor blew both the head gasket and exhaust manifold gasket. I made a new head gasket out of cork, and it is working well. If you have one of these compressors, be sure to check the head bolt torque periodically. The exhaust manifold has one very thin area in the gasket that blows easily. I milled a rectangular groove on the manifold mating surface and put a copper wire ring in the groove. This, plus a new gasket solved the problem.<br />
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Meanwhile, Harbor Freight has replaced this model compressor with a new and better made model. The pulley is now cast iron. But the price went up from the $99 I paid on sale to $149 sale price for the new one.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7412846647818539522.post-77188730341844263742011-11-27T16:07:00.001-08:002013-04-23T06:45:24.102-07:00RapMan 3D Printer Modifications<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXtCJ2K6GJe2jo5OUsPiRXmANUC_MOCRK0dU9Zya8xq1A-g8flwCQxvZsLEx90cpRMLHvePIWKHcQq0MezTwCEZEJbucTrmmlP88zfBFRoXQvTWIbCIoJnhEdKC2lirvzcclWIP6qaktk/s1600/RapMan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXtCJ2K6GJe2jo5OUsPiRXmANUC_MOCRK0dU9Zya8xq1A-g8flwCQxvZsLEx90cpRMLHvePIWKHcQq0MezTwCEZEJbucTrmmlP88zfBFRoXQvTWIbCIoJnhEdKC2lirvzcclWIP6qaktk/s400/RapMan.jpg" width="330" /></a>I purchased a RapMan 3D printer from Bits From Bytes because it is, as BFB claims, a very cost effective 3D printer. However, once I had it, I couldn't resist redesigning it. I began by replacing the plastic corner pieces with heavy duty aluminum ones, and didn't stop until I redesigned nearly everything.<br />
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The end result bears only a passing resemblance to the original RapMan.</div>
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I started by replacing the corner pieces, which consisted of 3 or 4 pieces of polycarbonate and about a dozen M2 screws, with single solid blocks of 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" aluminum. Then I remembered I had several feet of aluminum C channel, 1/2" outside and 1/4" inside. This I decided would make great channels to hold side panels to replace the original X braces. The result was this foundation for my new machine:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPCRbP844G5-fwIJyQH4Kk_LNii1EPH2dwgFxNuIFEToVNqg5CSe-RY18UviqBx1pFVeSo4HTU7pMMrtHbXNDoiktzq9DSzvf8YDLobxw7vcgr5MXe4rJyA6FeqxWxMHw7RbQFeePudS0/s1600/dscn2579.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPCRbP844G5-fwIJyQH4Kk_LNii1EPH2dwgFxNuIFEToVNqg5CSe-RY18UviqBx1pFVeSo4HTU7pMMrtHbXNDoiktzq9DSzvf8YDLobxw7vcgr5MXe4rJyA6FeqxWxMHw7RbQFeePudS0/s320/dscn2579.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Wherever possible, I tightened the tolerances in my replacement parts. The bearings now rest in bored holes which hold them in rigid alignment, while the round stock from the original RapMan is tightly pressed into holes in the corner blocks. The C channel is also pressed into slots, and locked with screws. The entire foundation is very stiff and square. A 1/4" aluminum plate serves as the motor mount.</div>
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Here is a side by side comparison of my aluminum corner assembly vs. the plastic RapMan corner. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkMHunzBgC-OlB4TQX_RFUcL-kd8HMV-AJIEmmZEnKjS_U_h8iTSVwiz8_xiz5a6bqfXirjPlrs3gV24MGWZu_-pcOID29CiMit2vmNz1CHh_0qlEGAoNJ5PcWtFjZN5AtAXjd6K7UlcI/s1600/DSCN2621.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkMHunzBgC-OlB4TQX_RFUcL-kd8HMV-AJIEmmZEnKjS_U_h8iTSVwiz8_xiz5a6bqfXirjPlrs3gV24MGWZu_-pcOID29CiMit2vmNz1CHh_0qlEGAoNJ5PcWtFjZN5AtAXjd6K7UlcI/s320/DSCN2621.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The aluminum assembly is comprised of two pieces held together by a milled slot and a single 1/4-28 bolt, while the original consists of 5 pieces of polycarbonate, 12 screws with nuts, and a short piece of 8mm rod.</div>
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What must be remembered here is that my design is not economical to manufacture and sell, and that the RapMan design does work OK. The point I'd like to make is that it is possible to take the affordable RapMan and turn it into the equivalent of a much more expensive machine.</div>
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Below: I replaced the idler pulleys made from a ball bearing-and-washer sandwich with a lathe turned pulley riding on an 8mm bearing.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvvANOMrTXGEYpv3ZkiKTU9P4ZgvYnn7L2SW7vDmEd5BTdC0le6jGAURdEWOy3nqJh6Shnx87VUepONUJzb2C2bbpdmzJ8kjX6ZYisWTur_iK6zMyYxCGjqSXn6GD4-oi70jk7O5T5K4g/s1600/dscn2620.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvvANOMrTXGEYpv3ZkiKTU9P4ZgvYnn7L2SW7vDmEd5BTdC0le6jGAURdEWOy3nqJh6Shnx87VUepONUJzb2C2bbpdmzJ8kjX6ZYisWTur_iK6zMyYxCGjqSXn6GD4-oi70jk7O5T5K4g/s320/dscn2620.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The jack-screws are made from common hardware store threaded rods and nuts, with laser cut polycarbonate toothed pulleys sandwiched between washers. Everything is a sloppy fit, but I'm not complaining, for using common hardware enabled BFB to keep the cost low. I found the holes in the toothed pulleys to be about .005" over-sized, or about the thickness of a Nine Lives steel cat food can.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSK5DIAlwJzxC0XaMThXcSi0BR2cUnbGUYiOQbqL5yLRLfcEkswEYTYHxm6dmBFHqVFQsyjhf9GyldUPz6GFivxHMeHNt5tDaTb6Rg9QKVpaGDpTLsQ8dMnVMJDkdAGWMxR6L1khCTfVM/s1600/DSCN2608.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSK5DIAlwJzxC0XaMThXcSi0BR2cUnbGUYiOQbqL5yLRLfcEkswEYTYHxm6dmBFHqVFQsyjhf9GyldUPz6GFivxHMeHNt5tDaTb6Rg9QKVpaGDpTLsQ8dMnVMJDkdAGWMxR6L1khCTfVM/s320/DSCN2608.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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This solved two problems: The sloppy fit, and the fact that friction by squeezing the pulley between two nuts was the only thing that locked the pulley to the shaft, for there is no key. The cat food can made the pulley a tight fit on the shaft, enough to turn the shaft even if the nuts are loose. At right is a picture of the jack-screw and pulleys, along with a strip from the can.</div>
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The original assembly is the one the left. It has 2 small washers for spacing, then two large washers to form the sides of the pulley. While the symmetrical appearance looks good, the resulting pulley is too wide. I settled on the right hand version, which is asymmetrical in appearance, but the correct width for the belt.</div>
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I felt the motor pulley deserved special consideration, and made
a pair of lathe turned discs to replace the washers. The assembly is held together with the
original screws, and clamps to the shaft as before. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhegAhLeV3lyexKM3KwdRRX8l95IIkXJEglxKTNUc3BXxiHmF5BNydH7WtGpxcQDNK0292dHy8Z6fAIuSpAIY-im3y_SenjoltBpKeafkx4qlsDLc-lw0poM2IprZyxT6vC1nS6lWFXW8w/s1600/DSCN2915.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhegAhLeV3lyexKM3KwdRRX8l95IIkXJEglxKTNUc3BXxiHmF5BNydH7WtGpxcQDNK0292dHy8Z6fAIuSpAIY-im3y_SenjoltBpKeafkx4qlsDLc-lw0poM2IprZyxT6vC1nS6lWFXW8w/s320/DSCN2915.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1Mvqgnb8esnXDP54TNf6u8a0WrBD1cv5-G7ZwzDquychR9tOqTvSdIJe_RJjdU29RTkAGLbrzcnJrpAs4Kkpe2XdxoGsFHHXUlsUoOpVTNcwB1IZ50qzth17DWlxN3lzNn-3rsfh7Ou0/s1600/DSCN2714.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1Mvqgnb8esnXDP54TNf6u8a0WrBD1cv5-G7ZwzDquychR9tOqTvSdIJe_RJjdU29RTkAGLbrzcnJrpAs4Kkpe2XdxoGsFHHXUlsUoOpVTNcwB1IZ50qzth17DWlxN3lzNn-3rsfh7Ou0/s200/DSCN2714.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
The RapMan merely pinches the ends of the Y axis belts, which can shift over time. I made clamps with slots that match the teeth on the belts for a more positive grip.<br />
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Then I decided that the nut assemblies which support the table were too flimsy for my requirements, so they were the next polycarbonate pieces to go. Here is a picture of my aluminum replacements.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIFYPi0e6nE3CWw8kXVxjYtaIrwGRWdIPnzG_Z4XvC5Pj9YPkIxPncidD_g8QdtujwhgbPvJPvjWG9Y2iYmrFHEBvtC4QF8KplSE4u7qYYCZm4f2PHmUVHQuWUvdIy7HWfgB4UktFmgoY/s1600/DSCN2611.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIFYPi0e6nE3CWw8kXVxjYtaIrwGRWdIPnzG_Z4XvC5Pj9YPkIxPncidD_g8QdtujwhgbPvJPvjWG9Y2iYmrFHEBvtC4QF8KplSE4u7qYYCZm4f2PHmUVHQuWUvdIy7HWfgB4UktFmgoY/s320/DSCN2611.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I retained the basic design, right down to the hex shaped hole for the nut. However, I changed from the two double guides like the original shown here, to four single guides, one at each corner. The double guides help prevent binding on the more flexible original design, but my rigid aluminum design does not require them. The slots that form the inverted "V" in the bottom of my guide are clearance slots for aluminum "C" channel which now frames the table, stiffening it considerably.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhueelfuh_91u-s5ZW82ktnXrXGW01-j6ll_eZOhOKNgVTllaNCdsfXIyetI3HHicHQHnGFId_zT7xD72z2Wqk0mFjqVL-k7-2IE2zfrNB8r19UDZzKSqSi09UNIENvV0-zmM5BpwJeejk/s1600/DSCN2618.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhueelfuh_91u-s5ZW82ktnXrXGW01-j6ll_eZOhOKNgVTllaNCdsfXIyetI3HHicHQHnGFId_zT7xD72z2Wqk0mFjqVL-k7-2IE2zfrNB8r19UDZzKSqSi09UNIENvV0-zmM5BpwJeejk/s400/DSCN2618.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The<span style="background-color: white; color: white;">_</span>completed table and "Z" axis assembly is sturdy and powerful. Here it is lifting 4 gallons of antifreeze, which is nearly 30 pounds. Mechanically, it could handle more, but the stepper motor stalled at higher weights.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcyGARD60SNr9z6Q2xOT5oRvOuWNefzBrCDZcOBgr1YqyYnWx9amKrER2wpGrrPqItsqFRyOJvhg6ojVwPEr6ZC_Hk9zRZgmIvWrVAYX6FuvwMx7JL9RyREt-kZbwkpEQOAS4yutJxWzE/s1600/DSCN3489.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcyGARD60SNr9z6Q2xOT5oRvOuWNefzBrCDZcOBgr1YqyYnWx9amKrER2wpGrrPqItsqFRyOJvhg6ojVwPEr6ZC_Hk9zRZgmIvWrVAYX6FuvwMx7JL9RyREt-kZbwkpEQOAS4yutJxWzE/s320/DSCN3489.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
The completed frame is sturdy, and initially seemed rigid enough. However, when I tried printing at higher speeds, the frame shook a bit. Also, I had a misalignment of about .005 inches in the frame from one side to the other. Adding diagonal braces solved both problems. </div>
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Also visible in the first picture is another improvement, a case for the electronics. As another cost-shaving idea, the electronics come with only a top panel, while the sides and back are exposed. This does not present a hazard to the operator, but it does make the electronics vulnerable. In addition, there is no strain relief for the wires.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEKqMLDFe_SIv1zPAR_U4UKFW71Gv2-c_iBqVU238INar9SFkrzjLtjF2CHBDbTHTUssnzPkOArutI6Lz60RUacpqEHR7nwS77gQGFG5ulRa-A2cQMatj_b-TQN0jjo3AK0lcYMiJFaS4/s1600/DSCN2599.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEKqMLDFe_SIv1zPAR_U4UKFW71Gv2-c_iBqVU238INar9SFkrzjLtjF2CHBDbTHTUssnzPkOArutI6Lz60RUacpqEHR7nwS77gQGFG5ulRa-A2cQMatj_b-TQN0jjo3AK0lcYMiJFaS4/s320/DSCN2599.JPG" width="320" /></a>Here is a rear view. The wires go through the holes in the board, and that is it. </div>
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I fabricated a case from the metal case of an old VCR. VCR's are a great source of a variety of parts. I wished to keep the original RapMan electronics assembly as original as possible, but I did make 2 modifications. First I countersunk the screws in the top cover for a nicer appearance, and then I milled a relief around the perimeter so the cover would fit flush with the surface of my case. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAAHQdMPCs1L3G704Khljf21-bMa1NKJx7ntdAS4y2mAGNsMMuR7XdN0iHx5fmJVq22u7JdYiHKI9J8Rb-F7u2ZYeMtQjwnso2iH6mh6bLCt-qgLVpzu1c84qFHBhB1gg7jw9ezqxuLYY/s1600/DSCN2602.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAAHQdMPCs1L3G704Khljf21-bMa1NKJx7ntdAS4y2mAGNsMMuR7XdN0iHx5fmJVq22u7JdYiHKI9J8Rb-F7u2ZYeMtQjwnso2iH6mh6bLCt-qgLVpzu1c84qFHBhB1gg7jw9ezqxuLYY/s320/DSCN2602.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The electronics slide in from the side, and are retained by polycarbonate pieces which lock everything tightly in place. The cable protectors are twisted into threaded holes in the polycarbonate and will not pull loose.</div>
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The picture below shows how the side pieces support the electronics cover and circuit board. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcrsd5sYY-L9XKD1_nj1iP894D9MFq6spCAprtzF4u6V0rhXktvOBSJ4zQSvJIguZS_7M0U4AiWSPX3pk-sjHE8LjdQVR81i7qQLjh-ZuMEbroZi7bCagrZI_jsjqYY-VDDm8lB5JpnQU/s1600/DSCN2603.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcrsd5sYY-L9XKD1_nj1iP894D9MFq6spCAprtzF4u6V0rhXktvOBSJ4zQSvJIguZS_7M0U4AiWSPX3pk-sjHE8LjdQVR81i7qQLjh-ZuMEbroZi7bCagrZI_jsjqYY-VDDm8lB5JpnQU/s320/DSCN2603.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Below, a close up of the assembled controls. The side panels are .10" steel, and the whole thing feels very substantial. There is plenty of room for air circulation underneath.</div>
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The screw terminal "D" connector will be replaced with a conventional one, further improving the appearance.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvJaj4-w-YR4HHmfJwGe5GpAAWeesUjaRHdVDsFMaTOIFYvAbDLDMwCTxGbFf0Km3YRwSWdAuVwrbcC57qaKR2bQmrV6HHJ43hswepbc8_sad3WoNiMBiDaw04w1y_NIwkeGTHm9zVsTk/s1600/DSCN2606.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvJaj4-w-YR4HHmfJwGe5GpAAWeesUjaRHdVDsFMaTOIFYvAbDLDMwCTxGbFf0Km3YRwSWdAuVwrbcC57qaKR2bQmrV6HHJ43hswepbc8_sad3WoNiMBiDaw04w1y_NIwkeGTHm9zVsTk/s400/DSCN2606.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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With all of my experimenting, I have now fried two stepper motor driver chips. I repaired the board, but some of my repairs are a little unusual. For more on that, click<a href="http://robertsprojects.blogspot.com/2012/03/repairing-rapman-controller.html" target="_blank"><b> here</b></a><br />
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More to come! After going this far, I've decided to redesign the carriage the print head rides on. There will be very little polycarbonate left, and the the machine will gain a few more pounds in weight. It will likely tip the scales at around 60 pounds when complete.</div>
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The print head development took a while, for I developed an entirely new design.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirRYL3ivOmu0hyphenhyphen9dfG0dq1gNYUoW8PaYflVT4LlAZTeopU5T-5Gg3oyyRug1Zcs7Q0tzut1FMadnv2ngtuz5dLU2P0pQJq_gwPUpnzSETggMzGczsI_4S39s-Ckwb2aS3-ydabH3Ji9jE/s1600/Bobs+vs+RapMan.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirRYL3ivOmu0hyphenhyphen9dfG0dq1gNYUoW8PaYflVT4LlAZTeopU5T-5Gg3oyyRug1Zcs7Q0tzut1FMadnv2ngtuz5dLU2P0pQJq_gwPUpnzSETggMzGczsI_4S39s-Ckwb2aS3-ydabH3Ji9jE/s400/Bobs+vs+RapMan.JPG" width="243" /></a></div>
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The Rap Man printer head works OK, but is excessively large in size,
and is complicated, with the body made from 10 pieces of laser cut Plexiglas. The head is over-sized because the motor , feed screw, gears
and bearings are mounted at an angle while the raw material being fed to the
printer is vertical. BFB did this to move the drive gear and bearings out of the
way of the path of the raw material.</div>
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In the more expensive BFB3000,
they made the head smaller by mounting the drive gear vertical and bending the
raw material. This also works OK, but is
a nuisance to reload, as one has to snake the material through the curved path. </div>
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My idea was to have the best of both worlds by positioning
everything vertical. This would make the
head small, and reloading simple. But,
of course that meant the bearings would be in the way. The solution here was to move the bearings
out of the way. But how to do it? Instead of having the drive screw go through
the center of the bearings, as is normally done, I put the drive screw on the
outside of the bearings. Now, instead of the center of the bearing rotating
while the outside is stationary, the outside rotates, and the inside is
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This required two bearings at each end. The feed screw now rides in the valley
between the two bearings, leaving the top of the feed screw unobstructed,
creating a straight path for the raw material. </div>
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Below is a picture of my feed mechanism.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip9vDo3mCy5f4Or7_Jenx3RtQd6F2vBRbvkL3PRb87-ducqxrAk8n1rhbUaqsmbAnHJUU5IYGYfE-NYDY4YBeuRKtOnkr1QbqTFxsU6hYaHCM_E74GLVx_HZO8EdfYknmz4QxbrVsCigg/s1600/DSCN2717.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip9vDo3mCy5f4Or7_Jenx3RtQd6F2vBRbvkL3PRb87-ducqxrAk8n1rhbUaqsmbAnHJUU5IYGYfE-NYDY4YBeuRKtOnkr1QbqTFxsU6hYaHCM_E74GLVx_HZO8EdfYknmz4QxbrVsCigg/s400/DSCN2717.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Very compact, and a much more attractive design than the original RapMan
head.</div>
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Now that the material feed
design was complete, it was time to develop a mounting system. Primary
requirements were ease of removal, and a vers<span style="font-size: small;">atile design which would permit me
to experiment with a variety of print head designs, including the </span>ability to swap
the 3D print heads with a mechanical or laser engraver head, or perhaps even a pottery extruding head.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimQ6UriQK7QVLVmOFwCW9LqTutZxbwTyNGHv80Rjudbq73F0orl27tBLvV3-7tFIGtivMueg0p4RK9CLngKEtwnhp8eHEKPof306XiwsD34_byTjAQR0HzihQItJyp_iqgS-WA_kG74nA/s1600/dscn2741.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimQ6UriQK7QVLVmOFwCW9LqTutZxbwTyNGHv80Rjudbq73F0orl27tBLvV3-7tFIGtivMueg0p4RK9CLngKEtwnhp8eHEKPof306XiwsD34_byTjAQR0HzihQItJyp_iqgS-WA_kG74nA/s400/dscn2741.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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I settled on a dovetail style mount, which eliminated the need for
threaded holes in the carriage, and bolts to attach the heads. A single screw on each print head expands the
dovetails, clamping them in position quickly and securely.</div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">The carriage is machined from a solid block of 1
inch thick aluminum. This allowed me to
make a very low profile carriage whose top surface is just 2 mm above the
linear bearings. This helps to reduce
the overall height of the machine. Combined with the low profile print heads,
my machine is about 4 inches lower than the RapMan. My carriage is also smaller in both the X and
Y dimensions, resulting in more x and Y travel than the RapMan
carriage. </span></span>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">One
design problem I struggled with was how to get power to the extruders in a way
that looked tidy and also gave me the versatility to experiment with different
styles of heads. I rummaged through my
collection of old Apple hardware and found a 50 conductor ribbon cable from a
hard drive. It was an ideal length, and
I was able to cut the connectors off the hard drive and motherboard.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicl3qzLm2s-oVtucZry8qxRxG_jCOlofzB_zt6VJaUjgqYeVZpkW09AF04lZNMadW7JpNieNhPV-nqLsLQfeWQehtviNC94w8Z75_kmPuhd7brt3y3lx4UxR6LUPau6sU_dW6pCBO1vzs/s1600/DSCN2921.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicl3qzLm2s-oVtucZry8qxRxG_jCOlofzB_zt6VJaUjgqYeVZpkW09AF04lZNMadW7JpNieNhPV-nqLsLQfeWQehtviNC94w8Z75_kmPuhd7brt3y3lx4UxR6LUPau6sU_dW6pCBO1vzs/s320/DSCN2921.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I cut one of the connectors up into several small ones, and
made individual plugs for each motor and extruder. This way I can easily remove them separately,
or swap their positions for troubleshooting.
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Unlike the RapMan, which
required removing several screws and wires, I can remove each head
in under a minute by loosening only a single screw.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYzwoogEG_LAGjXol1_qgjcuXzPPdaE1oCH4THKt97mRu8F4lshByOpufEtV4cSrlZPtIdHlRi8VPO3L_LgNRsp4jm5xJwhsuAsTwaH9CO3MKWUvCtjMgvx4k3jlpU1Ck1VXYFY2ojJxo/s1600/DSCN2922.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYzwoogEG_LAGjXol1_qgjcuXzPPdaE1oCH4THKt97mRu8F4lshByOpufEtV4cSrlZPtIdHlRi8VPO3L_LgNRsp4jm5xJwhsuAsTwaH9CO3MKWUvCtjMgvx4k3jlpU1Ck1VXYFY2ojJxo/s320/DSCN2922.JPG" width="239" /></a>Since ribbon cable has light gauge wires intended for
carrying signals, and not large amounts of power, I used 3 wires in parallel
for each extruder and stepper motor.
This arrangement works well, giving me the flexibility of a ribbon
cable, and the current carrying capacity of a thicker, and stiffer, wire. Out
of the 50 conductors available in the ribbon, I used 46.</div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">Finally, I wanted a convenient means to hold several spools of material without taking up valuable table space. I mounted the spools on top of the machine, where they are readily accessible. A picture of the completed machine is below. The whole thing fits nicely on a<span style="font-size: small;"> small 2 foot x 2 foot </span> table.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTPZmxaRwp_srPwsZx8T-xXDzjnJajWp2ywjsmZNnq6vCKoA3TMnfdaAVkYtuW9YrTGaclna7qeJ2yrGTPjeWVA7zhRlj1o-MmQVrDwj4jKayivdlE1cvfd7iNCG43WKpJpKptKldTKFE/s1600/DSCN3476.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTPZmxaRwp_srPwsZx8T-xXDzjnJajWp2ywjsmZNnq6vCKoA3TMnfdaAVkYtuW9YrTGaclna7qeJ2yrGTPjeWVA7zhRlj1o-MmQVrDwj4jKayivdlE1cvfd7iNCG43WKpJpKptKldTKFE/s640/DSCN3476.JPG" width="476" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"> I ran the "Duck" test program provided by BFB, and made some very nice ducks in a variety of colors. The surface finish is quite good, and I'm impressed with what can be done without using support structures. These ducks are ABS, but I've also made them in PLA.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQrmaKL2NBnamDGvnoiAZGtqusWoJadO3SsSyDxlqZ3PThEUd4wqQjwMLNe3ABylo2n96OgZXdz226ceRCksxn60w5wbiafZpbcbFHh3gOM4v8wn5Se1yR4rERx6DlH-lCLw0-AeFQxXI/s1600/DSCN2955.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQrmaKL2NBnamDGvnoiAZGtqusWoJadO3SsSyDxlqZ3PThEUd4wqQjwMLNe3ABylo2n96OgZXdz226ceRCksxn60w5wbiafZpbcbFHh3gOM4v8wn5Se1yR4rERx6DlH-lCLw0-AeFQxXI/s400/DSCN2955.JPG" width="400" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwRkGz0mRqZ7gKXdKWPTQEfuWIVMEU01LKkzMeaOX3nEAOZHdeP9dZoNMVaeLcpRCNxw_OOB0HZ89RSc3lja5bx_e3nVzgvqMAmH9RKYCfUBRJo7s5tgpCa1HLXVDizbNebVzhSO70op4/s1600/DSCN2952.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwRkGz0mRqZ7gKXdKWPTQEfuWIVMEU01LKkzMeaOX3nEAOZHdeP9dZoNMVaeLcpRCNxw_OOB0HZ89RSc3lja5bx_e3nVzgvqMAmH9RKYCfUBRJo7s5tgpCa1HLXVDizbNebVzhSO70op4/s400/DSCN2952.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"> I modified the duck file to make two color ducks as a test of the second extruder head:</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzshlTjUJ90Oi7dF0B8Ua-UMWztFUJnZV-O23fKIqKvUvnQeFdjmjeiuOuR1ntX_vLcwg1Wda70jRIGViW76_MuIixf94v-uPNHyqJrCV3We77FQZEimHhmOJIlv1BHm7f9AyqY8EVHUA/s1600/Two+Color+Duck.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzshlTjUJ90Oi7dF0B8Ua-UMWztFUJnZV-O23fKIqKvUvnQeFdjmjeiuOuR1ntX_vLcwg1Wda70jRIGViW76_MuIixf94v-uPNHyqJrCV3We77FQZEimHhmOJIlv1BHm7f9AyqY8EVHUA/s400/Two+Color+Duck.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">After making a whole
flock of ducks and other things, I realized that there is still room for
improvement. One thing I discovered is that PLA stays soft for a
longer time than ABS. This made it difficult to make small parts
because the material was too rubbery and unstable when the extruder
returned for a second pass. I solved this by adding a second fan on
the rear of my carriage. Below are pictures of the brackets, and how
they mount on the carriage.</span></span><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj14gbAJdfLqECZRuCA52WP5QXjYUDhoM85GnIqNIW-EfxYEihF5o1ShSKfYH9c6vm78a1f3f94hVsftg9wqIxJMOjWqbPqdcRraKC2VjgkJh6DoPe9kkweDtu5dxmUniMJ9-cQmpwNotg/s1600/DSCN2987.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj14gbAJdfLqECZRuCA52WP5QXjYUDhoM85GnIqNIW-EfxYEihF5o1ShSKfYH9c6vm78a1f3f94hVsftg9wqIxJMOjWqbPqdcRraKC2VjgkJh6DoPe9kkweDtu5dxmUniMJ9-cQmpwNotg/s320/DSCN2987.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwjLCNZ1NPETiIevynkrUL3sdIFMvz6fAtrLM5GH__Gz1j0aLS80iqdV-MHD5_I0c9eNs6B8Pj5GQyrzdYG70ytb_97k-SvWWrEr5yHakK_SAsgjbzmvrWAE75uvrEgkbHKbR4wHl4wps/s1600/DSCN2989.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwjLCNZ1NPETiIevynkrUL3sdIFMvz6fAtrLM5GH__Gz1j0aLS80iqdV-MHD5_I0c9eNs6B8Pj5GQyrzdYG70ytb_97k-SvWWrEr5yHakK_SAsgjbzmvrWAE75uvrEgkbHKbR4wHl4wps/s320/DSCN2989.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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This solved one problem , but created another. The RapMan extruders always struggled to reach maximum temperature, and now with the increased airflow, and the addition of a heat sink on the inlet side, they really struggled. It didn't help that BFB did not insulate them well, or used 3 stainless steel standoffs to mount them. I turned the center portion of the standoffs down in my lathe to about 2.6mm to reduce the heat transfer. As the cross sectional area of the standoff is now less than half the original, the heat transfer should also be reduced. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUvNFTMuP9A0Y4dawIdEpKP43Bh8mO3ymokjFyTfjGNkHFzf5g-FhBDXKrD8GrT3k_YB7guo7VFkARkIe9JjKallNg9YO64KTtIwbtm26rqoOa2ZtFuE_CIyNhGAyic3V_1rVu6vRyAmw/s1600/DSCN2975.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUvNFTMuP9A0Y4dawIdEpKP43Bh8mO3ymokjFyTfjGNkHFzf5g-FhBDXKrD8GrT3k_YB7guo7VFkARkIe9JjKallNg9YO64KTtIwbtm26rqoOa2ZtFuE_CIyNhGAyic3V_1rVu6vRyAmw/s320/DSCN2975.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
I added additional high temperature RTV to the exposed back of the extruder, and covered the slimmed down standoffs. It did not make a huge improvement, but it was enough to allow the heads to maintain 260 degrees.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn2jPnweryojP8Hw5bUfD5jg9gTHIDeLRHunCHkmetS067d8bkgxs6Ur_LW_-tvy-5W2wQ104niFKL0OVFI7MlaJiBT3ffB7a6BFF7_sl_obF_jlJovxcm64J3y6ffoq0ocwjBdXV7QN4/s1600/DSCN2988.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn2jPnweryojP8Hw5bUfD5jg9gTHIDeLRHunCHkmetS067d8bkgxs6Ur_LW_-tvy-5W2wQ104niFKL0OVFI7MlaJiBT3ffB7a6BFF7_sl_obF_jlJovxcm64J3y6ffoq0ocwjBdXV7QN4/s400/DSCN2988.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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I ran these extruders for many hours, and they generally worked well, but would occasionally lose their grip on the filament. Increasing the pressure on the filament against the screw helped, but then the motor would occasionally stall. I realized that the blunt machine screw style threads took considerable pressure to bite into the filament, so I designed a much sharper tooth profile. Below is a drawing representing the original profile and my design.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie_Yvbr9T5sMGJbqXCkqFIJiG55qLnv6vOvbD2gihuY9K3aadcjZTrIqkI9NxnnVzJZJv1uva-Em05hNBbiUKsA9o3HwXe3i5SkNIgwJs3cKZcUndYNC6BvmmhSwrxALyeS7PxlRVSVis/s1600/Extruder+Drive+Design.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="163" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie_Yvbr9T5sMGJbqXCkqFIJiG55qLnv6vOvbD2gihuY9K3aadcjZTrIqkI9NxnnVzJZJv1uva-Em05hNBbiUKsA9o3HwXe3i5SkNIgwJs3cKZcUndYNC6BvmmhSwrxALyeS7PxlRVSVis/s200/Extruder+Drive+Design.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAH_b7nkrvx4SorKJ6fTBpxYl2xVfgriQyPXq3-1NiVhOPiAMO0dlNMj8MJYvnWhxp3DVEhrTKKO_7ekSz95nqQPC9QzJs_EvWcG6DyNazCcUFqqiCCRTwDE56FhHVyffLA6vgt3tMAQU/s1600/DSCN3382.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAH_b7nkrvx4SorKJ6fTBpxYl2xVfgriQyPXq3-1NiVhOPiAMO0dlNMj8MJYvnWhxp3DVEhrTKKO_7ekSz95nqQPC9QzJs_EvWcG6DyNazCcUFqqiCCRTwDE56FhHVyffLA6vgt3tMAQU/s320/DSCN3382.JPG" width="320" /></a>I made these screws from water hardening drill rod, which I hardened after machining. The new screws are working well so far, and require much less pressure to maintain a grip on the filament. It remains to be seen whether the hardened drill rod maintains a sharp edge. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd2hwLr0BPHace42nZ1uCvgOb8kDMS7k5wrbjkjd_A4ZYJR9qSI_fkc9fNLgCs_ASEn8NkuGJxSlmjXMzSd-whmltiDhdG3PaquxxLMnDPSaf9FBG2YNAfU59tzD9z58tP5ioZNXLIYWc/s1600/DSCN3491.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd2hwLr0BPHace42nZ1uCvgOb8kDMS7k5wrbjkjd_A4ZYJR9qSI_fkc9fNLgCs_ASEn8NkuGJxSlmjXMzSd-whmltiDhdG3PaquxxLMnDPSaf9FBG2YNAfU59tzD9z58tP5ioZNXLIYWc/s320/DSCN3491.JPG" width="320" /></a>Another improvement was made to the material feed arrangement. Feeding from overhead quickly proved to be less than ideal, so I added a pair of turning pulleys to bring the material in from behind. The top pulley removes quickly without tools. With room for 6 materials overhead, material changing is far easier than most other machines I've seen. <br />
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With the machine now running well, I decided to tackle the issue of ABS shrinkage and build a heated bed. Since my existing bed was made from 1/8 inch aluminum, I was off to a good start. I experimented with a variety of heaters and decided that 300 watts was about right. The heating elements were removed from food warming trays which had a nice length of Nichrome wire insulated with fiberglass. I would not recommend going beyond 300 watts, for if your temperature controller sticks on, the bed would get extremely hot. <br />
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I had a old British made CAL 5000 temperature controller in my junk box, so I built an enclosure and used that. It uses a type J thermocouple. The heated bed was a huge improvement when printing in ABS. It also helps when using PLA as a raft material, for it keeps the PLA slightly soft and sticky. <br />
Next problem. I was not satisfied with Kapton as a bed surface, and I heard of someone using a stone surface, so I decided to give it a try. I tried a marble tile and that has worked well so far. I'm using the rough back side of the tile as my surface. As long as the tile is warm, the PLA raft sticks well. When it cools, the PLA pops off by itself. <br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Finally, here is my copy of <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12208" target="_blank">Emmett's Heart Gears</a>, a popular download from the <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/" target="_blank">Thingiverse</a> site:</span><br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7412846647818539522.post-64245485945193410842011-07-10T20:28:00.000-07:002014-02-24T16:40:16.502-08:00John Deere 300 / 316 Mower Deck RebuildWhile my John Deere 316 and overhauled mule hitch are now in fine shape, the 46" mower deck is not. Some of the mower bearings began to fail, and I decided to replace them all. When I removed the deck and began disassembly, I discovered that the deck was badly rusted. Now the bearing job turned into a major overhaul. I removed the loose rust and and sprayed the badly pitted surface with a rust converter, then painted it. While the paint adhered well, I did not like the pitted surface, which looked like it would be difficult to keep clean. So, I filled the pits with auto body putty and re-sanded the whole thing. These two pictures were taken before I filled the pits.<br />
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Unfortunately, some of the worst rust damage was in the vicinity of the front roller and mule hitch attachment points. Not surprising, since this area quickly fills with wet grass. I cannot afford to have this area rust anymore, and decided to make a reinforcing patch which eliminates the corner and protects the critical areas from grass accumulation and hopefully, more rust. The blade has about an inch clearance, which should be enough while preventing grass buildup.<br />
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The patch is 0.10" steel, about the same thickness as the mower deck. After cutting and bending the rough shape, it was easy to pound it into a form fitting patch. It is held by 10 5/16" bolts and is easily removable for inspection. Satisfied that I had a good solution to the rust problem, I turned my attention to the bearings. They were, not surprisingly, difficult to disassemble. The nuts on top of the pulleys can be very stubborn. I removed one with great difficulty, only to discover that I damaged the threads on the shaft. See right end of top shaft. Fortunately, it is still use-able, for replacement shafts are around $45!<br />
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Next nut I did the smart thing and cut the nut in my milling machine. Now it spun off easily, leaving undamaged threads. Replacement nuts are only $3, much cheaper than a replacement shaft! See cutout in my old nut, and notice that the new one is a vibration proof crushed nut. The old one probably was, too. That is part of the reason they are difficult to remove.<br />
Note: All nuts are standard thread.<br />
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I begin disassembly by removing the nuts at both ends, an then the snap ring that is exposed when you remove the round nut under the mower blade. I use a pipe wrench to turn the round nut, but be careful, for I believe this nut is cast iron. Whatever you do, don't hit this or the shaft ends with a hammer.<br />
See snap ring in this picture. Only the bottom bearing is held by snap rings. I leave the inner snap ring alone. No reason to remove it.<br />
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Now press on the shaft at the pulley end. If all goes well, the shaft will push through the pulley, and this bearing will pop out. Remove the pulley and press the shaft's blade end, while using a block to prevent the lower pulley from going back into it's hole. The upper bearing and shaft will now pop out the top, and the lower bearing is now free.<br />
I found every key locked solidly in place, so I didn't bother them. Instead I pressed the upper bearings down and off the bottom of the shaft.<br />
not having a hydraulic press, I pressed them off in my industrial sized Athol vise, made by the Athol Machine Co., which apparently was bought out in 1920.<br />
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Not sure how much longer Athol brand vises were sold after that, but I'm guessing mine is anywhere from 1900 to 1930. It is a very rugged vise that opens up to 8" and has an unusual handle with a dog clutch in it. Pull towards you and you can reposition the handle anywhere you wish. Unfortunately, my clutch is worn and slips, so I have it locked most of the time. For arbors to press against, I use my Harbor Freight deep impact socket set. They press against the bearing in the right places, without damage to them of the bearing<br />
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I replaced all of the hardware with new 3/8" bolts. The originals were 5/16", and the more rusted ones turned inside the square holes. That makes them very difficult to remove. Once I had them out, I realized that the holes were nearly a perfect fit for 3/8" bolts. Only a small amount of filing the square holes was necessary, along with filing a slight flat on the heads to clear the step in the casting. These bolts will never turn in the square holes, no matter how rusted they might become.<br />
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More bad news. One pulley was badly rusted and </div>
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needed to be replaced. New ones from John Deere are about $30, and used ones are, in my opinion, overpriced at over $20. As much as I like this old John Deere, I try to avoid putting more money in it than I have to. Hard to justify a $30 pulley on a 30+ year old, and rusted mower deck. Looking at the selection of pulleys at Tractor Supply, I came up with an $8 solution. I could turn down the rusted John Deere pulley in my lathe, and then attach a Weasler pulley to the John Deere hub. Weaslers are inexpensive because the hub is bought separately. But I didn't<br />
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want the hub anyway.<br />
Above right: The rusted 4 1/2" inch John Deere and the 5" Weasler. While they look very different, where the belt rides is nearly identical, and that is what matters.<br />
At left, the old John Deere with the rusted half removed in the lathe, and the new Weasler pulley. Now, simply attach them together. They fit almost perfectly, with the John Deere nestled under the rolled edge of the Weasler, which I then pounded tight over the edge of the Deere.<br />
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At right, an original John Deere, and my Weasler Deere pulley. <br />
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When something fails prematurely, like the lower bearings did - they were less than 10 years old, I analyze it and look for a fix. In this case, the round nuts, which are supposed to protect the bearings, had too much space between them and the spindle. There was about .015" - .020" of space, which let things like bits of bailing twine get wrapped around the shaft and eventually destroy the bearing seals, causing the bearings to fail. I machined the back of the nut to allow them to be closer, about .005". See the tight gap in the photo at left. Since each spindle is a little different, the nuts are no longer interchangeable, and must be returned to the spindle it was on.<br />
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The idler pulley arm has a brass bushing that is easy to miss. I didn't notice it at first under all the dirt and corrosion. It is worth the effort to remove it, clean it up and lubricate it.<br />
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Meanwhile, I continued to work on the deck. Filling some of the larger rust pits made a dramatic improvement, so I filled some more. It was really starting to look good! I repeated the process once more, re-sanding each time.<br />
I used a can of John Deere Top Sail white I had on hand as the finish coat. It is some of the nicest spray paint I've ever used, much better than the quick drying hardware store brands. The high gloss finish almost has a wet look appearance to it. <br />
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There is actually very little putty on the finished deck. I sanded until I had a surface of shiny metal and filled pits. The putty adhered well to the pits, which were treated with the rust converter.</div>
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I'll give the paint a few days to cure before assembling the mower. Unfortunately, there is no need to rush, as the heat wave has turned my fields brown.</div>
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Finally, the time has come for reassembly. First question. Will the Weasler work? It fits nicely on the left side, but the spring has to be installed carefully, for the clearance is very close, about .010". There is plenty of room to get the belt on.<br />
It was a tight fit on the right side, and rubs a little. Also, the spindle has to be loosened to replace the belt. Fortunately, I needed only one replacement pulley.<br />
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I made over-sized washers out of 0.10" steel, for the region surrounding each bolt hole was distorted into a concave shape. These should prevent that from happening again. I also epoxied them on place to prevent rust from creeping under them.<br />
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Below: A close up of the edges of the patch. A very close fit with no sharp edges to cut through the paint on the deck.<br />
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No more deep, grass accumulating corner, plenty of clearance, and easy inspection of the critical areas where the brackets are welded on.<br />
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A view of the installed deck. I still have to restore and install the covers over the pulleys. White, instead of John Deere yellow, is the finish color, because I had white paint on hand. The previous owner painted the tractor frame and mower red. Apparently, he had plenty of red paint on hand!<br />
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Visitors have come to this site for instructions on removing the deck. It is simple, no tools needed. First, put a 2x4 under the front roller to take the weight off the mule hitch. Loosen the belt adjustment knob and remove the belt. Pull the spring-loaded J hooks by the front roller towards you and rotate them clear of the mule hitch. The mule hitch is free now and may even fall off. Pull it forward and remove it from the tractor. Next pull the retaining pins out of the links which raise the deck. In this picture, the link and pin are directly over the belt where it stretches between the two outside pulleys. Finally, pull the round knob visible in the center of the picture and rotate it counterclockwise. It should rotate into a slot which keeps it in the open position. The links will likely drop free at this point. <br />
Here is a view under the deck after mowing 2 acres. Only a small amount of grass has accumulated, a big improvement. No, the blades are NOT spinning! I'm not sure why it appears like that other than it happens to fall on the dividing line between the bright sunshine in the background and the dim lighting under the mower.<br />
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The deck, with newly sharpened and balanced blades, is much quieter and smoother than before. I am pleased with the way it turned out, and believe the old Deere has many more years left in it.<br />
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Here is a link to my <a href="http://robertsprojects.blogspot.com/2011/06/john-deere-300-tractor-mule-hitch.html" target="_blank">John Deere mule hitch repair</a></div>
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and my <a href="http://robertsprojects.blogspot.com/2013/03/kohler-k341-engine-overhaul.html" target="_blank">Kohler K341 engine overhaul</a><br />
I have now added a Harbor Freight winch to the rear of the tractor. <a href="http://robertsprojects.blogspot.com/2014/02/installing-harbor-freight-winch-on-my.html">You can read about that here. </a><br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7412846647818539522.post-18071846138616403782011-06-05T20:02:00.000-07:002014-02-24T16:38:22.953-08:00John Deere 300 Tractor - Mule Hitch Overhaul, and other repairsAbout 10 years ago, I bought a 1978 John Deere 316 tractor. In reality it is a 300 series, not to be confused with the later model 316's. But for one year, 1978, John Deere renamed their 16 hp 300 series a 316. It is a hardworking tractor, and it shows, see below. The red seat is a boat seat. Much cheaper than a replacement John Deere seat, and it is comfortable. It also has the virtue of having a seat-back which folds flat. That has come in handy on numerous occasions.<br />
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Way back in 1978, it looked like this 300:<br />
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This tractor has proven to be exceptionally reliable and rugged, and has made me into a loyal John Deere fan. I find it remarkable that I can walk into my local dealer and they will have parts for my 33 year old tractor in stock. Another reason I hang onto this tractor is that it has big tractor features like hydraulic fittings for accessories and individual rear brakes. The plow has both hydraulic lift and angle pistons, and they are powerful. The plow can be lowered to the point that it lifts the front of the tractor clear off the ground. <br />
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The angling piston is equally powerful, and I've gotten out of many a jam by using the plow's hydraulics to lift and push the tractor free. Try doing that with the plow on a modern small tractor.<br />
We get plenty of snow, and the little John Deere can handle most of it. Of course there are times when it is outmatched, see below.<br />
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This is the road in front of our house. I had to give up at this point and and return home. I was trying to reach my neighbor's house, the red one on the right. I did get my driveway clear, however. But it was another day before I could actually go anywhere!<br />
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However, even a John Deere will show some wear after 33 years, and I recently discovered that the front support for the mower deck, called a mule hitch, was badly worn.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF1Hon2SfX-J_FOmqy6JEBbZetRh_Lo_uyh5mbRFPM_odP2HdRbVdfxoj9s2p4TnlrxEzp_I4pS0cCoOqN0BBSwIedoff4_HX_d3l-k5Dx-s_PKXjDWwuVaik6lzLc0NaKC5wFPjimzUw/s1600/DSCN2198.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF1Hon2SfX-J_FOmqy6JEBbZetRh_Lo_uyh5mbRFPM_odP2HdRbVdfxoj9s2p4TnlrxEzp_I4pS0cCoOqN0BBSwIedoff4_HX_d3l-k5Dx-s_PKXjDWwuVaik6lzLc0NaKC5wFPjimzUw/s320/DSCN2198.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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The mule hitch has two pulleys that turn the mower drive belt 90 degrees from vertical where it attaches to the front PTO to the horizontal pulley on the mower deck. In spite of all this twisting and turning, the design is reliable and the current belt is now 8 years old. <br />
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Years of vibration and the added stress of mowing rough pastures have taken their toll: The hollow pulley support shaft was nearly worn through, and the hole it rides in enlarged.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXxNKSa6pULBsOis8mTmVaNPpZee6hmRn3tsHrHYE67S4_3KsIOf7BigBEUKQCil75N2jpTYyyiZq5OMyPZBZ0KJCHRSnESs4RaoJqPM3su6-YhxK2tbqA9LobxuIfazgWD_NdIL8Svz8/s1600/DSCN2197.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXxNKSa6pULBsOis8mTmVaNPpZee6hmRn3tsHrHYE67S4_3KsIOf7BigBEUKQCil75N2jpTYyyiZq5OMyPZBZ0KJCHRSnESs4RaoJqPM3su6-YhxK2tbqA9LobxuIfazgWD_NdIL8Svz8/s320/DSCN2197.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtueJTblrTiWZxLN16PYDDUntQW46OajvyDRtTQfhHdCiFfxLPPANzI7nLLUbJABvcW8UaxvaQfVAV4dbM3AjM5FDLp3Q6JOAtco9qHxoYc35xFYXojsUQOzhAtzusmC8iGxkOoqLUYyU/s1600/DSCN2204.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtueJTblrTiWZxLN16PYDDUntQW46OajvyDRtTQfhHdCiFfxLPPANzI7nLLUbJABvcW8UaxvaQfVAV4dbM3AjM5FDLp3Q6JOAtco9qHxoYc35xFYXojsUQOzhAtzusmC8iGxkOoqLUYyU/s320/DSCN2204.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
I designed repair parts that create new bearing surfaces on unworn parts of the shaft, and also solve the problem of the over-sized holes. It is impossible to completely disassemble the mule hitch because the pulley arm was welded on after assembly. Therefore, I had to make one of my parts with a slot instead of a hole. It is OK however, because all of the force, and the wear, is towards the bottom of the slot. A complicated 2 piece part is unnecessary.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF0JrhcI7DtjNHIeEPuVV1s40fVXTOSOEwFXIz4WNE2JsfZmgaED1PgOj_QM7KpJupO6Tfi088Vcf93NTlWtyQjKAPVD7QiVrdDgZVXvv2-UAe4U6eHR4U-fPUxQV93Bz5mS0_RTzSIbU/s1600/DSCN2206.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF0JrhcI7DtjNHIeEPuVV1s40fVXTOSOEwFXIz4WNE2JsfZmgaED1PgOj_QM7KpJupO6Tfi088Vcf93NTlWtyQjKAPVD7QiVrdDgZVXvv2-UAe4U6eHR4U-fPUxQV93Bz5mS0_RTzSIbU/s320/DSCN2206.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
I installed my parts with 1/4"-28 high strength cap screws into holes that were tapped 90% of the way through. This made the screws extremely tight, and it is highly unlikely they will vibrate loose.<br />
That was important for I had to mill some of the heads down for clearance. They looks like rivets now, and are just as tight.<br />
Note the amount of space visible in the over-sized hole, and remember that the shaft is worn an equal amount. That added up to about 1/4" of slop, and considerable misalignment of the shaft. The other side of the hitch was worn in the opposite direction, adding to the angular misalignment of the shaft.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnb_iAMzv3S47eliJSU7nbnq75c6WQNLnAAR8mn9qSIk-aPwAHl1Zo_qEbtzUz9O6McBkpWy0gufWlERHbVe9jpiALfGuJSrhNDF19Oxn1pu294f445mBPplr7lH-ngFjNDq1JzGi1_9c/s1600/DSCN2239.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnb_iAMzv3S47eliJSU7nbnq75c6WQNLnAAR8mn9qSIk-aPwAHl1Zo_qEbtzUz9O6McBkpWy0gufWlERHbVe9jpiALfGuJSrhNDF19Oxn1pu294f445mBPplr7lH-ngFjNDq1JzGi1_9c/s400/DSCN2239.JPG" height="298" width="400" /></a></div>
The reassembled hitch. One of the screw heads that was milled down is visible to the left of the pulley shaft.<br />
Since the outer portion of the shaft moves only when adjusting the belt, it appears that vibration, and not rotational movement, is the source of the wear. That theory is backed up by the pattern seen in the close up of the shaft. Rotational movement would wear such a pattern smooth. Therefore, I made my parts with a tight fit. There is some friction, but importantly, no free play which would allow vibration to hammer the parts against each other.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFZbHKQdM_2zqy4rrw9eGESHzJhMn-rf__51jlUIDhP7FU2prK0F6ae4NzLpoRO1oD9u44fjYGOO7nH2iXhK-xUcACpBUnjflsnzrrxyY9mQMi179vDYtk7JW8gR0uApe6-G4s2h4osAk/s1600/DSCN2201.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFZbHKQdM_2zqy4rrw9eGESHzJhMn-rf__51jlUIDhP7FU2prK0F6ae4NzLpoRO1oD9u44fjYGOO7nH2iXhK-xUcACpBUnjflsnzrrxyY9mQMi179vDYtk7JW8gR0uApe6-G4s2h4osAk/s320/DSCN2201.JPG" height="238" width="320" /></a></div>
Next problem. The hole for the spring tensioner guide rod was nearly worn through! The original hole was at the right. In addition, the guide rod itself was badly worn.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-P4bMWAVP82m5UpzMVjNEeaMvOQutnzAfjk65_mYM0111WkjnFSslU3G2rnequyq4LldmZS2JO_JYg__NobGAdMaqp2Gn5mwRDqoT7NdzHiDeqrV51y7wVR8s5vR8_XWeb_796BIC3-M/s1600/DSCN2202.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-P4bMWAVP82m5UpzMVjNEeaMvOQutnzAfjk65_mYM0111WkjnFSslU3G2rnequyq4LldmZS2JO_JYg__NobGAdMaqp2Gn5mwRDqoT7NdzHiDeqrV51y7wVR8s5vR8_XWeb_796BIC3-M/s320/DSCN2202.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
I realized that this wear was due to an error in the design which resulted in considerable side loads on the guide rod. The piece of metal seen above was welded at an angle that guaranteed that the spring and rod would create excessive forces on the left side of the hole. Compounding things was the placement of the bracket. It is off axis from the ideal location by about 15 degrees. While it works, and has worked for 33 years, it could be better. Therefore I made a new spring retainer which is both better located, and better aligned to remove side forces from the guide rod. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy8WEbeHnkHS9_4DlKDlAaQULEeefjLAU4lqwrv-eXptY4GW2jKeaSNvLfq4X-XRcz-WDVdMCukPfihuzGOc8sdlSSW-MUPDDqztGO53P5VQaxwmGsinuzL2LyLzQhL3Oth0xPO5OGrM0/s1600/DSCN2232.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy8WEbeHnkHS9_4DlKDlAaQULEeefjLAU4lqwrv-eXptY4GW2jKeaSNvLfq4X-XRcz-WDVdMCukPfihuzGOc8sdlSSW-MUPDDqztGO53P5VQaxwmGsinuzL2LyLzQhL3Oth0xPO5OGrM0/s320/DSCN2232.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
This strange looking part is the new spring retainer. The force of the spring wedges it into place, and the screw is there only for insurance.<br />
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It has a pocket for the spring which holds it straight and prevents it from walking. This, combined with the improved location reduce side forces to nearly zero. The forces are so low that I did not replace the worn guide rod, as additional wear is unlikely. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEi2KyJMDZO1UsnJxojWaDw6sZJEvBNWdIDksd1MMkFViddshJon-PxVqtq-CtZuhoOgMTQHwTPRZo2TSBQfWJfwkS6xgvSJ7RyI2vgs3Qgtyt2WCEza0-eDAZlJ2ddb7oaxnL4gbo7cE/s1600/DSCN2231.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEi2KyJMDZO1UsnJxojWaDw6sZJEvBNWdIDksd1MMkFViddshJon-PxVqtq-CtZuhoOgMTQHwTPRZo2TSBQfWJfwkS6xgvSJ7RyI2vgs3Qgtyt2WCEza0-eDAZlJ2ddb7oaxnL4gbo7cE/s320/DSCN2231.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXczDlaoJZ_Jcx-YefA2LJRA5JU9vqZl_62i2jcimSWFZGo-KIHKO5zNHr_NrKWSmmkF936JkaiwPcYN8-ktbZHbWunzH3w5wS9ZMU7pG-AjvkkpLTmBgI7Q08r9SRFfk9QC1PEHSP4-s/s1600/DSCN2237.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXczDlaoJZ_Jcx-YefA2LJRA5JU9vqZl_62i2jcimSWFZGo-KIHKO5zNHr_NrKWSmmkF936JkaiwPcYN8-ktbZHbWunzH3w5wS9ZMU7pG-AjvkkpLTmBgI7Q08r9SRFfk9QC1PEHSP4-s/s320/DSCN2237.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a><br />
A picture of the assembled spring tensioner.<br />
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While the rod exits at an angle relative to the retainer, the spring pocket on the opposite side is milled at this angle, and that is what is important.<br />
There is about 1/4" of clearance between the rod and the tractor frame, which is more than enough.<br />
Please note: The spring is quite powerful and under a lot of compression. Use care when working on it!<br />
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The pulleys are once again straight, and the overhauled mule hitch should last at least as long as the original, if not longer.<br />
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While working on the tractor, I discovered a broken motor mount. I immediately called my local John Deere dealer, and they had mounts in stock! As I previously mentioned, great product support has made me a John Deere fan. I expect everyday parts to be readily available, but rarely replaced parts like motor mounts? That's impressive.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUAn4ABACSs8FbGBuz2icR8hERSxRNs1ASW4aVkTUJXLQl-mo-bR7stAk51nvWdkdrEwjLJ80LvFGqjVk8aoVW2JHL1yzn9NWfsgiOi0IGX_dz1Slp6Xi27Trb-TKiBR_0JONXHhOZWng/s1600/DSCN2229.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUAn4ABACSs8FbGBuz2icR8hERSxRNs1ASW4aVkTUJXLQl-mo-bR7stAk51nvWdkdrEwjLJ80LvFGqjVk8aoVW2JHL1yzn9NWfsgiOi0IGX_dz1Slp6Xi27Trb-TKiBR_0JONXHhOZWng/s320/DSCN2229.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a> <br />
I fixed a few other things while I was at it. The carburetor throttle shaft was also worn, and the engine would no longer idle smoothly or shut off without "dieseling". The ball on the end of the throttle shaft was worn so much that the linkage would fall off. Fortunately, the carburetor has a recess at the top that made it easy to press in a brass bushing, which now supports the shaft on an unworn spot. I cut off the worn ball and replaced it. The engine now idles smoothly, and shuts down properly. If you are experiencing these problems, pay close attention to excess free play of the throttle shaft. It does not take much! I you can feel sideways play in your shaft, you probably have too much. The majority of my wear was on the shaft itself, and not the holes in the carb. It is likely that you could simply purchase a new throttle shaft from John Deere and not have to do what I did. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsUHSABGQzOUkWAzZi_eaaAYoVnAht62rmJ4Jw-eMXnKaUHx6PqgqrXFO57rV6Pjvy03DjBDuDWxKgxoimRwMJvtptKgMeAb3Zkqf2g-KFPgk8g9Z-KWEFRUO7TeI09H1pXruur0jSBKY/s1600/DSCN2242.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsUHSABGQzOUkWAzZi_eaaAYoVnAht62rmJ4Jw-eMXnKaUHx6PqgqrXFO57rV6Pjvy03DjBDuDWxKgxoimRwMJvtptKgMeAb3Zkqf2g-KFPgk8g9Z-KWEFRUO7TeI09H1pXruur0jSBKY/s320/DSCN2242.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a> Finally, the front roller on the mower deck was</div>
also badly worn, as was the shaft it rides on. I made a new shaft, and epoxied brass bushings into the roller. I also added nylon thrust washers and a spacer made from a bored out piece of 1/2" pipe to eliminate side to side play.<br />
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The first run of the tractor after the repairs was a resounding success. The engine starts readily, even at idle setting. It runs smoothly, and no longer shakes excessively, thanks to the new motor mount. The mower deck appeared to run better, easily cutting through the tall grass that had grown while I was making my repairs. It compares favorably to much newer tractors, and is surprisingly economical. The massive single cylinder cast iron Kohler engine burns only 3/4 of a gallon an hour while cutting grass. That is less than a gallon an acre. It runs 6.5 hours on a full tank. Another advantage is that this tractor uses a full size car battery, not a little lawn tractor battery, which has typically lasted me maybe 3 years. I'm still using the Pep Boys battery the previous owner installed 10 years ago!<br />
Unfortunately for John Deere, I may be a fan, but I don't expect to be replacing my tractor anytime soon.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEn1PMyzlcFhhMJ08uQOUbN9s3Yf2oKmVD2gc-vMF5yMUsw4hDLtbJb6No1oY1Xz0hOZEIdaMKDWbnPuLW6rt50PM-VRszCshc72cknUqpmef4jVelNvmU2j6r7iCm0GqUpyr5DukxCAI/s1600/DSCN3579.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEn1PMyzlcFhhMJ08uQOUbN9s3Yf2oKmVD2gc-vMF5yMUsw4hDLtbJb6No1oY1Xz0hOZEIdaMKDWbnPuLW6rt50PM-VRszCshc72cknUqpmef4jVelNvmU2j6r7iCm0GqUpyr5DukxCAI/s320/DSCN3579.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a>Update: I removed my deck and put it away for the season. My overhauled hitch now has two seasons of use, and while it is dirty, there is no wear on the repaired parts. The shaft is as tight as when I made the repair. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0njOVnxUVmvIwzyum69w7ovczUbe-6zoTuy3bEjfZAQ3o3m_vBYXb9C1bdkwgo0Eg3c3-L4RQi3K2E4gHt5Be3SSKlitaEWdQXqk82Ufoy0-Cst06HOzBxaTVNSPlYdTuGETyPlOYVw0/s1600/DSCN3577.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0njOVnxUVmvIwzyum69w7ovczUbe-6zoTuy3bEjfZAQ3o3m_vBYXb9C1bdkwgo0Eg3c3-L4RQi3K2E4gHt5Be3SSKlitaEWdQXqk82Ufoy0-Cst06HOzBxaTVNSPlYdTuGETyPlOYVw0/s320/DSCN3577.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha5dN7coeHk9tZB2PoaHrMeodfcTTOIx0k_0SuEuJApHpj-54311-tEN3lXdCqNOkjL42lXP1l9_TwE6jvvEcKh5kbMExIqQyyakAs45S11exqSPlgCJjhnvrM6zY722V_9afbizZMBnc/s1600/DSCN3578.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha5dN7coeHk9tZB2PoaHrMeodfcTTOIx0k_0SuEuJApHpj-54311-tEN3lXdCqNOkjL42lXP1l9_TwE6jvvEcKh5kbMExIqQyyakAs45S11exqSPlgCJjhnvrM6zY722V_9afbizZMBnc/s320/DSCN3578.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a> If you install a plow with a hydraulic angle piston, that piston is connected to the same hydraulic lines as the deck lift piston. For the angle piston to work properly, the deck piston has to be immobilized. I have seen this done by putting a manual valve on the inlet line to the lift piston. When using the plow, the operator reaches under the tractor and closes the valve. I find this to be an overly complicated fix to a simple problem. Here is my solution. I took a piece of steel and drilled two holes in it 14 1/2 inches apart. One hole is 1/2 inch and the other is 3/8 inch. Put the half inch hole in the mower deck attach point, and use a 3/8 inch bolt to attach the steel bar to the 3/8 inch hole in the deck lift shaft. Your deck height knob must be screwed all the way down, as seen here.<br />
The piston now cannot move more than 1/8 of an inch. Much easier and cheaper than the hydraulic valve idea.<br />
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Here are links to my <a href="http://robertsprojects.blogspot.com/2013/03/kohler-k341-engine-overhaul.html" target="_blank">Kohler K341 engine overhaul</a> and my <a href="http://robertsprojects.blogspot.com/2011/07/john-deere-300-316-mower-deck-rebuild.html" target="_blank">Mower Deck Rebuild</a>.<br />
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I have now added a Harbor Freight winch to the rear of the tractor. <a href="http://robertsprojects.blogspot.com/2014/02/installing-harbor-freight-winch-on-my.html">You can read about that here.</a><br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7412846647818539522.post-37030914744233915132011-03-20T18:04:00.000-07:002013-04-30T04:35:15.464-07:00Mini Mill Upgrade. Adding a Larger Table<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJVvUxIdDCue5aahHdViapfzVxnkH2Qcuap6X1Y29MzBVzO1ijlSn9B9kh-EyVcQMXyoH1TJat8YV_sJ7C34kRb8D1sPD_NMe2WSC1eYaZlaA0gl5SpRSbI2Fvkv5EL5w-Vup0ASZrgvg/s1600/DSCN2111.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJVvUxIdDCue5aahHdViapfzVxnkH2Qcuap6X1Y29MzBVzO1ijlSn9B9kh-EyVcQMXyoH1TJat8YV_sJ7C34kRb8D1sPD_NMe2WSC1eYaZlaA0gl5SpRSbI2Fvkv5EL5w-Vup0ASZrgvg/s400/DSCN2111.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
I just added an enlarged table to my Mini Mill, bought from Little Machine Shop (where else?). When I acquired my Mini Mill, I soon discovered one of it's major shortcomings. The small table had too much flexibility in the Y direction. I found this to be more of a problem than the often mentioned column flexibility. To give you an idea just how much larger this table, here are the two side by side.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhMPYCps48NkmbrfyWibzyWSJrTGn6X-Q3uVix6vq0D3APzy9QamqkfJZ9WHfmESjXY496jH6gnXqfp1jKCRfv7CrNjnaOgol3c-MvB7BPwtn1qNC15W8ci3RFPA9f9v_WoZJn-L-3alU/s1600/DSCN2112.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhMPYCps48NkmbrfyWibzyWSJrTGn6X-Q3uVix6vq0D3APzy9QamqkfJZ9WHfmESjXY496jH6gnXqfp1jKCRfv7CrNjnaOgol3c-MvB7BPwtn1qNC15W8ci3RFPA9f9v_WoZJn-L-3alU/s320/DSCN2112.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Among other improvements, the feed screw is supported at both ends, while the old table's screw is only supported at the handwheel end. In the upper left of the picture is the new table's end cap with brass bushing. Perhaps most important, the saddle is much wider and has 4 gib adjusting screws, instead of only 2. I believe that contributed to the lack of stiffness in the old design.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicINAC-xv_1WGfdDdRdf46lE6_QQhgVkUpOspg6UeHgi3A6J407_JCFWXvuRDx0qzGfWeMX65_1SVYKhgAfk1lFmynN14oBmQ49VTiiinILSGpgx3g_UblKSwyVB0_MnuDOnn6s41fNfU/s1600/DSCN2113.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicINAC-xv_1WGfdDdRdf46lE6_QQhgVkUpOspg6UeHgi3A6J407_JCFWXvuRDx0qzGfWeMX65_1SVYKhgAfk1lFmynN14oBmQ49VTiiinILSGpgx3g_UblKSwyVB0_MnuDOnn6s41fNfU/s320/DSCN2113.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The whole assembly weighs 20 pounds more than the original, and it is noticeable. The "mini" mill no longer feels so mini anymore. It is far stiffer, and the 20 TPI feed screw feels more precise than the old 16 TPI one. I highly recommend this mod, and if you are considering buying a mini mill, I would not buy one without this table. The LMS High Torque Mill comes with this table and a powerful new motor.</div>
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Below. My upgraded mill. The 4 inch vise no longer looks out of proportion, as it did on the smaller table. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXo7hi3EsOmCylbq0n2PZOnjHolFPu2UOTHxgm4thwgJMGvxkFqoq6RpqfWxodFuwcz1d524Da8dtJzlPEqraQWP7riFGp3CaSfEacjubFI9l7rfPtnZzTfLDbsn40e49HSQu7NtTkDQM/s1600/DSCN2157.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXo7hi3EsOmCylbq0n2PZOnjHolFPu2UOTHxgm4thwgJMGvxkFqoq6RpqfWxodFuwcz1d524Da8dtJzlPEqraQWP7riFGp3CaSfEacjubFI9l7rfPtnZzTfLDbsn40e49HSQu7NtTkDQM/s320/DSCN2157.JPG" width="238" /> </a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwsQMbbozTAsQEkUDCibYKNq6BAu6FU2hLC6VQyBW9feOoS2SsNctNEs-1pBj82Til5QbwYEovjNkiHvNGLsWuUeZnCmEu4AoVy0EOPTijoH6hlWKCdMYpykD5e5Fl7l1hvUwAlXxquy4/s1600/DSCN2155.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwsQMbbozTAsQEkUDCibYKNq6BAu6FU2hLC6VQyBW9feOoS2SsNctNEs-1pBj82Til5QbwYEovjNkiHvNGLsWuUeZnCmEu4AoVy0EOPTijoH6hlWKCdMYpykD5e5Fl7l1hvUwAlXxquy4/s320/DSCN2155.JPG" width="320" /></a>Swapping the scales to the new table was a breeze, thanks to T nut slot on the front face. The front T slot is much smaller than the standard sized slots on the table, so I made my own T nuts, with 8-32 threaded holes. While the scales may appear to be inadequately protected, they have held up well, and have performed flawlessly for over a year to date. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ-8U3DpSaz2-qZdxE1T1OKeaT4i7xKu3nyp8219nK5Qfku3F3qosKSv5IQSlwIma9Rn8RvARyQFmZ6MWxD-5crvwkjcLoydS-h-JeBIAjrJt20jLjoN7k9WRlDq2tk0CmSs8PXdVtiuA/s1600/DSCN2177.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ-8U3DpSaz2-qZdxE1T1OKeaT4i7xKu3nyp8219nK5Qfku3F3qosKSv5IQSlwIma9Rn8RvARyQFmZ6MWxD-5crvwkjcLoydS-h-JeBIAjrJt20jLjoN7k9WRlDq2tk0CmSs8PXdVtiuA/s200/DSCN2177.JPG" width="200" /></a> All mini mill tables lack a decent thrust bearing on the Y axis, and the axis on my original table seized up one day. I fixed that by adding a bronze bushing where the spalling took place. I had to use a bushing, for there is not enough room there for a bearing. I machined a recess in the shaft retainer for the bushing. It is a big improvement, but only works in the direction of the table traveling away from the operator. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJNo8VRu2cQHbJucaInpPrJSrpOWXvtx280cR9HPqIIatrizb0BtQ5ws9MG0IKOxc1v0YaexfbzwUm7DCOYwLYW3GDYMhU4VISTdrC7vnxqFS15UqNgSvZ_65a80j5nCvZFzA66gjapxA/s1600/DSCN2172.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJNo8VRu2cQHbJucaInpPrJSrpOWXvtx280cR9HPqIIatrizb0BtQ5ws9MG0IKOxc1v0YaexfbzwUm7DCOYwLYW3GDYMhU4VISTdrC7vnxqFS15UqNgSvZ_65a80j5nCvZFzA66gjapxA/s200/DSCN2172.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
Thrust loads in the other direction are carried by the handwheel, where it contacts the shaft retainer. Again, it is simply steel rubbing against steel. Here there is room for a real thrust bearing, and Enco sells some inexpensive, and very thin bearings. The one I used is a 1/2" ID (12.7mm) bearing, but that is not critical, for the shaft retainer handles the radial load. What is important is that the recess in the retainer is accurately aligned, for that is what keeps the bearing in alignment.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHQ9kMHImlhdSJnntj7l1P8p5wCPumojY9RNxu13ZVccuYcSbmJTl-KT6UXEsrv7fI7fGpBOrEIQzrdx873-WJv3rWsXgngL6yMJQZHN-LWrRvQz_qnSIIBlCuebh88iyWaIslg0IFee4/s1600/DSCN2170.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHQ9kMHImlhdSJnntj7l1P8p5wCPumojY9RNxu13ZVccuYcSbmJTl-KT6UXEsrv7fI7fGpBOrEIQzrdx873-WJv3rWsXgngL6yMJQZHN-LWrRvQz_qnSIIBlCuebh88iyWaIslg0IFee4/s200/DSCN2170.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
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Here is where a 4 jaw independent chuck and dial indicator are essential. Do not trust the outside diameter. I found my shaft hole was slightly off center relative to the OD of the retainer.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVKrGjQ1qSfTH_EFCrE3a4tEbzU_VyLwVzb4LvoExjQHPqxnpHP4DAjsiVjybNn6YW0HKBNFr0YgAKRXZLSCcjU_GjvwvUivrgZu4XuL91qekYzMKrB26XYzlXy33R4MN1y9tMa-VdqLQ/s1600/IMG_0187.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVKrGjQ1qSfTH_EFCrE3a4tEbzU_VyLwVzb4LvoExjQHPqxnpHP4DAjsiVjybNn6YW0HKBNFr0YgAKRXZLSCcjU_GjvwvUivrgZu4XuL91qekYzMKrB26XYzlXy33R4MN1y9tMa-VdqLQ/s200/IMG_0187.JPG" width="149" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ70IbD0cd0IzxTHnXtwha91ugS6J2c4Uym1OONI4LggvBN750Y8DAh0FdbODushCDA-wIXE4w-elpnDDyhYYfXM3Lb5kJQNCVYaIpiFKiAvd37HLOQuQQ9f0TPH7eaA5cr-m6J6zviao/s1600/IMG_0186.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ70IbD0cd0IzxTHnXtwha91ugS6J2c4Uym1OONI4LggvBN750Y8DAh0FdbODushCDA-wIXE4w-elpnDDyhYYfXM3Lb5kJQNCVYaIpiFKiAvd37HLOQuQQ9f0TPH7eaA5cr-m6J6zviao/s200/IMG_0186.JPG" width="200" /></a> I am very pleased with the results. I can now set the thrust bearing at zero clearance, which was not possible before. That removed some of the backlash in the Y direction. When moving the table towards the operator, it is nearly effortless, thanks to the roller bearing. More effort is required to move the table when the bronze bushing is taking the load, but it is a great improvement over the original setup.<br />
Here is my solution to the lock nut problem. Rather than replace the lock nut pair with a nylon insert nut, I made a small wrench that fits inside the handwheel. This wrench wedges itself inside the handwheel, making it possible to tighten the outer nut without the inner nut moving. It is very effective and never loosens. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyA0SlJXQS40zIwdciVsAbsPBF3TGF3FXakQ2KzEQztnLx20UUhQU3dt4DuFHNKscv-AK0PC8zOR75r5WSzB_RiNz5YV8ivZ9Kp6oGPlR9WL3KglRqxyuc61rcPPibbVo22a8NJ2d_quA/s1600/IMG_0188.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyA0SlJXQS40zIwdciVsAbsPBF3TGF3FXakQ2KzEQztnLx20UUhQU3dt4DuFHNKscv-AK0PC8zOR75r5WSzB_RiNz5YV8ivZ9Kp6oGPlR9WL3KglRqxyuc61rcPPibbVo22a8NJ2d_quA/s200/IMG_0188.JPG" width="200" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj84qYOvmfLrNYOt_l2S-Ju4BOFAtc4U7uMxHxOAqx1DxNuqgEavQRMzicJUEpixQoIRqPdeqLIFWSYz9sFb3QNhJqM42lH4pi4IjSXoKIjZJy5HV_vkkUu0Tp28lbRu1YGncw0IYAt_zU/s1600/IMG_0189.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj84qYOvmfLrNYOt_l2S-Ju4BOFAtc4U7uMxHxOAqx1DxNuqgEavQRMzicJUEpixQoIRqPdeqLIFWSYz9sFb3QNhJqM42lH4pi4IjSXoKIjZJy5HV_vkkUu0Tp28lbRu1YGncw0IYAt_zU/s200/IMG_0189.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
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Here is something that was not possible with the original table: A 4 inch vise, and a 4 inch rotary table with 5 inch chuck mounted on the table at the same time.<br />
I moved my trusty Shumatech 350 to the lathe and installed a 550 on the mill. The 550 remembers 10 workspaces, which means I can store separate zero values for the vise and rotary table.<br />
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Update: <a href="http://robertsprojects.blogspot.com/2013/04/mini-mill-solid-column-conversion.html"> I have now upgraded to a solid column, click here</a>.<br />
<a href="http://robertsprojects.blogspot.com/2010/02/mini-mill-modifications-shumatech-dro.html">For my DRO installation, click here. </a><br />
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